$10,000 S80 Challenge Topic is solved

[abscate]

Those Covid years really skewed your cost of ownership. Anyone who didn’t pull their car off the insurance probably had horrible cost per mile statistics.

[pgill]

ABSCATE,

I appreciate you pointing that out.

However we should give credit to the person that called for 15 cents per mile for parts.
The actual was closer to 18 cents but that was a very good estimate.

Wait...........that was you (4 years ago).......well done!!!!

10 cents per mile for maintenance over 10 years?

No.

15 cents for parts, 10-15 cents for labor, minimum

I point this out not just to give credit to ABSCATE but also to show that the advice you will get here on MVS is amazing.

This is why MVS is the best VOLVO site and why I started the thread here and not on a different site.

Take Care

Paul

[abscate]

If I have seen further it is only by standing on the shoulders of giants..

-Isaac Abscate

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

I replaced the PCV on the S80

I got an original part but in a plain brown box for slightly over $100 (about 50% off as compared to the cost if you get it in a Volvo Box)

Get the part Marked FoMoCo (your original PCV should have this mark also)



Here is a picture showing what a failed PCV looks like (the channel in the lower right shouldn't have any oil)

S80 Failed PCV





Here is a similar picture from my LR2.

In this case I replaced the PCV preventatively and it hadn't failed

Working LR2 3.2 PCV




The small Channel in the picture is after the PCV Valve and it is exposed to full engine vacuum but because the port on the side is higher than the floor some liquid can collect here. A working valve should not have any liquid.


Why is this important

1. A failed PCV will allow for more oil to enter the engine.

2. This oil can foul the sparkplugs and cause misfires (the S80 had this happen)

3. The ECU will attempt to drive the coil pack harder to clear the misfire (which can cause the coil pack to fail)

4. If the misfire isn't corrected quickly then the catalytic converter can be damaged



For my LR2 I was a bit paranoid and I replaced the PCV at 10 years before it had failed.
But for the S80 I was attempting to be a bit more conservative with the cost and I didn't replace the PCV until the misfires occurred.
Note: I did look at Misfire counts but they we very low until the oil Fouled the Sparkplug on #2.

I do like my 3.2 but it doesn't tolerate a lack of maintenance.


Link to when I replaced the PCV on my LR2

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post428440.html#428440

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

I don't get to see the S80 much anymore.

My Niece has it now.

But I did get to change the oil and test drive it the other day.

S80_7_23.jpg (41.29 KiB) Viewed 2249 times

I also checked the misfire count and it was 1 misfire on one of the cylinders and all of the others were ZERO.
This is normal my LR2 will have a random misfire typically on a cold start.

I am sharing this because its been about 7 months and over 5,000 mile and everything is stable.

The only significant change was the PCV replacement.
An aftermarket part but marked with FOMOCO.

The replacement PCV seems to have made enough of a difference that the Sparkplugs are no longer getting oil fouled and setting misfire codes.

I do have two Sparkplugs with a hotter heat range on the shelf just in case but so far they are not needed.

I am no longer tracking the cost on the S80, so I won't update that here any longer.


Take care

Paul


PS I did notice that the washer fluid was leaking and I will likely help my niece fix that.

[proanglerh1]

MVS Readers,

I haven't posted for a couple weeks.

I am still fighting the vibration at the front end of my S80.

Here is what I've done.

1. replaced the front right wheel bearing

2. replaced the front left wheel bearing

3. had the wheel balance checked at my trusted tire store (and discussed possible alignment issues with the technicians)


Here is where the story gets convoluted. After replacing the wheel bearing things seem improved but still not as good as it was two years ago. Replacing the bearing is time consuming and I was anticipating a better outcome.

So I went to the tire store to get the balance checked and it wasn't perfect but it didn't take much bring it into specification (this is the same store that balanced these tires originally and I use them for all of my cars). After the minor balance change the vibration seemed about the same.

Note: the front tires are worn strangely, if you run you hand around the tire clockwise it is reasonably smooth however counterclockwise has ridges that catch your hand. The technician at the tire store told me that a small balance problem and/or an alignment problem won't cause that to happen. He indicated that I need Struts/Shocks.

The ride is really nice on the S80 so I have resisted changing the Struts. But I trust the Technician at the Tire store and so you can guess what I recently ordered.

The tool that I bought on EBay to remove the wheel bearing worked well with the exception that I had to install some spacers to press the new bearing in (I used the pins that came in the kit but they were too long so I had to lay them flat instead of inserting in the holes)

For removal the tool worked as expected.

Some pictures.

Note: the old Jack handles and the 1/2 craftsman ratchet that I very rarely use (it is 30 years old)

IMG_7740.jpg

IMG_7741.jpg

IMG_7745.jpg

Here is the new bearing installed

IMG_7702.jpg

Take care

Paul

PS the front brake rotors we getting rather worn out so I decide to replace them while I was in there. Amazon will lower the price of their inventory if it doesn't sell so I got two extremely high quality rotors for an amazing price. List price is $155 for the pair and I paid $29. EBC Brakes RK1500 RK.

Do you have the link for this tool or what size it is? I see theres several sizes on ebay 78mm, 82mm, etc. Thanks!

[pgill]

The Tool that I purchased from EBAY is currently not available

Item ID 284665297565

Gen2 Wheel Hub Bearing Unit Tool for Ford Land Rover VOLVO 82mm Install Remove


But I would suspect that another 82 mm tool should work fine


Good luck

Paul


Here is a tool that should work as well

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334954827712?c ... 5kQAvD_BwE

[ironbrick]

Best. Thead. Ever! Just say'n.

Bought 2007 S80 3.2 in 2018 with 98k for $6k, used as college car for a few years.
Now I'm driving it because I really like it!
144k now and really enjoying this oldie and was inspired by @pgill to stick with it after the belt pulley melted, and took out the belt at around 115k fearing the car overheated. Still going nicely! Carbon fouling on Cylinder #1's plug, but I'm not too worried

[pgill]

Very Nice.

My niece has the S80 now but I did drive my Daughters LR2 today with the same 3.2

You wrote Carbon Fouling on Cylinder #1 as a statement but i am going to share what I would do in your situation just in case you are interested

1. Replace the PCV with a OEM FOMOCO part if you haven't already

2. Switch to an oil that will help with deposits on the oil control rings, I would try Valvoline Restore and Protect
(there are more aggressive solutions but I would start here)

3. Switch to a hotter sparkplug for cylinder #1 IKH16TT instead of IKH20TT and only use 91 or higher gasoline

4. get a code reader that will show raw misfire counts so that you can track you progress more easily


The source of the carbon can be from the PCV, Pistons, Intake Valve guides or a leaking injector.

The PCV will allow more oil into the intake which will accelerate the carbon fouling problem.
I am assuming that your plugs are oil fouled (it is possible that an injector is leaking and the extra gas is causing the carbon fouling).
The Valvoline Restore and Protect should help if the problem is the oil control ring on the piston.


Note: the hotter sparkplug will help to burn off the carbon where ever it is coming from



Good luck

Paul

[Skymongrel]

Paul, what brand of front strut did you buy? I'm thinking of replacing mine with a quick strut but not sure which brand to buy. BTW I like the KYB video for the Land Rover strut replacement. One thing I noticed was where he put the crow bar to lower the ball joint for reinstallation. He put the tip of the crow bar in a slot on the lower control arm!! Why didn't I see that!