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Subframe Bushing DIY using E36 Trailing Arm Bushing Tool

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Srini850
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Joined: 13 February 2011
Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 855R
Location: Springfield, IL

Subframe Bushing DIY using E36 Trailing Arm Bushing Tool

Post by Srini850 »

I thought I would post this quick way to change Volvo Subframe Bushings using the Schwaben E36 trailing arm bushing tool. This is available from ECS. If there are no rules against links I am happy to post it but you can search the name on google and find it.

I'll let the pictures do most of the talking. Just make sure you lube the threads really well with anti-seize or something similar. You can use this tool to push out the old bushings and press in the new ones. I have never tried this method with the subframe in the car but I'm sure it would still work. Hope this helps! New bushings made my car feel brand new.

NOTE: In the install pictures below, the subframe is upside down.
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Last edited by Srini850 on 20 Feb 2024, 13:41, edited 1 time in total.

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

An E36 BMW tool, interesting. Someone here on MVS recently 3D printed a tool to fit the bushing, I'll have to find that. They posted the 3D files so you can make your own.
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Srini850
Posts: 71
Joined: 13 February 2011
Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 855R
Location: Springfield, IL

Post by Srini850 »

BlackBart wrote: 20 Feb 2024, 13:39 An E36 BMW tool, interesting. Someone here on MVS recently 3D printed a tool to fit the bushing, I'll have to find that. They posted the 3D files so you can make your own.
Nice! Please post it if you find it. I'm sure that piece would make this tool perfect. However, you can definitely get it done with just this tool. You just have to make sure it is centered and continues to stay centered as you push it in.

I did freeze the bushings before hand but not really sure how much it helped since I did this job in a cold garage in winter.

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

Here, page 3, on a P2 chassis -

viewtopic.php?t=96106&start=20
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Krons
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Post by Krons »

Not sure many will have that kind of access with the full subframe out of the car?

I found a Harbor Freight electric impact to work quite well. Agree on keeping them straight and square to drive them home—cracked the plastic on one that got just a little bit crooked, even with grease on it.
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crasbe
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Post by crasbe »

Krons wrote: 20 Feb 2024, 20:55 I found a Harbor Freight electric impact to work quite well. Agree on keeping them straight and square to drive them home—cracked the plastic on one that got just a little bit crooked, even with grease on it.
I found that you will have a very hard time getting the bushings in straight by just pressing them, but you can get them straight(er) when applying some good blows with a big rubber mallet. With the preload of the press, they should go in nicely.

The E36 tool looks good, but it still squishes the rubber crown. With the 3D printed tool, the E36 tool would probably work perfectly.
(And yes, I'm the guy who made the 3D printed tool, so I might be biased :D )
Check out my 3D Printed Parts for Volvo P2 and P80 on Printables :D

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Krons
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Post by Krons »

crasbe wrote: 24 Feb 2024, 01:44
Krons wrote: 20 Feb 2024, 20:55 I found a Harbor Freight electric impact to work quite well. Agree on keeping them straight and square to drive them home—cracked the plastic on one that got just a little bit crooked, even with grease on it.
I found that you will have a very hard time getting the bushings in straight by just pressing them, but you can get them straight(er) when applying some good blows with a big rubber mallet. With the preload of the press, they should go in nicely.

The E36 tool looks good, but it still squishes the rubber crown. With the 3D printed tool, the E36 tool would probably work perfectly.
(And yes, I'm the guy who made the 3D printed tool, so I might be biased :D )
A mallet didn’t do anything for me, as I was on jackstands with limited clearance. I just got the bushing snug against the subframe to verify it was square—then drive home with the impact. I got in a hurry on my last one that was just a little crooked.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA

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