Parts brands - OE Volvo, trusted aftermarket, and bad

[scot850]

As the later (94?-) control arms have no replaceable ball joints, and that is what mostly fails, you have little option other than buying OE. Lemforder used to make a decent unit, but I think TRW bought them over. Do you do the work yourself or pay someone to do it for you?

50kkm does seem low for control arms but that is what is the curse of the modern aftermarket part quality. I had the same issue with the Febi control arm I used on an 850 when it didn't even last that long.

Your options are slim:

1) Pay up for Volvo items in the hope they have not lowered their quality only upped the prices!
2) See if you can find a set of early aluminum control arms from a 92-4 850 which have a replaceable ball joint, but check the ball joint can still be found.

If you do the work yourself, it is a pain, but you do a higher than average mileage. Swapping out a control is not that hard and is fairly quick with practice!

Neil.

[abscate]

So, today I received some disappointing news: the ball joints on my eleven month old wish bones have a lot of play. I've driven them for 35000 kilometers and they're from the Febi Bilstein brand. Had somewhat of the same issue with the TRW brand, but the TRW's lasted longer, somewhat of 50.000 kilometers and almost 2 years. Mind you, the Dutch highways are silky smooth. I'm a bit at my wits end... Replaycing the wish bones/ control arms every year isnt a solid strategy. Replaycing the control arms with brushings of PU rubber isnt something I like to do because usually that makes the riding experience very stif.

Whats your advice?

Ocelot , are the bushings bolt being tightened correctly with the control arms in the driving position? If they are tightened on the lift they will fail early. 150,000 KM should be lifetime

[Ocelot]

So, today I received some disappointing news: the ball joints on my eleven month old wish bones have a lot of play. I've driven them for 35000 kilometers and they're from the Febi Bilstein brand. Had somewhat of the same issue with the TRW brand, but the TRW's lasted longer, somewhat of 50.000 kilometers and almost 2 years. Mind you, the Dutch highways are silky smooth. I'm a bit at my wits end... Replaycing the wish bones/ control arms every year isnt a solid strategy. Replaycing the control arms with brushings of PU rubber isnt something I like to do because usually that makes the riding experience very stif.

Whats your advice?

Ocelot , are the bushings bolt being tightened correctly with the control arms in the driving position? If they are tightened on the lift they will fail early. 150,000 KM should be lifetime

Eh, when I think back... the first time I replaced them myself and the bolts were tightened on the lift. The second time was done by a local garage. You make me very curious... why do the control arms need to be tightened with the car on the ground?

[BlackBart]

Because if you tighten the bolts with the wheels drooping, then set it down, the arms rotate, twisting the rubber bushings. So the rubber is already in tension and under load when sitting level, and they will wear out faster.

[Ocelot]

Okay! Didn't knew that! I'm willing to ask a dumb question...

How is one to tighten the bolts with the vehicle on the ground? What's your approach to this?

[abscate]

You go on a crash diet of water for 6 months, lose 30 kg and slide under …..

Or

You carefully jack the wheel up the driving position on jackstands.

[tryingbe]

Okay! Didn't knew that! I'm willing to ask a dumb question...

How is one to tighten the bolts with the vehicle on the ground? What's your approach to this?

I use RhinoRamps at home when I have to tighten an suspension bolt, but I'd imagine solid wood pieces will be fine, if you have the parking brakes on.

[jsrnsis]

Out with the...new, in with the....old?

Poor showing from a rein engine mount. I noticed it was bad on the second day after install.

Completely broken through. Surprisingly, not as bad as you'd think, but definitely noticable when accelerating, and some extra dull clunking.

Part number CRP-AVE0621. Id avoid like the plague.

[MoVolvos]

Out with the...new, in with the....old?
20240520_203507.jpg
Poor showing from a rein engine mount. I noticed it was bad on the second day after install.
20240520_192205.jpg

20240520_203716.jpg
Completely broken through. Surprisingly, not as bad as you'd think, but definitely noticable when accelerating, and some extra dull clunking.

Part number CRP-AVE0621. Id avoid like the plague.

.
In the early 2000 I installed a Rein mount just like that in a 98 S70 T5. Lasted about a year so don't buy it or it'll Rein on your parade.
.

[abscate]

That’s well struck there, BKM

10,000 points given