What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[RedBrickCollector]

V70 was struggling to cold start and started having so misses under load on the highway a good way from home. First suspect was the fuel pump hose again, pulled the pump in a hardware store parking lot (getting really good at it, under 5 minutes!), looked fine, drove home with a light right foot.

Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge and sure enough, it wasnt holding good pressure (dropping to 25psi in 10s after priming). Fuel pump back out, the top end of the hose could be rotated so I added another clamp, without great expectations. Sure enough, that was the issue again !


About to order the most expensive submersible fuel hose i can find and gold plated clamps if that's what it takes for this thing to hold more than 6 months

Going to pull mine for the first time soon, probably this weekend. I'm considering that maybe because of rubber swelling with fuel, I might try oetiker or spring style hose clamps. I read that worm drive clamps loosen over time if what they're attached to tends to expand and contract.

Edit: what tool do you use to remove the quick disconnect lines easily?

[Goupil]

V70 was struggling to cold start and started having so misses under load on the highway a good way from home. First suspect was the fuel pump hose again, pulled the pump in a hardware store parking lot (getting really good at it, under 5 minutes!), looked fine, drove home with a light right foot.

Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge and sure enough, it wasnt holding good pressure (dropping to 25psi in 10s after priming). Fuel pump back out, the top end of the hose could be rotated so I added another clamp, without great expectations. Sure enough, that was the issue again !


About to order the most expensive submersible fuel hose i can find and gold plated clamps if that's what it takes for this thing to hold more than 6 months

Going to pull mine for the first time soon, probably this weekend. I'm considering that maybe because of rubber swelling with fuel, I might try oetiker or spring style hose clamps. I read that worm drive clamps loosen over time if what they're attached to tends to expand and contract.

Edit: what tool do you use to remove the quick disconnect lines easily?

The OEM clamps are the style of the top one, those shouldnt loosen but as you said, it's free so might as well check clamps/hose before spending money.
I'm using a non factory pump and E85 which isnt helping things; the hose that came with the pump was too short, the supposedly submersible hose i bought got really soft so I'm currently running the factory one

To get the quick disconnect off I use a pair of pliers (Knipex Cobras) gently pulling the collar up and a large flat screwdriver to push the whole thing up.

[RedBrickCollector]

The OEM clamps are the style of the top one, those shouldnt loosen but as you said, it's free so might as well check clamps/hose before spending money.
I'm using a non factory pump and E85 which isnt helping things; the hose that came with the pump was too short, the supposedly submersible hose i bought got really soft so I'm currently running the factory one

E85 probably isn't helping things yes. Is the supposedly submersible hose also supposedly E85 rated?

Thank you for the tool tip, I'll make sure I have something that will work. For the locking ring itself, do you use anything special?

[Goupil]

The OEM clamps are the style of the top one, those shouldnt loosen but as you said, it's free so might as well check clamps/hose before spending money.
I'm using a non factory pump and E85 which isnt helping things; the hose that came with the pump was too short, the supposedly submersible hose i bought got really soft so I'm currently running the factory one

E85 probably isn't helping things yes. Is the supposedly submersible hose also supposedly E85 rated?

Thank you for the tool tip, I'll make sure I have something that will work. For the locking ring itself, do you use anything special?

The aftermarket one were supposed to be E85 rated, the OEM isnt but it holds better

Never used any fancy tools for the lockring, think I had to use a big screwdriver and a hammer to unlock first time. Nowadays I can pretty much underscrew it by hand, but usually go for the pliers

[yanga001]

Not a volvo week for me. After vacation we had a busy schedule. My partners 08 Acura RDX decided to spring a pretty sizeable coolant leak from around the turbo area. She took it to a mechanic as i was busy and they said 4k for a new turbo. Car runs great, air fuel ratios are nominal, boost is built, and no white smoke is laid down on acceleration.

Funnily enough it uses a TD04H turbo with coolant and oil cooling. Did a late night diag yesterday and answered 50% of my questions. There was a leak on a water cooled exhaust manifold but it does not seem to be active. I need to get my inspection camera to the backside of the turbo where the coolant pips connect to it to see if that area is leaking. If its not then i get to deal with rusty bolts.

Got my winters changed to summers and found a half inch rock in one of the winters. That explains why it emptied in two days.

Frustrating week as my 08 S60 AC weakened a bit and my filler head for the charging cans also broke.

If i can hold off deaths embrace on my partners car then i can save a good chunk of money which is not too available. Looks like ill trade bloody knuckles and bruised hands for that wish.

Hoping sunshine is around the corner.

[5underpressure]

This was in a box in the back of the car when purchased, doesn’t seem to belong to this car 98 v70 speaking of my car, the Vin tag is a date of manufacturer of 03 97 But when I did a Vin look up, it told me it was a 98…

Looks like I’ll be needing this.



Found a blown r r shock mount rod poked through the cargo cover.

[bmdubya1198]

This was in a box in the back of the car when purchased, doesn’t seem to belong to this car 98 v70 speaking of my car, the Vin tag is a date of manufacturer of 03 97 But when I did a Vin look up, it told me it was a 98…

So anyway, if someone can identify this and wants it for the price of shipping, let me know.



Found a blown r r shock mount rod poked through the cargo cover.

That's a delta link mount.

Your car would be a '98, since in the US the S70/V70 started in model year 1998, even though production began in early 1997.

[5underpressure]

Ah ha, thank you, I was stuck on engine mounts didn’t consider suspension, still need to take a good hard look at that & see what it’s made of.

I suppose that’s the front right strong vibration felt under load? was looking for another motor mount torque strut thing. I suppose the right motor mount is shot, quite oily there still, suspension all feels tight Wheels don’t have slop, hand checked while raised.

Let it run and blasted it with the pressure washer. Then pulled the wire cover and the plug boots, sucked the oil and water out with the shop vac and 5/8’s hose, hand spliced. Pulled the lower air box to remove and dry out the distributor cap. While it was running with the cover off I felt the compression through the #4 plug, it was loose, 100 miles by me alone beating up the threads ugh. They looked ok but while warm I wasn’t super confident in the feel of it snugging up. We shall see. Maybe thread sealant is in my future.

[jsrnsis]

My SAS pump was so full of water, it was up into the hose that runs from the pump to the valve on the exhaust and spilled all over when I took the hose off.

You can see it here up to the brim.

Purely for testing and not for on-road use of course.

For anyone who wants to do this, I didn't find the info online about the coupler threads when I looked, but the coupling for the SAS valve into the exhaust has an M16 1.5 thread into the exhaust bung, and the nut from the SAS valve threads on to an M18 1.5 thread.
The SAS valve nut came off with just a 22mm wrench and a bit of force, the actual coupling needed to be persuaded with a stubby impact wrench and zipped right out, the hex is also 22mm.

[jsrnsis]

Not a volvo week for me. After vacation we had a busy schedule. My partners 08 Acura RDX decided to spring a pretty sizeable coolant leak from around the turbo area. She took it to a mechanic as i was busy and they said 4k for a new turbo. Car runs great, air fuel ratios are nominal, boost is built, and no white smoke is laid down on acceleration.

Funnily enough it uses a TD04H turbo with coolant and oil cooling. Did a late night diag yesterday and answered 50% of my questions. There was a leak on a water cooled exhaust manifold but it does not seem to be active. I need to get my inspection camera to the backside of the turbo where the coolant pips connect to it to see if that area is leaking. If its not then i get to deal with rusty bolts.

Got my winters changed to summers and found a half inch rock in one of the winters. That explains why it emptied in two days.

Frustrating week as my 08 S60 AC weakened a bit and my filler head for the charging cans also broke.

If i can hold off deaths embrace on my partners car then i can save a good chunk of money which is not too available. Looks like ill trade bloody knuckles and bruised hands for that wish.

Hoping sunshine is around the corner.

Water cooled exhaust manifold? Like a boat?