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XC70 2001 Evap J hose RR

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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vtl  
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Re: THE CORRECT WAY TO REPLACE THE J HOSE ON A XC70

Post by vtl »

br0dy519 wrote: 13 Jun 2023, 16:36 On second scroll through photos: canister really just magically slides out towards you? I find it hard to believe the rear access of that assembly is that easy.
With the rear subframe permanently lowered 5/8" (via spacers) I still was unable to disconnect rear hoses from the canister. My hand barely fit there and I can't sufficiently grab the connectors. So when the time comes, I'll be lowering the subframe to get to the canister. Heck, I'll drop it and replace all the bushings :)

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

BlackBart wrote: 23 Jun 2023, 12:15 Thanks. So all XC70s have this system? I should take a look under there. Is this a common problem? Is it a high mileage thing?
Yes; a general consensus is that the J hose life is 100,000 miles.
--
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

antoon6
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Post by antoon6 »

Would you mind adding a caption to each picture so that I can follow what you are doing? Thank you

antoon6
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Post by antoon6 »

Also add arrow to what I should focus on in each picture so I can follow. Thanks

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packetfire
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Post by packetfire »

A REBUTTAL To The Purported "CORRECT WAY..."

I had the same annoying problem, and yep - Volvo hides that evap canister and J-Hose in the WORST possible place on v70s, atop the rear axle, which COULD mean removing exhaust. But fear not, fellow Volvo caregiver - you are FAR SMARTER than to be so bold as to pull apart the exhaust, as you know that it will only end in tears, writing checks in large amounts, and so on.

Leave the exhaust alone! Yes, you'll need a lift, but loosen the bolts that hold that SUBFRAME (see photo below, outlined in red), drop it down a bit, and get the guy with the smallest hands (perhaps enlist a small child in the effort) to reach in and do the surgery to remove and replace the hose. Before he reaches in there, you need the two BIGGEST guys prying down with big fat pry-bars so you can slide in some nice fat scrap steel to keep the subframe jammed "open". Angle iron, inserted in the orientation of the letter "V" worked very well here. We used 4 pieces. "Safety First!" ;)

(This is properly called "Laparoscopic surgery", as that's for gastrointestinal issues. "Arthroscopic surgery" is for joints, and an evap hose is clearly gastrointestinal".)

That's it! In and out in less than one hour total, The evap canister stayed where it was, and no exhaust components were harmed in the making of this film.
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1982 240DL: Drove it 32 years and 1.5 million miles (sold, even still had mint leather!)
2001 v70 2.4T: The most expensive $1500 car I ever bought ("Volvo Turbo" - what an oxymoron!) (sold)
2004 v70: Far less fatally-flawed v70 - It served well (sold)
2010 v50: Smaller, slightly sportier wagon. Its got a spoiler, so I upgraded with sway bars!

AylmerQc
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Post by AylmerQc »

Can this hose be inspected fairly easily beforehand?

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packetfire
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Post by packetfire »

AylmerQc wrote: 03 Sep 2024, 05:56 Can this hose be inspected fairly easily beforehand?
It is hard to see without one of those cameras on a cable that connect to phones and PCs you can buy from China for $15, but the TEST is actually easy - VIDA has a whole test sequence to check the EVAP system, and if the evap system is leaking, you'll have a check engine light and a "major leak in EVAP" code thrown.

You or a mechanic can also "smoke test" the evap system (lots of videos about this, and lots of homebrew smoke test machines to make), but I am not sure you will be able to see the smoke coming from the J-hose place where it typically fails (right at the evap canister) unless you first pull down the sub-frame as a I mention above or start removing exhaust components.

If it ain't leaking don't fix it, but if you are replacing exhaust components on a high-miles car (250K an up) I'd replace that J-Hose on general principals while it is easy and cheap to do so. Old rubber is not a good bet.
1982 240DL: Drove it 32 years and 1.5 million miles (sold, even still had mint leather!)
2001 v70 2.4T: The most expensive $1500 car I ever bought ("Volvo Turbo" - what an oxymoron!) (sold)
2004 v70: Far less fatally-flawed v70 - It served well (sold)
2010 v50: Smaller, slightly sportier wagon. Its got a spoiler, so I upgraded with sway bars!

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I’ve probably gone through three J hoses on my p80s but my one
P2 is still on the factory original from Ghent in 11.2004

I don’t think these die as often as the p80
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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

Well presented, Mr packetfire.

The enlistment of s small child is a trick I hadn’t thought of!

I’m at 140k on an ‘04 XC70.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Why aren't exhaust made with exhaust grade PVC such as Schedule E?
--
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

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