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2006 V70 2.5t power steering rack leaking slowly

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Rvolvos
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Re: 2006 V70 2.5t power steering rack leaking slowly

Post by Rvolvos »

The balancing lines where still leaking after the O-ring replacement. Spend 1.5 day swapping the hard lines. The sub frame had to be lowered approximately 5 -8 inch, steering rack can stay in place to replace these hard lines. Front suspension too, I only disconnect the steering arm from the knuckle.
No luck still leaking. Looks like the o-rings are not being compressed enough. Tried putting a washer behind the collar of the hardline but still leaking.
Has anyone else experienced this?
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2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

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darrylrobert
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Post by darrylrobert »

I just replaced my steering rack with a used unit. Its actually not a bad job. One thing suprised me was one connection was finger tight but not leaking (assume low pressure) i re-used the o rings and they dont appear to be leaking. Only thing i regret doing is allowing the oil to seep/drip into the sub-frame causing it to appear like a leak after fitting the replacement rack. Anyway got it all cleaned up now and just need to drive it too check any leaks/ive ordered new o rings in case.
1981 260 GLE converted to 240 M46 after auto box failure
1987 740t auto converted to M47
1997 V70t5 auto converted to M56
1998 V70 factory M56 (parts car)
2001 XC70 factory M58
2002 XC70 auto (parts car)

v70waggin
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Post by v70waggin »

Facing the same problem :cry: Glad I'm not alone, did you ever figure this out @rvolvos?

So far I replaced the o-rings twice, it leaks even at idle without any steering load or input.

The leak originally started or was noticed after a small impact that broke the inner tie rod.
I replaced the tie rod and got an alignment, the car drove without any issues after topping off fluid, used a few oz every 100 miles.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by v70waggin on 14 Jul 2024, 21:17, edited 1 time in total.

Oro
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Post by Oro »

I stopped a slow leak on a Lexus by adding ester oil to condition seals. Worked great. I used Lubegard PSF. You can try their additive (transmission additive (red) is fine to use, not really any different in this regard than their dedicated PS additive). They make PSF, too, but pricey. Redline PSF or AT fluid should also be ester based and achieve the same effect.

v70waggin
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Post by v70waggin »

Oro wrote: 14 Jul 2024, 16:12 I stopped a slow leak on a Lexus by adding ester oil to condition seals. Worked great. I used Lubegard PSF. You can try their additive (transmission additive (red) is fine to use, not really any different in this regard than their dedicated PS additive). They make PSF, too, but pricey. Redline PSF or AT fluid should also be ester based and achieve the same effect.
Guessing you didn't read the thread @oro ?

Both the OP and myself replaced the seals, sometimes twice.

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Post by Oro »

v70waggin wrote: 14 Jul 2024, 20:03
Oro wrote: 14 Jul 2024, 16:12 I stopped a slow leak on a Lexus by adding ester oil to condition seals. Worked great. I used Lubegard PSF. You can try their additive (transmission additive (red) is fine to use, not really any different in this regard than their dedicated PS additive). They make PSF, too, but pricey. Redline PSF or AT fluid should also be ester based and achieve the same effect.
Guessing you didn't read the thread @oro ?

Both the OP and myself replaced the seals, sometimes twice.
You replaced every hose and seal?
Last edited by matthew1 on 15 Jul 2024, 07:41, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: edited for politeness

v70waggin
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Post by v70waggin »

I correctly traced the leak to the hard/transfer lines beyond certainty.

If new o-rings couldn't stop the leak, pretty certain "stop leak" won't.

I'm guessing it may be a clog in the system or PS pump is putting out too much pressure. Unsure how to test :|
Only have ever ran the recommended CHF202 at regular intervals and believe the previous owner has as well.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

v70waggin wrote: 15 Jul 2024, 10:18 I correctly traced the leak to the hard/transfer lines beyond certainty.

If new o-rings couldn't stop the leak, pretty certain "stop leak" won't.

I'm guessing it may be a clog in the system or PS pump is putting out too much pressure. Unsure how to test :|
Only have ever ran the recommended CHF202 at regular intervals and believe the previous owner has as well.
is it the unions or the hard line that leaks.
its a huge hassle but it would be easier to zero in if you pull the rack and lines,
then sit the rack on top of the engine and hook the lines up.
its much easier to examine if you get it in your hands.

v70waggin
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Post by v70waggin »

jonesg wrote: 15 Jul 2024, 20:40
v70waggin wrote: 15 Jul 2024, 10:18

is it the unions or the hard line that leaks.
its a huge hassle but it would be easier to zero in if you pull the rack and lines,
then sit the rack on top of the engine and hook the lines up.
its much easier to examine if you get it in your hands.
I'm thinking its not the hard-lines, about 99% sure because :
1. Its a California car, no corrosion
2. the transfer lines are attached to the rack, not much movement. I would think the supply line would blow first.
3. Most importantly Rvolvos, the OP installed new genuine Volvo/ZF lines and the problem continued, sent Rvolvos a pm to see if he ever found the root cause.

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hiroku
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Post by hiroku »

Hijacking this thread, since it didn't seem worthy of creating a new one.

My 2002 T5's power-steering is a leaky mess, so following the good advice on this forum I'm upgrading the reservoir and suction hose to the 2005-plus ones. But part of the damage is already done, and I'll need to spring for a new power steering pump as well.

Wondering what manufacturers people recommend? On the P80 platform it's pretty well catalogued which manufacturer supplies which parts that come in the OEM box, but can't seem to find the same information for the P2.

OEM Volvo is prohibitively expensive, and even decent aftermarket brands like TRW or Bosch are over 300€ without the core charge. I didn't want to fit a crappy 100€ pump off Auto-Doc and have to replace it again next year either, but seeing as the root problem that kills these pumps (crappy reservoir design) is being fixed, maybe a cheap part will last forever?

I'm a pretty indecisive individual, if you couldn't tell already.

Thanks!

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