I think I hit the valves....:/

[dikidera]

So I decided to change water pump, but got lazy and only put on the cam locking tool, but perhaps the procedure was wrong that I did.

I installed cam locking tool BEFORE taking off timing belt.
I removed the crank pulley nut with an impact gun

After I installed the water pump I did everything, timing belt and tensioner and used my ratchet to check valves are ok. There was no resistance noticeable beyond the compression stroke making it difficult but letting up after a while. I probably rotated the crankshaft 5 or 6 times.
I tested the engine without the serpentine belt, the engine started right away but with a noise! I shut the car and decided to reinstall the serpentine belt
I started the engine and the noise was worse. It felt like grinding!!!!
I shut off the car, an rotated the engine by hand, it was moving freely but because of spark plugs there was slight resistance letting up. So then I removed the spark plugs and rotated again, no resistance at all due to no compression without spark plugs.

I start working again, I removed the timing belt tensioner, I removed the belt. I bust out the crank lock tool install it, rotate counter-clockwise, the crank hits the pin. I go to install the cam lock tool and weird, it doesn't fit! For a while I thought I had a defective unit and it still could be.
Remember how I removed the timing belt again? Well the camshafts did not move I am sure of it, but when I went to install the tool, the notches did not fit unti I rotated the tool 180 degrees, I was like wtf...

Anyway I locked it all again, did the belt, tensioner and rotated the crankshaft, no resistance but it got dark and I did not test car!!

I am not sure what happened....any ideas guys? Is it possible I hit valves even after hand rotating there was no resistance? What about the weird situation now where to tool was 180 degrees from each end...I am kind of scared of starting the car again.

[jonesg]

don't start it until you resolve the cam contradiction.


if you can rotate by hand its fine.
look at the cam lock tool, the locking notches are different, one sit high, the other sits lower.
the cam lock tool should have the intake higher than the exh.
its possible you're 180 out of sync.

the noise is an odd one. the starter might be binding against the flywheel.
make sure its mounted properly.

you removed the crank nut with the impact, was the crank lock tool in place.
i removed mine 3 times with the impact and the crank moved, i don't use he crank locking tool, i just move the crank back to the proper position.

[BlackBart]

My gut is that any valve impact is not at all a grinding noise. A pully not on right? A VVT issue?

Oh...jonesg beat me to it.

[dikidera]

The grinding noise did at first appear to be coming from the intake vvt hub, however in my and posthaste to shut off the car I did not listen closely.

However one thing I should mention is that whilst putting on the belt, I noticed I could push the vvt hub further inside. As if it had some axial play.

[jonesg]

The grinding noise did at first appear to be coming from the intake vvt hub, however in my and posthaste to shut off the car I did not listen closely.

However one thing I should mention is that whilst putting on the belt, I noticed I could push the vvt hub further inside. As if it had some axial play.

I don't think the intake cam hub should move like that .
Pull the belt and see whats up.

[dikidera]

I think I know after sleeping why the cams were so far away from one another. Remember my steps, I rotated the crankshaft to lock it! Which means even if the cams didnt move, they were simply in the position last left with the belt on, which doesn't correspond to the current locked crank position. I scared myself for nothing. I could still be wrong though.

However! This still doesn't explain the grinding noise. I am only hoping it was either the tensioner too tight and couldn't freely spin OR the vvt hub when I pushed it further in. Upon reinstallation of everything I will disconnect the vvt solenoid.

Additionally maybe for one reason or another(impact gun without crank lock) I was a tooth out on the crankshaft, maybe even half a tooth. Maybe I did hit valves still, even if the crankshaft rotated freely in all instances.

[dikidera]

New issue, perhaps now the timing is fine, but a new problem has cropped up. No power to ignition coil 5. I checked the wiring and both ground and signal were broken in the same place and thus shorted together. Now after fixing the wiring, the signal wire for coil no 5 which is green-yellow in color I think shows a short to ground...whereas the other coil(coil number 4) wires do not.

So now...is the wire shorted somewhere on the wiring path OR did the ECM's signal for coil number 5 die? If I have to be honest near the ECM and TCM I did smell the magic smoke but didn't think much of it. But now...I am wondering

[abscate]

All the coils receive 12V from the same Bus.

They are fired by grounding at the ECU with separate wires. Make sure the two coil grounds are in place on top of the head cover . Too

[dikidera]

It seems I was mistaken about the coil on cyl 5. It is firing, but the injector isn't making any sounds according to my stethoscope. I measured the resistance of the injector it is fine and in line with the rest.

What I've also observed:
code (P0075)
Misfire on Cyl 5.
No smoke in exhaust but it is puffing(maybe because of the misfire)?

What I've done:
Measure compression on all cylinders, 180psi on ALL of them, including Cyl 5. I have not done a leak down test, I dont have a compressor.
Removed and re-installed ECM
Swap plugs
Swap coil packs
Test coil of Cyl 5 outside of engine whilst running, there is a spark
Stethoscope on injector 5(no sound I believe)

My question is could the timing ONLY affect somehow Cylinder 5? Is it possible to have bent valves and compression still remaining 180 psi flat on all cylinders, same as measured when I replaced the head gasket?

=====================Addendum======
Car works fine in CNG mode(engine is not shaking), minus the VVT solenoid AND injector 5 of petrol mode. I think timing might be fine, but I may have an electrical gremlin.

[volvolugnut]

A 9 volt transistor battery will fire the injector. Add temporary connections to the 9 V battery and tap a wire to complete circuit. Listen for the clicks to confirm injector is OK.
volvolugnut