Recently began the subframe bushing replace expedition and it's not been much fun. Determined that rt rear subframe bushing was "wonky" & created a continual clunking (at least that's the theory). Below is bushing before removal. The frame bolt is tight.
Managed to remove the right bushing and press in a replacement without too much fuss using 1" bolt with flat stock.
Have removed left bushing and discover it is the "old style" oval center.
Much to my surprise, I can't use the same method that worked on the right side due to the "protrusion".
This "nipple" negates the use of the 1" bolt as there is insufficient room to use a backer plate and jamb nut to secure 1" bolt for drawing bushing into subframe. Have been massively unsuccessful in getting replacement bushing to move evenly into subframe using much lubricant and slowly drawing the bushing into place using M14 x100mm frame bolt. The bushing ALWAYS get cocked. Bottle jack has been no help. I've even built out the diameter of the bushing bolt to keep the pressure on the center of the bushing somewhat equal. But there is still some play between the bolt shims & the center of the bushing. Have burnished the bushing area trying to get the resistance to installation minimized.
Is there another installation method I'm missing??
P2 front subframe bushing install (not)
- Krons
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The oval bushing is superseded to the round one, no worry’s there.
I used a Harbor Freight electric impact on mine. Make sure to snug it up square with an Allen wrench or other spacer between the subframe and frame to give enough room to get it to fully seat…then the impact to drive it home.
There is a good tutorial on here somewhere, will see if I can find it.
I used a Harbor Freight electric impact on mine. Make sure to snug it up square with an Allen wrench or other spacer between the subframe and frame to give enough room to get it to fully seat…then the impact to drive it home.
There is a good tutorial on here somewhere, will see if I can find it.
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- Krons
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Here is the tutorial I used as a guide:
viewtopic.php?t=96106
viewtopic.php?t=96106
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
- BlackBart
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Thanks for that link, Krons, I need to do this.
Quick question - does this cause the subframe to shift some and your alignment settings are off?
Or do the bolts center each corner on the holes?
Quick question - does this cause the subframe to shift some and your alignment settings are off?
Or do the bolts center each corner on the holes?
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
- Krons
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I don’t believe so. With 105 Nm plus 120 degrees of torque I’d have to imagine it’ll be in the same spot.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
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