Does soldering wires change resistance? Answered?

[JimBee]

This question has been in my mind since I harvested a pretty clean looking Bosch camshaft position sensor a few years ago. Unfortunately, somebody had cut the lead midway to the plug, so the plug part is missing. Now, that I've had one fail, I have a complete CPS with its lead intact. So, the question again: what if I snip the lead from my defunct CPS and solder onto what might be, judging by its appearance, a well functioning Bosch CPS?
I suppose the signal from the CPS is quite meager since its wires are very skinny. I wouldn't want the quality of the signal, which probably goes through the brain, to be compromised.

Check out the following video—I think it answers the question, though the inference at the end kind of shifts the topic a bit without clearly discussing the conclusion.

https://www.google.com/search?q=does++s ... HTlkA,st:0

[jmartin919]

Depending on how difficult it is to replace the CPS (is this on the 93 - easy, is it different from the 96?) I would give the splice a try. Clean the bare wires best you can with contact cleaner or whatever and use flux when soldering then clean off the flux and wrap with tape or better yet shrink tubing. Also clean the mating connector parts.

[JimBee]

The CPS is pretty much the same on both the 93 and the 96. The hard part of swapping in a working CPS is the plug. There's a clip that slides around the plug locking it to the bracket that's bolted to the engine block. In the dark, getting that clip off (did use a flashlight, but still...), then separating the plug parts was tough. But, the other thing, of course, is if the Bosch CPS is in fact a good working unit, I'd like to make it usable in case I do need it.

[BEJinFbk]

To answer your post question, no.

As long as you have clean copper,
good quality 60/40 rosin core solder
( I prefer a smaller diameter, like .031" )
and can handle a soldering iron, this
should be a non-issue.

The shrink goes on first! Ask me how I know...
Try to to use a good quality, dual-wall polyolefin
shrink tube with an internal, hot melt adhesive to
keep your completed solder joint high and dry.

Be sure you have a tightly and neatly twisted joint
with no frayed ends. A good solder joint depends
on starting with a solid mechanical connection.

If you have a set of alligator clip "third hands",
break'em out and secure your work to hold it still.
.

Third Hand.jpg (22.82 KiB) Viewed 290 times

If not - Don't forget the MVS Amazon link: https://amzn.to/3GKkXeo
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adju ... 1_7?sr=8-7

Then clean the hot iron tip on a damp sponge or
paper towel, wet it with a very small amount of
solder, then apply that small ball of hot solder
to your work for initial heat transfer, carefully
feeding just enough additional solder to
"round off" the joint. The closer you can
keep your joint's overall diameter to the
insulation's OD, the better.

To avoid melting the insulation, don't leave
the heat on your joint any longer than
you need to for a clean joint.
Get the shrink placed quickly.

If you haven't done this a lot,
there's no shame in a few
practice joints with scraps.

[JimBee]

Thanks again for the detailed suggestions! I've done a little soldering though never any wires that skinny. They're almost the diameter of one strand of 18 ga. lamp cord. But I'll try it and see—after a little practice like you suggest