06 V70, cranks but no start Topic is solved

[jonesg]

so theres pressure at the rail, but how much ?
a weak pump will drive fuel to the rail but not enough to run the engine.

you can unplug the pem and drive the pump with constant 12v feed, it should get you 80 psi.
if the engine starts with that test arrangement it tells you the pem is on the fritz.

i think your vvt hub is worn beyond spec and leaking.
FCP sells the big O ring but will that tighten up the play ?
i would grab one from the salvage yard.

[SVO LOU]

so theres pressure at the rail, but how much ?
a weak pump will drive fuel to the rail but not enough to run the engine.

you can unplug the pem and drive the pump with constant 12v feed, it should get you 80 psi.
if the engine starts with that test arrangement it tells you the pem is on the fritz.

i think your vvt hub is worn beyond spec and leaking.
FCP sells the big O ring but will that tighten up the play ?
i would grab one from the salvage yard.

I ordered a new volvo hub, the mileage I could see online from LKQ parts cars were within 30k miles of this car so unless they had a fairly new one installed I'd be in the same boat, or close by.
I didn't put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail valve but it was enough to get a couple of droplets in my eye, 30 psi or so is my guess.

[vtl]

i think your vvt hub is worn beyond spec and leaking.
FCP sells the big O ring but will that tighten up the play ?

O-ring they sell is thinner than the original one. Plus O-ring grinds a groove, so the replacement O-ring actually needs to be even bigger than the original. I think I was able to source one, after numerous attempts, but it didn't resolve the leak, so I went ahead and replaced both hubs with new ones.

New exhaust hub has about 3x more play than new intake hub. From the video the intake hub seems to be fine. It is usual exhaust one that leaks first.

Hub rivets can be drilled out, the hub shimmed and riveted back together to stop leaks. This is what they do in Eastern Europe.

[cn90]

In my experience with P2 cars...

- The Intake VVT Hub has about 1 mm play after 100K miles.
It easily lasts 300K bc it is rarely activated.

- The Exhaust VVT Hub usually has about 2-3 mm play after 100K miles. If the play is > 3 mm, then even with new cam seals, it leaks anyway. This is why I never buy old VVT hub, simply bc this job is so labor-intensive.

I wrote a detailed DIY in this forum.

PS: how many miles in your car?

[cn90]

New Exhaust VVT Hub has only 0.5 mm of play, barely perceptible...

[SVO LOU]

In my experience with P2 cars...

- The Intake VVT Hub has about 1 mm play after 100K miles.
It easily lasts 300K bc it is rarely activated.

- The Exhaust VVT Hub usually has about 2-3 mm play after 100K miles. If the play is > 3 mm, then even with new cam seals, it leaks anyway. This is why I never buy old VVT hub, simply bc this job is so labor-intensive.

I wrote a detailed DIY in this forum.

PS: how many miles in your car?

Car in question has 190k miles and the sad part is I still don't know the cause of the no-start, last year I did the PCV system/clean oil pan and changed cam and crank/oil pump seals but it still has a small oil leak that I noticed once I took off the timing covers to check the timing to see if it jumped. Once I get these seals/hub/belt changed it's back to troubleshooting.

[SVO LOU]

Had some good afternoon weather so I locked the cams and removed the exhaust and intake hubs, the front hub was dry behind it but could tell the exhaust hub had been leaking oil behind it, not sure if it was the cam seal or o-ring (or hub itself ?) but I changed the front cam seal and put the old pulley on the new hub.
Noticed I had both pullies locked to the rear part of the slot on the hubs but the car ran fine and without an engine code. I've probably read and watched 10 different ways of setting CVVT hubs, just hope I get it right when I get back to it, still have to change the crank seal.

[foggydogg]

Had some good afternoon weather so I locked the cams and removed the exhaust and intake hubs, the front hub was dry behind it but could tell the exhaust hub had been leaking oil behind it, not sure if it was the cam seal or o-ring (or hub itself ?) but I changed the front cam seal and put the old pulley on the new hub.
Noticed I had both pullies locked to the rear part of the slot on the hubs but the car ran fine and without an engine code. I've probably read and watched 10 different ways of setting CVVT hubs, just hope I get it right when I get back to it, still have to change the crank seal.

Resolved ? If so, resolution ?