Strut bearing replacement 2003 XC 70.

[Blacklab467]

Recently there's been some inquiry into how to disassemble struts and if it's safe or whether or not to just go with pre assembled "quick struts". I've replaced my struts and springs and spring seats a couple years ago and had only to do the strut bearings so I decided to do it this morning and document the procedure for those interested in replacing their own strut components.
The total job took 1 1/2 hours working with hand tools from start to finish, although I didn't have to replace the strut or spring, I would budget another hour if you are replacing these components also. Additionally, all my fasteners are fairly new and well coated with anti seize from previous disassembly, your time and experience with rusty fasteners may differ. I purchased a lock type spring compressor from Princess Auto ( Harbor Freight in USA ) for about $60.

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I always like to have company in the garage for moral support!
Jack the car up and remove the front wheels, have the wheels pointing straight ahead.

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Remove the two strut to knuckle nuts (18mm) leave the bolts in for now. Also remove the 10mm bolt for the ABS sensor and move the sensor out of the way.

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With a T-40 and 18mm wrench, remove the upper stabilizer link, the nut may come off easier with an impact wrench without holding the ball shaft with the Torx. It may be necessary to pry down lightly on the stabilizer bar to remove the link from the bore in the strut body. Next remove the 3 13mm nuts from the strut tower, inside the engine bay. I would save these Volvo nuts and reuse them if you are installing aftermarket parts where the metallurgy is poor. I would highly discourage using aftermarket or off brand parts in this application.

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With the strut completely detached from all mounting points, push down on the hub with your foot while supporting the strut, maneuver the bottom of the strut forward and down between the Lower Control Arm and the hydraulic brake line. Use caution to ensure the bottom of the strut body doesn't come to rest on or damage your outer CV boot. Once the top of the strut has cleared the wheel housing, you can remove it up and out, then safety wire the knuckle to the ABS sensor bracket to prevent CV joint hyperextension.

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With the strut on the workbench, you can position the spring compressors on the spring, ideally 180 degrees opposite each other. I like to put the bottom end in the vise before compressing the spring.

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With the spring compressed adequately, remove the 21mm nut on the end, you'll have to hold the strut shaft with a T-40 while you loosen the nut. Once that nut is off, there is a star shaped nut to remove to separate the coil spring from the strut. Once this is removed, the caged spring is no longer contained by the strut body. Inspect the spring seat for replacement. I replaced mine with XC 90 seats from Volvo, they are more robust than the XC 70 ones.
Replace the required components and reassemble, as mentioned I only had to replace the strut bearings today as the other parts were done recently. Also replace the strut to knuckle bolts as these are one time use only. Camber can be measured and adjusted once back together or take the vehicle to an alignment shop.........I do mine myself but some may prefer to have it done for them.
Reinstallation of the strut assembly is the reverse of removal. Torque components as follows:
Strut top nut 52 lbs/feet
Strut to knuckle 77 lbs/feet plus 90 degrees
3 top strut tower nuts 18 lbs/feet
Stabilizer bar end link top 60 lbs/feet
ABS sensor 7 lbs/feet

[MoVolvos]

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Started with the rear Monroe air shocks in the 78 Cougar XR7. Tried a pair of rear Monroe Load Adjusting Shock (Coil Over Shocks) on the 03 Odyssey to recent KONI front struts in the P1 08 C30 T5, I've never had a smooth replacement experience as yours.

On the 05 GS430 the loaner compressor from Advance similar to yours got bent. The most recent S70 rear shocks were better but with the spring replacement it was not as straight forward. The S70 front springs looks very compressed with quite a few number of coils, not looking forward to that coming up. The worse thus far has been the spreading and inserting of the strut into the P1 steering knuckle.

There were a lot of other cars and problems along the way but glad yours went so smoothly!

As far I can tell from all the Volvos owned so far there are no camber adjustments. Any would be from the slop between the strut mount holes to the steering knuckle. For the first time I've purchased a set of adjustable camber bolts which I'll try on the S70 coming up.
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2000 Volvo S70 Front 2 Piece Alignment Camber Kit TRQ PSA60166
https://www.1aauto.com/2-piece-alignmen ... 03718/2000
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You pay in full for the item first and after returning you'll get full refund when using their tool loaner program. Most have been new as they replace them frequently to reduce liability issues. Bent one and damaged the threads on another occasion and noted that with them. May not be a good brand.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/pow ... OR+9150042
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Advance no longer show these online but they were difficult to use, having tried them twice.
(www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Spring-Compressor- ... 5653?psc=1)
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[Blacklab467]

I've had good success with the spring compressor I bought although it's a Chinese made unit, heavy with lots of iron and the threaded compressor has a large diameter threaded shaft and a 21mm bolt head. Handling the caged spring is a little unnerving, I actually wear a full face dirt bike helmet and goggles for this part.
I don't know for sure if there is actually provisions for camber adjustment, the lower knuckle bolt bore is round to accept the bolt, the upper one is oblong, allowing for what I would guesstimate 1 1/2 degrees of Camber adjustment. I push the hub and knuckle all the way inward and then tighten the bolts and measure afterward, its usually around 1/2 degree negative Camber so I leave it there. This method isn't perfect and would be subject to vagaries of the strut holes and manufacturing.

[abscate]

If you are really in a jam you can creative on compressing the springs…use good quality vice grips of course.

[Blacklab467]

OMG! There’s got to be a YouTube epic fail video of someone doing this.

[MoVolvos]

I've had good success with the spring compressor I bought although it's a Chinese made unit, heavy with lots of iron and the threaded compressor has a large diameter threaded shaft and a 21mm bolt head. Handling the caged spring is a little unnerving, I actually wear a full face dirt bike helmet and goggles for this part.
I don't know for sure if there is actually provisions for camber adjustment, the lower knuckle bolt bore is round to accept the bolt, the upper one is oblong, allowing for what I would guesstimate 1 1/2 degrees of Camber adjustment. I push the hub and knuckle all the way inward and then tighten the bolts and measure afterward, its usually around 1/2 degree negative Camber so I leave it there. This method isn't perfect and would be subject to vagaries of the strut holes and manufacturing.

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I will be installing struts for the 00 S70 soon and will check to see if the upper knuckle hole is oblong. That would be nice instead of the camber bolt which I've yet tried. Can you provide a link to your spring compressor? Since it's free from Advance and it's 5 minutes from me I don't foresee getting a set but I like to compare the construction of theirs with yours.

The helmet and goggle are a good precaution. I guess I haven't felt the need for it but I did purposely unload one once I can see where that would be very protective.
.

[erikv11]

If you are really in a jam you can creative on compressing the springs…use good quality vice grips of course.

Never skimp on such a job. Mad respect. Props !

[dikidera]

The spring compressors I use are cheap thin Chinese ones. The thread actually got damaged once and i don't exactly trust them so I place very heavy duty cover over the spring whilst I am compressing it.

[abscate]

The good ones have pin catches on them to secure the compressor to the spring. The biggest danger is the spring compressor flying off and hurting you.

[cn90]

I used to use 2 spring compressors... I have found this
(using 2 spring compressors) to be dangerous, if one bolt
lets go, it is bad!

So, the solution is 3 or 4 compressors.
If you don't own them, then rent 2 sets of spring compressors
at local auto parts stores (Advance Auto, O'Reilly, or AutoZone) for free.
Just put down a deposit and get the money back once you return the tools.

With 3-4 compressors, I feel much safer.

PS: when you think about it, let's say it takes 2000 lbs to squeeze the coil
spring enough to replace the strut, each compressor handles 1000 lbs.
But with 4 compressors, each only has to handle 500 lbs!