Struggling with Front Subframe Bushings DIY Topic is solved

rntaboy · Post by **rntaboy** » 09 Jul 2024, 13:56

Decided to tackle replacing the front subframe bushings on my 2004 V70 2.5T on Sunday. Using the Blacklab467's guidance, I was able to make short work of the rear pair; I was able to use a bottle jack and some all-purpose grease, and the Volvo branded replacements pressed right in on my first tries. So I was pretty confident I'd be able to knock out the remaining front pair without much difficulty. I was very wrong.

Attempting the driver's side front bushing, I was having zero success getting it to press in like the rears did. I would pump up my floor jack, and it would just eventually lift the front of the car up, and the bushing would make no obvious progress, falling out as soon as I released the jack. I made countless attempts, with the same outcome. I decided to take a break, and coming back I thought it was worth a shot to just swap out the bushing I'd been trying to press with the one replacement I had remaining. And wouldn't you know that one pressed in with zero effort. Three down, one to go.

I had a suspicion something might be off with the bushing I'd been struggling. I had noted that one of the bushing I'd received looked 'different' than the others, having a dusty/powered coating, almost like bloom on chocolate, and having a dirty looking discoloration on parts of the plastic, and the voids more rubber ribbing left over compared to the others. But none of that seemed like a big deal, so I didn't pay much mind to that at the time, though it seemed like the bushing I was struggling with was the same one I'd noticed previously. But since that was mostly speculation, so I thought I worth a shot pressing it into the final front passenger location. With no success.

So I overnighted another bushing from FCP Euro. And when it arrived I wasn't very happy that it had similar visual issues to the one I was struggling with, but still tried to press it in. No success.

I really don't know what the issue might be. Struggling with the other front spot, I thought it could possibly be an issue with not enough weight being on the front of the car because of were I have my jack stands. It started the weekend working on my brakes, so the car was still on jack stands under the rear subframe bushings, jack stands under the pinch welds just behind the front wheels, and a bit of 2x4 on a jack stand holding up the transmission. But since I was able to swap out a bushing and had no issue pressing that on into a front location, it seemed like that setup wasn't a dealbreaker. I've even tried slightly sanding down the excess rubber/plastic collar at the suggestion of a mechanic friend, but that didn't help. I have another, non-OEM bushing coming from Amazon to see if that makes any difference, but would really appreciate any suggestions for changes or troubleshooting steps I should take to try to get a replacement bushing pressed into that final location. Or should I just call a mobile mechanic to help at this point?

TLDR: DIY pressing in front subframe bushings. Rear two pressed in easily with grease; struggled with front. But swapping out that new bushing for another worked. Still can't get remaining bushing or overnighted replacement into the last front location. Any suggestions for what to try?

Post by **BlackBart** » 09 Jul 2024, 14:18

Interesting, because I need to do this on the very same year XC. The sanding it a bit was a good idea, but there's something different about that corner - shape of the opening, amount of force on the jack like you said, the angle? Is it crooked and hanging up somehow?

Post by **scot850** » 09 Jul 2024, 15:12

Could you try fitting it with a threaded rod or long bolt and a couple of wide washers? If the angle is slightly off on that one corner, as suggested, maybe trying to push the bush in is not pushing it in straight wo it is binding? Using an impact gun may help overcome any friction between the bush and the subframe.

A light sanding may help on both the bush and the sub-frame. Use a fine paper to try to ensure as smooth surfaces as possible.

Good Luck!

Neil.

rntaboy · Post by **rntaboy** » 09 Jul 2024, 15:52

scot850 wrote: ↑09 Jul 2024, 15:12 Could you try fitting it with a threaded rod or long bolt and a couple of wide washers?

It does seem like something similar to the subframe mounting bolt that was about 2" longer might do the trick, but I don't really know where to find something like that. It's listed as a M14x100 bolt, and from some sketchy measuring it seems like thread pitch 2? Any suggestions on where to look for a bolt like that, or threaded rod, or tool, or anything, would be very much appreciated.

Edit: I found M14 x2 mm x 200 mm threaded rods from McMaster-Carr, so I ordered one of those and some matching nuts that I'm going to try to makeshift my own longer bolt from. Hopefully that's the correct specs and will do the trick. Still open to any other tips or suggestions, though.

Post by **scot850** » 09 Jul 2024, 16:39

What I am suggesting would require dropping the the subrame slightly on one end. So dropping the front slightly so you can get a washer and nut on the rear/top side of the subframe. The bolt only has to be long enough to reach the length of the bush under the subframe where you are trying to install it to a washer and nut on the top side of the subframe. Then a thread pitch it not an issue to be concerned with.

Neil.

Post by **Krons** » 09 Jul 2024, 16:54

I used the old subframe bolt and a Harbor Freight electric impact to drive them home. Just make sure they are squared up and straight before pulling the trigger.

Like this, watch at 1:27–

rntaboy · Post by **rntaboy** » 10 Jul 2024, 18:35

I ended up using the longer threaded rod with a couple of nuts torqued against each other for a makeshift bolt. Using that on one of the Volvo bushings I had been unsuccessful doing the initial press in with my jack, I again had no success. I would take a ton of care to ensure the bushing was starting in straight, but with wrenching it would inevitably tilt to one side. I tried this numerous times, with the similar results.

As a last resort for the day, I tried the MTC bushing I'd purchased off Amazon as a backup to my backup. And wouldn't you know I was able to wrench it almost entirely into place with no fuss on my first attempt. And was able to finish the pressing it in with my jack in short order.

I can't be 100% confident the issue was with those two Volvo bushings. But considering how much I struggled with them, yet had no problem with any of the other Volvo/MCT bushings I tried that all pressed in with ease on the first try, I still have much suspicion there was some manufacturing issue with the two problem ones.

Shout out to scot850 for the inspiration for my threaded rod solution.

Post by **scot850** » 10 Jul 2024, 19:30

Glad you got this figured out! What a pain you had to go through. It is weird that those 2 similar but different to the other 3 Volvo sub-frame bushes were seemingly un-useable. I would be talking to the supplier (Volvo dealer) about the fact you could not get them to fit. Easy to be smart after the event, but a micrometer on the inside dimensions of the mount hole in the subframe against the diameter of the bush would make an interesting comparison.

Neil.

AVOIT17 · Post by **AVOIT17** » 11 Jul 2024, 06:57

"I can't be 100% confident the issue was with those two Volvo bushings. But considering how much I struggled with them, yet had no problem with any of the other Volvo/MCT bushings I tried that all pressed in with ease on the first try, I still have much suspicion there was some manufacturing issue with the two problem ones."

...the only thing I can think of is that these 2 bushings were 'old'stock' - as rubber over-time react with the environment and may of swelled-up just a tiny bit enough to render the job very difficult. Polyurethan bushings would never have this issue - other than that, making sure the bushings are not old-stock would be the solution - however that could be a challenge.