- Are there any installation concerns/differences specific to delrin bushings that I should aware of? Do you need to worry about the orientation of the delrin bushings?
- Is there a difference in the delrin bushings available online? Is BNE different/better than the Snabb set?
- Should I support the transmission while working on the adjacent bushing?
- Is there any reason not to install the subframe O-Rings (8638585) while I'm at it?
- If I'm dropping the subframe only for one bushing at a time, should I get the alignment done after I'm finished?
- Does it matter what kind of lube I use to get the bushings started? Blacklab467 used wheel bearing grease, but all I currently have is some brake caliper lube. More than willing to buy the right stuff if it makes a difference.
- A few installation reports I've read have mentioned the job would be easier with a slightly longer bolt for installation with a spacer. Thoughts, and is there any way to source a bolt like that?
Subframe Bushing/Delrin Replacement Questions
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rntaboy
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 15 July 2022
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Ohio
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Subframe Bushing/Delrin Replacement Questions
My 2004 V70 needs its subframe bushings replaced after 20+ years of service, and I'm strongly considering going with delrin bushings. I'm still learning home auto repair, and this would be the biggest job I've tackled so far. I've read over the excellent instructions Blacklab467 wrote multiple times, but I have a handful of questions about replacing the front subframe bushings on a P2, and going with Delrin bushings specifically, to hopefully made the process less intimidating.
- Blacklab467
- Posts: 1112
- Joined: 9 August 2016
- Year and Model: 2007 xc 70
- Location: Calgary, AB
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I think you are making too big of a deal out of a pretty easy job, hopefully I can assuage some of your concerns about tackling this job. First I would dissuade you from using Delrin or polypropylene bushings of any sort unless you are serious about building a track car or something, the reason being is that the disadvantages would greatly outweigh the advantages, the durometer rating of the bushing material I suspect is way higher on these aforementioned materials and would transmit vibration, negating the purpose of having a bushing in the first place. Volvo OEM bushings are cheap and purposefully engineered for their correct application, you're going to gain rigidity where you probably don't want it with Delrin......my two cents on that. I used to have high performance drag cars and we would commonly weld the motor mounts solid which served a very specific purpose but also came with disadvantages for a car that is also driven on the street.
So.......
you can remove the bushings as a pair rear then front using the method I described with whatever brand you decide. Remove the left rear bolt for example, but only loosen the the right rear and right front bolt, this will give you enough room. As I recall, you will have to remove the passenger side motor mount and the transmission torque link which is real easy, you do not have to remove the front or rear motor mounts at all. You do have to support the transmission although you will be surprised how little it drops.
I would definitely use those o-rings, they weren't available when I did mine but its good insurance.
Use an inert grease, non petroleum based so it doesn't break down the rubber after installation. If you use Volvo bushings you will be applying it to a plastic surface so its not really critical what you use.
You will need to use new bolts anyway for the bushings, they are about 6 bucks. The old bolts are more than adequate to make a simple "press" as I did, a longer bolt wouldn't be any advantage. Also, no wheel alignment is required after if it was close before.
The only other caution I would offer is to only drop the subframe as much as you need to, there's lots of sensitive things that you could damage by dropping it too far like the power steering pressure line and the steering shaft coupler, or a fuel line or some wiring, this list is non exhaustive.
It shouldn't take a novice more than an afternoon to do this job, just take your time and use lots of jack stands.
Hope this helps!
So.......
you can remove the bushings as a pair rear then front using the method I described with whatever brand you decide. Remove the left rear bolt for example, but only loosen the the right rear and right front bolt, this will give you enough room. As I recall, you will have to remove the passenger side motor mount and the transmission torque link which is real easy, you do not have to remove the front or rear motor mounts at all. You do have to support the transmission although you will be surprised how little it drops.
I would definitely use those o-rings, they weren't available when I did mine but its good insurance.
Use an inert grease, non petroleum based so it doesn't break down the rubber after installation. If you use Volvo bushings you will be applying it to a plastic surface so its not really critical what you use.
You will need to use new bolts anyway for the bushings, they are about 6 bucks. The old bolts are more than adequate to make a simple "press" as I did, a longer bolt wouldn't be any advantage. Also, no wheel alignment is required after if it was close before.
The only other caution I would offer is to only drop the subframe as much as you need to, there's lots of sensitive things that you could damage by dropping it too far like the power steering pressure line and the steering shaft coupler, or a fuel line or some wiring, this list is non exhaustive.
It shouldn't take a novice more than an afternoon to do this job, just take your time and use lots of jack stands.
Hope this helps!
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
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