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Rocker Panel Evaluation, worth getting fixed? 96R 850

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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camjohns
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Rocker Panel Evaluation, worth getting fixed? 96R 850

Post by camjohns »

I started a new topic from a previous subframe evaluation. The subframe seems to be good, but as I worked to correct suspension issues from a small accident, I found that the metal rocker panels were rusted through. I did get some good thoughts on scot850 from his experience, and now have the pictures to post. The accident was my brother driving off exit ramp, hitting a bump in which all 4 wheels were airborne and landed. The rusted areas are the same on both sides, I think what may have happened is that the rockers cracked and perhaps broke there, and then the rust began.

FYI, I have a 97 N/A donor car that I was going to use to pull parts from for the R, but now I'm considering using the donor car shell to swap the R into, any thoughts on that as well? Is it a simple plug-and-play from the wiring harness standpoint?

I have attached pictures below.

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scot850  
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Post by scot850 »

It is a lot of work to swap all the stuff over. I guess it depends on if you know anyone or a repair shop that can weld decently and for a reasonable cost. Most of the inner structure still looks savable, it is the cover rockers with the mounts for the plastic covers that is poorly.

How bad is it at the rear of the rockers and at the front in the fender area?

These days when cars get like this we tend to throw then away, but growing up in the dark ages like me, this was common in cars at less than 10 years old! We would not think twice about having this repaired. Being an 'R' as opposed to a base model, it makes the cost of repair worth considering depending on the general condition of the car. If the damage is not recorded, then that is a value bonus.

Like I've said before, if the car means enough to you, or the value at least would break even on the repairs, then it is probably worth doing.

If you do decide to have it repaired, have the inner sections painted with zinc and then fill with cavity protection wax afterward to prevent it happening again.

Neil.
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camjohns
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Post by camjohns »

Thanks!

Yes here are a couple more pictures of the front and rear. Both sides have identical rust issues.

I'll have to ask around on who does bodywork in my area, from what I have gathered already there doesn't seem to be anyone who does it
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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Make your brother do the work. They aren't making 850 Rs any more...

I agree with Neil.

Less work to keep the R.
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scot850  
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Post by scot850 »

I would ask around in your local area for repair shops or even shop with a good reputation (do they exist anymore). You may find specialist classic shops who are probably well versed in this type of repair more so that regular paint and body shops.

Get a coupe of quotes and ask them how they are going to do the repair. Look for using weld through primer and ideally something like zinc paint for the insides of the rocker panels to reduce rusts chance to return.

Hard to make decisions without having the info.

Neil.
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Post by abscate »

People who do that kind of work don’t advertise because they have tons of work.

See Sean’s post on fixing his S70, it’s not hard for a welder but it’s not a YouTube skill.
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Sveedy
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Post by Sveedy »

A bit of work, that's for sure, but I'd fix the R. If you switch everything from the R into the donor car, you will no longer have an R as far as the vin is concerned.
You either need the knowledge, time, and space, to do the work yourself, or it will be big $$$.
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foggydogg
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Post by foggydogg »

If it was my project - especially since you have a few man-hours invested already, and as I recall the initial cost was, uhm...- I would keep plugging away at the R. While not inexpensive, it isn't as hateful as having to replace floorpans, for example. Now that you have pics, try shopping the job around that way first. Some shops will negotiate a fixed (cash) price, some would prefer time and materials. One thing on the plus side is that area is covered by plastic, so paint match won't be a critical issue.
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Clemens
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Post by Clemens »

+1 on fixing it. Welding isn't rocket science, so someone should be able to do it properly. Over here this would be a 2000 Dollar job.
I'll have it done to my winter 855 T5 this summer.
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