1998 V70XC burning oil and crank no start

[scot850]

Long extensions running back beyond the VC unit is the way to get those out.

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

Long extensions running back beyond the VC unit is the way to get those out.

Neil.

I think 99-00 might be different from 98, I was barely able to get an extension up into that area, I couldn't get anything into place with a socket on the end of it. I tried a crows foot wrench on the driver's side upper bolt, but it just started spreading apart once I started putting lots of force on it.

I didn't end up needing to take it out to get this pipe out of the car, but getting whatever I end up using to repair will require some planning.

[scot850]

Done it on 98,99 and 00. It works for all of them. Drop the front VC mount first though. If you find it tight, use 3/8" drive sockets.

Neil.

[abscate]

I ended up,with about 36 inches of extensions to get one of them on the Kat

[jsrnsis]

Done it on 98,99 and 00. It works for all of them. Drop the front VC mount first though. If you find it tight, use 3/8" drive sockets.

Neil.

I ended up,with about 36 inches of extensions to get one of them on the Kat

I'm definitely keeping that info for later, but I got the repair hose in by prying the tank down and pulling it up from the top using fish tape. Very short section of 150 psi nylon braided fuel injection hose, double oetiker clamped onto a 5/16 barb compression fitting on the steel tube from the fuel pump.
I was actually only test fitting it when it fell into place, I was expecting to need to cut a lot more steel pipe off to be able to get the repair back into place, and I forgot to take a picture of it before it went in. I covered the pipe in por15, and placed a piece of foam over the compression fitting and oetiker clamps so they wouldn't rub on anything.

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Now that the car is running, and so far no leaks, I'm on to the engine clacking..... It's almost impossible to diagnose tapping, knocking, clicking noises over the internet, they all sound the same.

Anyways here's my noise. Recap: Car having what I believe was low fuel pressure, parked it, tried starting it many times, came back with a trailer, tried starting it again, car "backfired" (blew out rear cam seals that were already leaking, smoke poured out of the rear cam seals, and under intake manifold, hard to remember), now that its running its clacking, which it wasnt doing when i turned it off in that parking lot. I looked with a bore scope and there's no obvious valve to piston contact.

[abscate]

Blew out exhaust manifold gasket maybe ? It sounds a bit loud for lifters but that will go away in 10-15 minutes at idle

[jsrnsis]

Blew out exhaust manifold gasket maybe ? It sounds a bit loud for lifters but that will go away in 10-15 minutes at idle

This seems to be it, I unplugged the fuel pump relay and coil wire and spun the engine over on the starter. Since I already cut the exhaust downstream of the cat, I think I can undo the exhaust manifold bolts and unhook the turbo coolant and oil hoses and scoot the manifold back enough to get a new 1 piece gasket in.

[abscate]

Diagnosis..if you inject some Seafoam into the vacuum line the resultant smoke plume should show if the exhaust manifold is blown.

Turbo removal isn’t too bad if the bolts are in decent shape, same with manifold. Pulling for you !

[jsrnsis]

Took the exhaust manifold off and pulled the gaskets out and found one broken piece.

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This could have also been from me having to really work and twist to get them out due to the RTV that was liberally applied to keep them stuck on the head during installation.

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I thought it was odd but not impossible that the gaskets would be changed on a car with 155k miles, but finding these heat tabs show it was a replacement engine, or at least a replacement head.

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So not wanting to get into removing the manifold from the car and dealing with exhaust and turbo flange bolts I decided to take the head out and also deal with the oil burning and smoke problem that I think is the valve stem seals.
Of course nothing is straightforward on this car so I ran into an issue and snapped one of the head bolts. It broke after it cracked loose once, and then before the second crack loose it snapped right at where the threads in the block start.

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Reason I thought it was valve stem seals is that I stuck a bore scope into all the cylinders, and in cylinder 2 there was what looked like oil drops right under the exhaust valves, which had been sitting open in this cylinder.
So for now I have PBlaster soaking in the bolt hole and I'm planning on finding some tube that sits in the bolt hole tightly and holds a drill bit nice and straight.

[jsrnsis]

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That's a good feeling.