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2002 Volvo V70 X/C Starting Issues

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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lucassitterly
Posts: 6
Joined: 9 October 2023
Year and Model: 2002 V70 X/C
Location: Maine, USA
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2002 Volvo V70 X/C Starting Issues

Post by lucassitterly »

Hello! First time poster, looking for help from the V70 community on trying to figure out a recent issue plaguing my 2002 V70 X/C (US model). It recently was having trouble turning over and starting, that would resolve itself after a few cranks. Once running there was no issue and no code. Eventually the car in running mode would show the code for the crankshaft sensor. However after replacing it, the car will now no longer turn over at all, and again, no codes.

Steps taken:
- Replaced the immobilizer antenna https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 90-8621509 on the ignition.
- Replaced the crankshaft sensor https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... i-31331765.
- Replaced the starter motor https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-850-c70-s4 ... 90996/2002.
- Checked all the fuses, none blown.
- New manifold pressure sensor https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0261230029.

I've also tried the different methods of resetting the immobilizer antenna, and waiting with the car in the on position for 15 seconds prior to cranking it with no luck.

Video of the car attempting to start.https://photos.app.goo.gl/2wZoyjeKBEbLEXbD7

I replaced the coils and plugs approximately 3 years ago, so that shouldn't be an issue. Another thing to check that I've seen online is the fuel pump relay. I'm questioning if it's getting power, because it sounds the same when trying to start with the relay in or out.

I see a lot of people have had this issue on other boards, but I'm not finding anyone providing what their solution was. Basically I feel like this shouldn't be this hard of an issue to figure out, but I am weary of dumping more money into this if this is in fact an issue that is going to cost $2k+ to fix as I've already dumped a few hundred plus the time installing everything.

My next steps are replacing the fuel pump relay (which again, not sure if it's getting power or not). And then I'm out of ideas. If anyone has had this happen to them and has a fix, please let me know!

enotslim
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Year and Model: 2004 XC70
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Post by enotslim »

A question after viewing your video ... shouldn't the engine turnover much faster, even without starting, if the battery and starter are working properly?
Now:
2004 XC70
Then:
1972 144
1988 240 Wagon
1998 V70 T5

lucassitterly
Posts: 6
Joined: 9 October 2023
Year and Model: 2002 V70 X/C
Location: Maine, USA
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Post by lucassitterly »

enotslim wrote: 09 Oct 2023, 07:56 A question after viewing your video ... shouldn't the engine turnover much faster, even without starting, if the battery and starter are working properly?
Yes, could be because of how many times we've been trying to start it unsuccessfully over the last 2 weeks. I'll top off the battery later to see if that helps.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

if the car got worse after replacing the crank sensor I would reinstall the original.

why did you replace the immobilizer ring.
what led you to to diagnose that part.
are you just guessing ?
do you have vida ?

do you hear the fuel pump prime when ignition is turned on, it should be a quiet hum from the back seat.
is there a schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail.?

do the fuel injectors click during cranking.?

got spark ?, pull a plug and ground it ,

where in maine are you.

lucassitterly
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Post by lucassitterly »

So, just got home, had my father charge the battery, when he hooked it up it was at 35%. When it got to 100%, I tried starting it with the same results as before.

Regarding the new questions from jonesg, I tried the immobilizer ring because it was a common theme I found on forums because at the time the car was having trouble but would eventually start. A lot of people said their immobilizer rings would go bad and causing the car to shut off when trying to start it. Figured like the easiest place to start.

There is a Schrader valve on the rail. Pressed it in just now and there is fuel present.

Going to check on the fuel pump sound in a few and will update.

I don't have a Vida, will have to look that up, guessing it's a diagnostic tool? I have a code reader, which again currently isn't showing anything.

I'll also try testing the plugs and update as well.

Beautiful Ellsworth in Down East Maine.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

yes vida is the computer diagnostic program dealerships use, its better and cheaper than the parts cannon.
if you have a laptop w/ 8mb ram you can get vida on an external usb thumb drive, add a jrl cable and you're good.
https://diaglaptops.com/wp/dice-units/

a cheap pencil tire pressure gauge can be used to read fuel pressure at the rail , it will ruin the gauge but they only cost $3.
fuel pump primes for 2 seconds, 50 psi would be good.

lucassitterly
Posts: 6
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Post by lucassitterly »

Thank you jonesg, I reached out to Dave and ordered a ViDA setup. Checked last night when I got home and the fuel pump is running when putting the car into the on position. I'm going to go ahead and take a break from trying to diagnose this until the ViDA arrives in order to keep my sanity. I'll also try putting the original sensor back in this weekend.

I'll let you know what the ViDA says once it's up and running. Thank you for your help!

lucassitterly
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Post by lucassitterly »

Ok @jonesg, thank you for introducing me to Dave, great guy and got my ViDA and cable Saturday. Hooked it all up on Sunday and ran the ViDA2014 All in One and ran the scan. Got a bunch of codes I hadn't gotten prior regarding small things, that were not important. The only one that really stood out was ECM-3100.

Now, the other thing I noticed, is since we replaced the crankshaft sensor the battery is constantly draining itself. My father charged it up again yesterdays then disconnected it. My thought is that when he was replacing the crankshaft sensor, he bundled a bunch of the wires and hoses together to wedge them out of the way, and I think he may have inadvertently cut, or exposed one of the wires which is now making contact and draining the battery, which is preventing me from being able to actively find the underlying issue (before replacing the sensor it would eventually turn over).

If I can find the offending wire, then I think next step might be to change the camshaft sensor, which looks like it may be a pita.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

ecm3100 is very likely the problem, including the parasitic draw.
the cam and crank signals have to match.
i would disconnect the pos terminal and run a meter between the post and cable, monitor the draw as you poke around.
ignition off, rear door closed, let the computer go to sleep...then go ahead and watch the meter whilst poking the harness and plugs.

lucassitterly
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Post by lucassitterly »

Sorry for the delay, I had a rough week. Was laid off, so have been trying to focus on getting that duck back in a row. I do have some updates.

- Put the original crankshaft sensor in, still no turn over, installed the new camshaft sensor, same issue, although, the ECM3100 code is now gone.

- Sprayed carb fluid down the air intake while trying to crank, and no spark.

- Read somewhere else that resetting the CEM can resolve issues, was about to pull it out then read leaving the battery unplugged for 10+ min and rewiring does the same thing. So that isn't it.

- Ran VIDA again and am showing the below under Initial State:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sNSDzCLurLVCsvQV6

And this is under Unselected State:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YJVps4qDHe8MPpB27

I tried going through some of the other menu's but wasn't able to really find anything additional. Unless anything looks obvious to you guys, I may just have to take it to the dealer :(

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