PROBLEM: car fires but quickly sputters out, or I can rev it up a bit roughly but eventually it quits anyway. Absolutely will not idle.
PRIOR SYMPTOMS:
In the morning it was having a bit of trouble staying started, the last week or so, but once it got started it was fine, except for a bit of hesitation on acceleration and lower than normal power going up hills.
The fuel pump relay is fine but I replaced it anyway. Started fuel pump with jumper and started car, same thing.
Any ideas what I should try next? Replace fuel pumps? Replace fuel pressure regulator?
Also, does jumping the fuel pressure regulator plug turn on both fuel pumps or just the main one?
Thanks.
1988 245DL
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volvolugnut
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Check your fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail of the engine. You should have 40 to 45 PSI depending on your specific engine.
Poor starting and loss of power is typical of poor fuel delivery.
240 Volvos have an in tank fuel strainer before the in tank fuel pump. The in tank pump feeds the main fuel pump.
If the car has lots of miles or has not been run in months, clogging and failure of the in tank parts are common.
The in tank parts can be accessed through a plate in the floor.
Test fuel pressure and post again.
volvolugnut
Poor starting and loss of power is typical of poor fuel delivery.
240 Volvos have an in tank fuel strainer before the in tank fuel pump. The in tank pump feeds the main fuel pump.
If the car has lots of miles or has not been run in months, clogging and failure of the in tank parts are common.
The in tank parts can be accessed through a plate in the floor.
Test fuel pressure and post again.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Thanks for your reply. From the videos I've seen, the car has to stay running to check the fuel pressure. Most of the time it starts and immediately stalls, but after bridging 4 and 6 fuse slots it ran for ten seconds or so, roughly if I kept revving it then stalled anyway. Assuming I can do that again is that enough time to check fuel pressure?
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volvolugnut
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: 19 January 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 927 times
- Been thanked: 1000 times
If you can get a pressure reading while it is running even a little while it may be instructive.
Next step is to open the line to the main fuel pump from the tank. Check that the in tank pump is pumping to the main tank by directing this flow into a container.
volvolugnut
Next step is to open the line to the main fuel pump from the tank. Check that the in tank pump is pumping to the main tank by directing this flow into a container.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Thanks. I put on a new filter and bench tested the pump. Seemed fine si I put it back on. Still no start. I bridged 4 and 6 again in the fuse panel and verified both pumps are humming. So confused I finally hired a mechanic friend to stop by after his shift at a BMW/Audi/VW shop and he was able to start it and keep it running indefinitely with starting fluid, spraying it directly into the throttle body continuously. Said we could even drive it that way if we had to. Anyway he said it's definitely the fuel pumps and recommended replacing them both.
I bought a delphi pump for the in-line one, but it requires cutting the wires and replacing the connectors which I'm not fond of. So might order a bosch since I have to wait a week for the lift pump anyway. Should I replace the entire fuel sending unit or just the pump part? People say it's difficult to get out.
Interested to know wgat you think since he's not a volvo mechanic but definitely a pro and knows old school diagnosis w/o OBD.
I bought a delphi pump for the in-line one, but it requires cutting the wires and replacing the connectors which I'm not fond of. So might order a bosch since I have to wait a week for the lift pump anyway. Should I replace the entire fuel sending unit or just the pump part? People say it's difficult to get out.
Interested to know wgat you think since he's not a volvo mechanic but definitely a pro and knows old school diagnosis w/o OBD.
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volvolugnut
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: 19 January 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 927 times
- Been thanked: 1000 times
Don't replace the fuel pumps until you find out why they run but do not pump fuel. Pull the in tank pump and check the filter at the intake tube. It may be full of crud and collapsed.
Don't replace the fuel sender unit unless you know it is not working.
To get anything out of the tank, you have to remove the entire assembly. Buy the intake filter and plan to replace it as a minimum. This filter may be all you need.
When you bench test the pumps, try them with fuel in and out of bottles.
Cutting the wires and splicing should be OK.
volvolugnut
Don't replace the fuel sender unit unless you know it is not working.
To get anything out of the tank, you have to remove the entire assembly. Buy the intake filter and plan to replace it as a minimum. This filter may be all you need.
When you bench test the pumps, try them with fuel in and out of bottles.
Cutting the wires and splicing should be OK.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
"Pull the in tank pump and check the filter at the intake tube. It may be full of crud and collapsed."
Are you talking about the fuel sock? Or is there another filter?
You know before I pulled the main pump it was loud. After reinstalling it it's much quieter and there's a popping sound like a short down there. Is it because it pumped all the fuel out when I tested it?
Are you talking about the fuel sock? Or is there another filter?
You know before I pulled the main pump it was loud. After reinstalling it it's much quieter and there's a popping sound like a short down there. Is it because it pumped all the fuel out when I tested it?
I changed the in-tank pump. Didn't see anything wrong with it other than a deteriorated sock. Verified 10.8v at the plug (battery is at 12v.) Still no start. Since the 1988 doesn't prime do I need to do something to get fuel back in the system? Again I changed the filter and tested the original pump which emptied it out.
Also could it be a stuck check valve? Everything I pulled looked clean. Can't figure out why it's not sending fuel. Was thinking I might pull the fuel lines ine at a time and then jump the relay, see if fuel is coming out. Is this something I shouldn't do for some reason? Thanks.
Also could it be a stuck check valve? Everything I pulled looked clean. Can't figure out why it's not sending fuel. Was thinking I might pull the fuel lines ine at a time and then jump the relay, see if fuel is coming out. Is this something I shouldn't do for some reason? Thanks.
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