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XC90 Rear Hatch Sticking Lever Repair Topic is solved

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America). P2 platform.
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MoVolvos
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XC90 Rear Hatch Sticking Lever Repair

Post by MoVolvos »

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Depending on the condition of the rear hatch lever you either unstick it, repair it or replace it. I suppose this could apply to many rear hatch or trunk levers. Since this 2012 XC90 is on probation, meaning not sure if it's a keeper, things will need to be address in order to have the minimal functions before full Stage O.

One of these items is the rear hatch handle. When you pull to open, it stays in the forward position unless you use a screw driver to push it back. Not wanting to incur the time and cost to replace the handle here is what I did to make it function normally. Yours may require repair or complete replacement per FCP.
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1) PBlaster'd and worked in the fluid. It helped the handle to return 4/5 of the way.
2) Using a small screw driver spread and pushed PTFE grease into the pivot points on the lever shaft.
3) Cut spring from Lowe's into 3 and zip tie together.
4) Insert spring with a zip tie pulling it back and secured to the lever spindle and trim zip tie.
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Hillman 2-Pack 3-1/2-in Zinc Gate Spring
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Pack ... ng/3115915
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2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Repair 1.png
2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Repair 1.png (317.51 KiB) Viewed 704 times
2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Repair 2.png
2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Repair 3.png
2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Repair 4.png
2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Repair 4.png (705.57 KiB) Viewed 704 times
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Blessings,

BKM


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Krons
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Post by Krons »

I had to lubricate mine too, easy enough now to push back in place manually. Looked at effort to replace or modify and was fine manually cycling it.
:D
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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

Krons wrote: 24 Jun 2024, 17:48 I had to lubricate mine too, easy enough now to push back in place manually. Looked at effort to replace or modify and was fine manually cycling it.
:D
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Mine was rusty and flaky but it returned on its own 4/5 of the way with just a spray of the PBlaster. May have been okay to leave it as such but thought it would be best to have it fully return in case it might bump loose.

I didn't want to disassemble it to clean, repair or replace either so came up with the return spring instead. With the zip tie around the spindle pulling the spring into the back it should hold for quite sometime. I was thinking of using that spring for the hood of the 2000 S70 but never got around to purchasing it. Do have an extra spring now in case I ever get to replacing the rear trailing arms of the S70.
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BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
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2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
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chitownV
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Post by chitownV »

I agree with Krons to just lube and can manually pull it back.

This zip-tie method is as backyard mechanic as it gets. It's dangerous placing a tensioned spring unsecured, outside a handle, with the liftgate that lifts in front of your face. What if a child or wife touches it or pulls on it. What if during a car wash the zip ties break.

In your picture, the pivoting pin is really rusty and that's what breaks.

I would not suggest not to do this at all. The proper way to fix this is really to replace the handle since the pivoting pin rusts and breaks.
2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 169k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Continental CrossContact LX25 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

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Post by MoVolvos »

chitownV wrote: 26 Jun 2024, 00:35 I agree with Krons to just lube and can manually pull it back. Both having been lubed mine returned 4/5 of the way without intervention. You should be encouraging Krons to replace his as you suggested in your last two sentences of the eminent broken pin.

This zip-tie method is as backyard mechanic as it gets. It's dangerous placing a tensioned spring unsecured, I know you meant zip-tie SECURED spring outside a handle, with the liftgate that lifts in front of your face. What if a child or wife touches it or pulls on it Perhaps this is your experience with your family but my wife and adult children has no interest or curiosity of cars. What if during a car wash the zip ties break. What's a car wash? If you are willing to pay for them we can test your assumption. Probably hand washed our car about 4 times in the last 8 years due to our great down pours.

In your picture, the pivoting pin is really rusty and that's what breaks. A link and picture would be most helpful.

I would not suggest not to do this at all. The proper way to fix this is really to replace the handle since the pivoting pin rusts and breaks. Let's see when Krons break being in worst shape than mine. As always you're going to have a last say but I've content with the content.
Blessings,

BKM


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Post by chitownV »

MoVolvos wrote: 26 Jun 2024, 12:51
chitownV wrote: 26 Jun 2024, 00:35 I agree with Krons to just lube and can manually pull it back. Both having been lubed mine returned 4/5 of the way without intervention. You should be encouraging Krons to replace his as you suggested in your last two sentences of the eminent broken pin.

This zip-tie method is as backyard mechanic as it gets. It's dangerous placing a tensioned spring unsecured, I know you meant zip-tie SECURED spring outside a handle, with the liftgate that lifts in front of your face. What if a child or wife touches it or pulls on it Perhaps this is your experience with your family but my wife and adult children has no interest or curiosity of cars. What if during a car wash the zip ties break. What's a car wash? If you are willing to pay for them we can test your assumption. Probably hand washed our car about 4 times in the last 8 years due to our great down pours.

In your picture, the pivoting pin is really rusty and that's what breaks. A link and picture would be most helpful.

I would not suggest not to do this at all. The proper way to fix this is really to replace the handle since the pivoting pin rusts and breaks. Let's see when Krons break being in worst shape than mine. As always you're going to have a last say but I've content with the content.
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That’s kind of off the rails there. If this method was meant for you, and only you, why post it as a guide for others?

Not sure why you are targeting Krons. Try not to get so sensitive from preferences that differ from yours.

There are XC90 owners that have years, if not decades, more XC90 exposure and experience than you do in your 2-3 month old XC90. 100k miles, even 200k+ miles more XC90 ownership & driving experience. That’s good as you too can learn from others.

BTW, be truthful and say that your initial suggestion was to leave the spring unsecured. You added a 3rd or 4th zip-tie to loop around the pivoting pin only after I said something about its safety. Of course there will be a question of a loaded spring added to the outside of the handle popping out on bumps while driving or when swinging the tailgate shut.

Please let us know if your 2-3 month old XC90 is drivable yet and are actually testing these methods in daily driving activities. Is your XC90 drivable yet?
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Post by ggleavitt »

Oh well, at least the behavior is consistent.

MoVolvos has a "fix" that he promotes on Swedespeed, Chitown doesn't like the approach and he makes scary safety related comments to help bolster his position. Couple seasoned members find humor in the response but he does not, thinks he's being treated unfairly and goes on a mini hissy fit before the mods shut down the post. Then he comes over to MVS and looks to continue the argument.

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/repa ... le.680609/
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Post by MoVolvos »

chitownV wrote: 27 Jun 2024, 01:36
MoVolvos wrote: 26 Jun 2024, 12:51
chitownV wrote: 26 Jun 2024, 00:35 I agree with Krons to just lube and can manually pull it back. Both having been lubed mine returned 4/5 of the way without intervention. You should be encouraging Krons to replace his as you suggested in your last two sentences of the eminent broken pin.

This zip-tie method is as backyard mechanic as it gets. It's dangerous placing a tensioned spring unsecured, I know you meant zip-tie SECURED spring outside a handle, with the liftgate that lifts in front of your face. What if a child or wife touches it or pulls on it Perhaps this is your experience with your family but my wife and adult children has no interest or curiosity of cars. What if during a car wash the zip ties break. What's a car wash? If you are willing to pay for them we can test your assumption. Probably hand washed our car about 4 times in the last 8 years due to our great down pours.

In your picture, the pivoting pin is really rusty and that's what breaks. A link and picture would be most helpful.

I would not suggest not to do this at all. The proper way to fix this is really to replace the handle since the pivoting pin rusts and breaks. Let's see when Krons break being in worst shape than mine. As always you're going to have a last say but I've content with the content.
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BTW, be truthful and say that your initial suggestion was to leave the spring unsecured. You added a 3rd or 4th zip-tie to loop around the pivoting pin only after I said something about its safety. Of course there will be a question of a loaded spring added to the outside of the handle popping out on bumps while driving or when swinging the tailgate shut.
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1) Yes, my initial fix was just to wedge the spring all the way to the back.
2) There were 2 small zip ties to hold the 3 low tension coils together which was cut from the one long spring. (Photo)
3) Then as in the 3 pictures just 1 zip tie to loop to the pivoting pin. Not sure why you have to write it's 3 or 4 zip ties around the pivot pin? (Photo) I hope it's not to make it look like it requires that many because it's so dangerous?
4) Since the handle area is not wedged / beveled outward my experience says it's fine.
5) You were concerned with the danger of the spring popping out, again which in my experience with working with all varieties of manufacturing machinery, popping out was unlikely.
6) Never the less the idea came to me to zip tie it.
7) Would you like credit for the zip tie?
8.) Since you knew it was done already from the post in the other forum I just wanted to remind you of your incorrect post here and that it was already done when I posted here.
9) I believe everything was clear in my post here, especially to you without having to rewrite all this.

As for Krons, my reply was to him directly. He is okay with lubing the pivots and to manually return the handle which I'm okay with also. You already know mine returned 4/5 of the way without intervention after lubing. With your vast expertise you should know mine is in better shape. Not sure why you have to insert yourself into our conversation? As such you didn't seem to be concerned with Krons handle breaking as you were with mine besides focusing on the spring. Writing about Kronos was hoping you would see the obvious that his lever was in worse shape so we can see how a worse condition holds up in time. Not sure why you would accuse me getting on him. He is adult enough and would say something if he thought I had some ill towards him so please don't falsely bear witness of me and Krons.

I hope this helps you as I don't have anything further to add that would help find you peace and closure on this subject.
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BKM


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chitownV
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Post by chitownV »

ggleavitt wrote: 27 Jun 2024, 08:10 Oh well, at least the behavior is consistent.

MoVolvos has a "fix" that he promotes on Swedespeed, Chitown doesn't like the approach and he makes scary safety related comments to help bolster his position. Couple seasoned members find humor in the response but he does not, thinks he's being treated unfairly and goes on a mini hissy fit before the mods shut down the post. Then he comes over to MVS and looks to continue the argument.

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/repa ... le.680609/
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No contribution to the thread topic regarding the handle.

Yup, everyone knows Ggleavitt will always take an opportunity to post anything against me. Long long long history of that. Ggleavitt is obsessed with me…long history of that. He’ll make excuses that he has to post just like here, he doesn’t, lol.

Ggleavitt sent me threatening messages. He also likes to send private messages to others trying to recruit teaming up against different forum posters. He wants others to publicly post for his grievances.

Make a note, Ggleavitt is supporting to use a loaded spring with 3-4 zip-ties as a fix.

*MoVolvos, don’t be so sensitive. Others can always see what you already posted. We can disagree on a cheap zip-tie fix. We can disagree on the level of quality and safety.

:?: Is your 2-3 month old XC90 drivable yet? Have you tested any of these fixes while daily driving and doing daily activities? Are you avoiding these questions?
2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 169k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Continental CrossContact LX25 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

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