Trouble removing driver's side CV from differential - '04 V70

jrschwit · Post by **jrschwit** » 02 Sep 2024, 07:08

I made a tool that reaches fully behind the CV ass'y next to the differential and am able to get very sharp raps with a slide hammer but no joy. I suspect the spline is dry and has fretting corrosion making it difficult for the spring clip to depress. The passenger side splines were dry and "rusty", what I believe to be fretting corrosion. Any ideas how to get the driver's side to release? Numerous online suggestions infer that the slide hammer method is the gold standard for stubborn CVs.

Related question - Why would the passenger side drive spline be dry? There is a seal outboard of the spline, inferring a requirement to keep liquid in and I would expect the lubrication of the diff to be splashing somewhat in that area. ATF level is proper, per the dipstick.

This is on a newly acquired '04 V70 with 200K miles and original CV axles. The passenger side CV boots were both torn but still had adequate grease to prevent undue wear. The driver's side boots are not yet cracked but definitely showing their age so I'd like to replace the boots while I'm at it.

Post by **Krons** » 02 Sep 2024, 08:10

I’d go with two pry bars to squarely pull on shaft vs a sharp rap with a slide hammer—you need to compress the circlip. More of a finesse move than brute force.

Good write up here:
viewtopic.php?t=99275

Post by **jonesg** » 02 Sep 2024, 08:23

keep rotating it to different positions between attempts.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 02 Sep 2024, 08:33

jonesg wrote: ↑02 Sep 2024, 08:23 keep rotating it to different positions between attempts.

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Been having trouble posting and being logged out or not post at all. We are on the same page.
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There is a lot to read and I'm sure it's in there somewhere but give this a try first. From reading a few post part of the problem is the open clip position facing up. That will hinder the compression so only rotating the axle 45 degrees each time and striking could help with popping it out.
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Post by **cn90** » 02 Sep 2024, 09:05

The trick from jimmy57 is to rotate the axle.
Once the C-clip's open ends face downwards, then it should come out.

I used a piece of cardboard (for protection) + cold chisel.
It will come out.
No need for excessive force.
Apply some grease during installation.

PS: this is the time to replace the seal.
Use only Volvo or Corteco.

I wrote the whole details in this forum.

jrschwit · Post by **jrschwit** » 03 Sep 2024, 07:15

Thanks for the comments. I've tried all the methods suggested above and have been able to pry very firmly with appropriate tools, alternating from side to side. I have not deliberately tried incrementally rotating the axle to orient the clip, though. Will continue to work it.....
Thanks

Post by **jonesg** » 03 Sep 2024, 11:44

jrschwit wrote: ↑03 Sep 2024, 07:15 Thanks for the comments. I've tried all the methods suggested above and have been able to pry very firmly with appropriate tools, alternating from side to side. I have not deliberately tried incrementally rotating the axle to orient the clip, though. Will continue to work it.....
Thanks

we had one that my buddy couldn't remove, he pulled the shaft from the socket and the splined end was still stuck, we put vice grips on the side of the cup and attached a slide hammer with a nut and bolt , stopped the vice grip from spring open with a steel band clamp around the handle, came loose with 2 hits.

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Sep 2024, 11:47

Aside from the comments to rotate, which seems is indeed the next order of action here:

With the chisel you incrementally increase a steady force by tapping the wedge upwards, it is neither prying (pry bar approach) nor whacking (slide hammer approach). Although you can rotate the chisel with a socket once it is fully seated, to apply more force.

Tapered wedge (e.g. chisel) is the gold standard!