What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[foggydogg]

Hit a particularly long patch of bumpy road today and the noise from the rear suspension has me thinking I should change the mounts and bushings at least, then maybe look into the struts.

Are these the parts I'd need, let me know if I missed anything or need to add anything.

Shock Mount - 9461524 x2
Trailing Arm Bushing - 3530202 (L), 9181027 (R)
Mounting Bolt - 977509 x2
Trailing Arm Link - 3516122 x2
Bump Stop - 3516327 x2

The noise from the loose tailgate panel is another thing I'm also doing today with the help of some ABS sheet and 3D printed parts. It's gonna be a bit of a process, let's see how it goes.

My suggestion would be to just look at the shocks and mounts first; the bushing job should be the last resort.

[foggydogg]

Thinking about getting an HFT air compressor, possibly a pancake type. Any cons I should know about?

The better of the two pancakes in their lineup has a coupon,

HF pancake.jpg (33.72 KiB) Viewed 286 times

...it will be a bit quieter and if it actually gets to 175 it will need to recharge less often. Mine doesn't quite make it, but head and shouldes better than the old red ones that struggled to get to 100.
They make another one super quiet, but it's another hundred.
Oops, just noticed it expires tomorrow.

[454cid]

Had a guy comment on my S70 last night, while getting gas. Asked if I ever had people making offers on it. Said he has/had an S60.

[bmdubya1198]

The better of the two pancakes in their lineup has a coupon,
HF pancake.jpg
...it will be a bit quieter and if it actually gets to 175 it will need to recharge less often. Mine doesn't quite make it, but head and shouldes better than the old red ones that struggled to get to 100.
They make another one super quiet, but it's another hundred.
Oops, just noticed it expires tomorrow.

That just means you need to hurry over to HF tomorrow! Being a sucker for that place, I'll probably end up there too

[scot850]

I am finally nearing the end of the cataloging process of the smaller stuff in the stash. Down to the last 4 larger bins. In the bin I am working on I found a pair of rear wheel hubs with the bearings from an early P80. These had only 4 lugbolt wheels from 93 to I believe possibly around mid-94, before returning to the standard 5 bolt wheels Volvo's use.

I recall swapping these off the 93 850 GLT which was my daughter's first car we bought used in the mid-noughties. I remember having a devil of a time finding a 2nd set of rims for winter rims due to the lack of 4 stud rims. I was considering changing to 5 bolt hubs when a set of 4 bolt rims turned up. This was the first P80 I worked on (I did have a 98 V70 T5 manual in the UK before moving to Canada in 01).

The hubs got swapped as I was told the noise from the rear hub was the wheel bearing failing. Strange as the car only had around 80k miles on it. I bought new Volvo hubs and had to wait for them as they had to come from Sweden. This is when I got my lesson on failed rear parking brake shoes. I had already swapped on hub before finding the issue was the shoes on the 2nd side!

I pulled the hubs out of the Volvo boxes the new ones came with and other than some surface rust on the faces, the bearings are like butter and really smooth.

Anyone out there needing a set of 4 bolt rear hubs as spares? Anyone still using 4 bolt hubs?

Neil.

[RedBrickCollector]

I'll check that tip on the parking brake shoes as I'm fairly sure I have a grating noise coming from the rear that sounds to me like some sort of brake sound yet no sign of a seized brake.

Driving around, I noticed around 1-2 seconds where it feels like it loses power after hitting 5k rpm before it shifts to second. Initially I thought this was some sort of engine issue, but is this the shift delay I've seen mentioned?

This specific car has had the transmission changed, around 2018, and I can't vouch for the quality of work even if (especially because?) I know the guy who did it. Planning to do an ATF change but I do have a few things I can't quite find yet with the search function:

1. For a 1997 model does the computer need the transmission adaptation?
2. I've seen that power flushes are a no-no, but what about say a siphon pump or removing the cover to totally drain it? Labor here is cheap and ATF is expensive, or just go with the Gibbons method?
3. Is there anything else I've missed?

[foggydogg]

This specific car has had the transmission changed, around 2018, and I can't vouch for the quality of work even if (especially because?) I know the guy who did it. Planning to do an ATF change but I do have a few things I can't quite find yet with the search function:

1. For a 1997 model does the computer need the transmission adaptation?
2. I've seen that power flushes are a no-no, but what about say a siphon pump or removing the cover to totally drain it? Labor here is cheap and ATF is expensive, or just go with the Gibbons method?
3. Is there anything else I've missed?

Hard No on the power flush. No need to remove the cover, there is a drain plug; that won't drain the converter though.
Since you know the person who did the work in 2018, ask how much fluid was changed then, and how many miles since? ATF isn't as sensitive to the calendar, it's miles and driving conditions.

[scot850]

There is a posted method for flushing the trans requiring a tube and disconnecting the input line to the radiator trans oil cooler at the radiator.

Recommend buying a new 'O' ring and cage. You can re-use the cage, but zip-tie it around the cage to ensure it does not come loose. Also ensure you check the orientation of the cage. One end the slots that lock into the cooler pipe is different to the other. Wrong orientation and it will leak or come off.

Then it is a case of running the engine/trans at idle and draining 2 quarts/liters at a time and topping up with the same amount removed until the fluid comes clean. Usually around 12 quarts/liters needed.

Then there are those that drain the trans (about 3.5 liters) re-fill and do this a few times or at each engine oil change. New drain plug crush washer required.

Neil.

[MoVolvos]

I'll check that tip on the parking brake shoes as I'm fairly sure I have a grating noise coming from the rear that sounds to me like some sort of brake sound yet no sign of a seized brake.

Driving around, I noticed around 1-2 seconds where it feels like it loses power after hitting 5k rpm before it shifts to second. Initially I thought this was some sort of engine issue, but is this the shift delay I've seen mentioned?

This specific car has had the transmission changed, around 2018, and I can't vouch for the quality of work even if (especially because?) I know the guy who did it. Planning to do an ATF change but I do have a few things I can't quite find yet with the search function:

1. For a 1997 model does the computer need the transmission adaptation?
2. I've seen that power flushes are a no-no, but what about say a siphon pump or removing the cover to totally drain it? Labor here is cheap and ATF is expensive, or just go with the Gibbons method?
3. Is there anything else I've missed?

.
Not sure if it's the bottom or top transmission line that needs to be removed so fluid flows out of the line rather than the radiator. Some people put hoses on both ends to figure it out initially. I know for sure Volvo changed the direction of flow as my 98 S70 T5 was opposite from the 03 S80 T6 when I did the flush. Good thing I put a hose in the radiator and transmission line.

Here is Robert doing a drain and fill. Basically fill up and begin the flush if you choose to do so. Flush till no fluid comes out and then fill and repeat. No need to just do 2 quarts at a time. I am using an extractor to empty the transmission pan so don't have to pull the plug.
.

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[RedBrickCollector]

Thanks for the info everyone, I think what I'll do is head to a friendly shop and we'll do the Gibbons method for cheap.

Would a '97/'98 model year need the Transmission Adaptations programming I've seen mentioned?

Today mostly worked on interior trim pieces. The dash and tailgate are cracked, I have those out to repair and repaint as needed. The plastic trim on the rear seats seem to be making a lot of noise, I'm sure there are missing clips, I'll address these with foam and cork tape most likely.

How can I tell if my car is supposed to have a passenger airbag? Seems strange that a car with SIPS doesn't have a passenger airbag by default, but I can't tell if mine just never came with one or if I'm suppoosed to have one. Can this be added in?