My 2009 C30 with 90,000 has original cam belt and tensioners. On the IPD tech site they say the belt is very durable. But it’s the idler and tensioner that are the problem. Would it be possible to simply leave belt in place and just replace those two components? No cam locks etc.
On the FCP video, it looks like those parts are the last to be installed.
When the water pump eventually fails then I would do the full maintenance.
Thanks, mike
Tensioner/idler only? 2009 c30
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.Teeka56 wrote: ↑14 Mar 2024, 16:03 My 2009 C30 with 90,000 has original cam belt and tensioners. On the IPD tech site they say the belt is very durable. But it’s the idler and tensioner that are the problem. Would it be possible to simply leave belt in place and just replace those two components? No cam locks etc.
On the FCP video, it looks like those parts are the last to be installed.
When the water pump eventually fails then I would do the full maintenance.
Thanks, mike
Didn't view FCP's video but hope this helps.
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Volvo C30 Belt and Tensioner Replacement
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... ioners.htm
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Volvo C30 (2007-2013) Technical Articles
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... 0_Tech.htm
.
Blessings,
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BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
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Why risk losing the belt. Had an S40 that destroyed the engine due to timing belt failure around 150k.
On my kids S60 the water pump bearing went out and nearly took out the belt and engine.
How much is the belt?
On my kids S60 the water pump bearing went out and nearly took out the belt and engine.
How much is the belt?
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You are going to be staring at all of it when you go to do the tensioner and idler. Might as well do the pump and belt at the same time.
There's quite a bit you need to remove and you should definitely use the cam locking tool. Some guys get away with not locking them, but it's a lot easier and worry free with the tool. You'll likely need to raise and lower the motor several times to get to the tensioner allen unless you have some shallow ones laying around. Just put a jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 between the pan and jack after you've got the car on stands or a lift. Tool set is only $90 on Amazon and you'll need 2 new cam plugs cheap at FCP. In fact you can probably get the timing kit belt, water pump and all at FCP.
I just did this job along with putting in ENEM cams, ENEM valve springs, set the lash, new valve guide seals etc. Not a difficult job, just takes time and you don't want to rush. The belt will seam like it doesn't fit but you just have to fiddle with a bit and it will go on. Leaving a little slack in the tensioner helps. FCP's video is one of the better ones I've seen.
There's quite a bit you need to remove and you should definitely use the cam locking tool. Some guys get away with not locking them, but it's a lot easier and worry free with the tool. You'll likely need to raise and lower the motor several times to get to the tensioner allen unless you have some shallow ones laying around. Just put a jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 between the pan and jack after you've got the car on stands or a lift. Tool set is only $90 on Amazon and you'll need 2 new cam plugs cheap at FCP. In fact you can probably get the timing kit belt, water pump and all at FCP.
I just did this job along with putting in ENEM cams, ENEM valve springs, set the lash, new valve guide seals etc. Not a difficult job, just takes time and you don't want to rush. The belt will seam like it doesn't fit but you just have to fiddle with a bit and it will go on. Leaving a little slack in the tensioner helps. FCP's video is one of the better ones I've seen.
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