I repaired that leak 5 years ago with success but you're better off replacing the pump at this point.
the leak was bad but never prevented a start.
another possible location for the pem is passenger footwell behind the kick panel near the door hinge.
2004 XC70 no start - faulty fuel pump and/or electrical connections? Topic is solved
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enotslim
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Did you do the JB-Weld marine epoxy repair (shown here viewtopic.php?t=91717) with success? Could be a temporary fix until replacement.
Now:
2004 XC70
Then:
1972 144
1988 240 Wagon
1998 V70 T5
2004 XC70
Then:
1972 144
1988 240 Wagon
1998 V70 T5
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goldxc70
- Posts: 65
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I started to smell gas in the car weeks before my pump problem showed itself. When I did remove the old pump, there was nothing to suggest how the gas smell got into the car. I seem to remember reading on some forum that a smell of gas in the car was an indication of a failing fuel pump.enotslim wrote: ↑29 Sep 2023, 23:44 ...
My question here is: could this leak be related to the failure to start that began this thread? Or are they just coincidental? The leak is recent so I don’t think it’s a direct cause. Could failed starts and the leak be related to some underlying issue?
The pump will be replaced soon regardless.
- jonesg
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nylon expands and contracts more than metal.
the pump still pumps but leaks out the cracked top plate.
after 20 years its probably near worn out anyway, if mine leaks again I'll replace it.
the pump still pumps but leaks out the cracked top plate.
after 20 years its probably near worn out anyway, if mine leaks again I'll replace it.
- abscate
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I am going to say a strong no here. Remember you had the top of the pump under inspection for wiring problems up thread, if you lost enough fuel pressure for a no start due to leaking, you would have been working in raw gas at that timeenotslim wrote: ↑29 Sep 2023, 23:44 OP Update: Car continues to start without fail. Changed fuel filter 2 weeks ago. An initial hesitation when starting persisted for several days, long after the fuel line should have been fully primed. I thought this was odd but it always started. Starting is now back to normal. However, I soon noticed a fuel smell in interior. Discovered the top of the fuel pump is leaking. I am pursuing replacement by a dealer under the recall for this failure (NHTSA PE09-039, see also viewtopic.php?t=25517&start=10) but without much hope for success dono's despite experience recounted at the link. I will install a new fuel pump myself if the dealer won’t do it under recall.
My question here is: could this leak be related to the failure to start that began this thread? Or are they just coincidental? The leak is recent so I don’t think it’s a direct cause. Could failed starts and the leak be related to some underlying issue?
The pump will be replaced soon regardless.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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enotslim
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Finally! After 6 months of prefect behavior the car finally failed to start yesterday, with very strong cranking, reproducing the issue that initiated this thread. In my driveway with the tank half full. Removed the rear seat and fuel pump electrical plug to discover the pump is receiving a ~1-second 12-volt burst (actually 11.8 V) at ignition - but doesn't pump. Simplifies things enormously.
However, and oddly, cruise control also stopped working on Tuesday, numerous codes are now present that were not there last week, and I saw for the first time ever the message "IMMOBILIZER SEE MANUAL". (Two different keys that both worked last week now fail to start.)
Current new codes:
ECM-9400 Brake pedal sensor: Signal too high
ECM-4007 EVAP system ; Signal too low
REM-8D11 High mounted stop lamp ; Faulty signal
BCM-0012 Wheel sensor, left front ; Mechanical error
BCM-0011 Wheel sensor, left front ; Faulty signal
BCM-0103 Pedal position sensor ; Faulty signal
BCM-0065 Stop (brake) lamp switch ; Signal outside its permitted range
CCM-0021 Air quality sensor ; Internal fault
Are all these errors/codes just coincidental? I don't think they're real. Is it possible that some electrical aberration disabled several components/systems, including the fuel pump itself, in a reversible manner? I ask because I had numerous unexplainable codes during previous no-start episodes but I have had none for months (without fixing anything relevant to the codes). And now everything "fails" all at once. The fuel pump failure has been reversible through 3 or 4 cycles of this stuff.
During the past six months I've had explainable codes for the headlight level sensor and a blown headlight ballast. Both conditions were repaired/replaced, codes cleared and I was code-free. A code for left front ABS resolved when I fixed a leak in the exhaust flex pipe. That was a strange association/coincidence but the ABS error remains gone. Otherwise I've been code-free until this week when the fuel pump failed and everything else above happened.
Removing the pump now seems inevitable but I don't want to replace it and have the same failure occur. Is there some component of the pump (disassembled) I can examine for reversible failure?
Finally, is there some way to remove fuel from the half-full tank so it doesn't spill when the fuel pump is removed. Dealers must have a way to prevent spillage.
Thanks.
However, and oddly, cruise control also stopped working on Tuesday, numerous codes are now present that were not there last week, and I saw for the first time ever the message "IMMOBILIZER SEE MANUAL". (Two different keys that both worked last week now fail to start.)
Current new codes:
ECM-9400 Brake pedal sensor: Signal too high
ECM-4007 EVAP system ; Signal too low
REM-8D11 High mounted stop lamp ; Faulty signal
BCM-0012 Wheel sensor, left front ; Mechanical error
BCM-0011 Wheel sensor, left front ; Faulty signal
BCM-0103 Pedal position sensor ; Faulty signal
BCM-0065 Stop (brake) lamp switch ; Signal outside its permitted range
CCM-0021 Air quality sensor ; Internal fault
Are all these errors/codes just coincidental? I don't think they're real. Is it possible that some electrical aberration disabled several components/systems, including the fuel pump itself, in a reversible manner? I ask because I had numerous unexplainable codes during previous no-start episodes but I have had none for months (without fixing anything relevant to the codes). And now everything "fails" all at once. The fuel pump failure has been reversible through 3 or 4 cycles of this stuff.
During the past six months I've had explainable codes for the headlight level sensor and a blown headlight ballast. Both conditions were repaired/replaced, codes cleared and I was code-free. A code for left front ABS resolved when I fixed a leak in the exhaust flex pipe. That was a strange association/coincidence but the ABS error remains gone. Otherwise I've been code-free until this week when the fuel pump failed and everything else above happened.
Removing the pump now seems inevitable but I don't want to replace it and have the same failure occur. Is there some component of the pump (disassembled) I can examine for reversible failure?
Finally, is there some way to remove fuel from the half-full tank so it doesn't spill when the fuel pump is removed. Dealers must have a way to prevent spillage.
Thanks.
Last edited by enotslim on 21 Apr 2024, 17:47, edited 3 times in total.
Now:
2004 XC70
Then:
1972 144
1988 240 Wagon
1998 V70 T5
2004 XC70
Then:
1972 144
1988 240 Wagon
1998 V70 T5
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6222
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You can empty some/most? fuel tanks using a small tube into the fuel filler tube. The tube must be about 3/8 inch or smaller to get it worked past the anti syphon flapper in the tube. If it gets stuck, twist, push and pull to work it loose. A hard nylon tube has worked best for me. Soft rubber will not get to the bottom of the tank. You will not be able to see where the tube goes, so you must twist and push the tube until you can pump out fuel.
There are small hand crank pumps that work, but are slow. You could also set up an electric replacement fuel pump to do the work of pumping out of the filler tube.
volvolugnut
There are small hand crank pumps that work, but are slow. You could also set up an electric replacement fuel pump to do the work of pumping out of the filler tube.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- erikv11
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I use this cheap siphon rig, works well on P2 cars (S60, V70, XC70 01-07). Just did an S60 fuel pump with it this weekend. The nylon tubing I just had laying around, not sure the dimensions, but 7/16 OD x 1/4 ID is close. With the tubing cut to an angle on the input end, the point slips right past the flapper mentioned by volvolugnut.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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