How-to: Replacing the Thermostat Housing on a Newer P2 Without Touching the Power Steering
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Ejbdunes
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- Year and Model: 2007 XC70
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Re: How-to: Replacing the Thermostat Housing on a Newer P2 Without Touching the Power Steering
Just replaced the thermostat housing using this guide. Only hiccup was losing one of the T40s temporarily. Total time would have been about an hour. Thanks for the write up!
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cn90
- Posts: 8249
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- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
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- A little trick taught to me years ago: when dealing with difficult location (such as the lower bolt)...
---> Stuff some rag or paper towel underneath in case the bolt falls off, it is easier to retrieve.
---> Put a tiny piece of paper towel between the Torx socket and the bolt head to wedge it in place to prevent it from falling off.
- Question for the forum: when did your tsat (age in years/odo reading) fail?
---> Stuff some rag or paper towel underneath in case the bolt falls off, it is easier to retrieve.
---> Put a tiny piece of paper towel between the Torx socket and the bolt head to wedge it in place to prevent it from falling off.
- Question for the forum: when did your tsat (age in years/odo reading) fail?
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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chris11211
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You don't need to drive the car at all to refill the coolant. You can just run it parked, fill up the entire reservoir, and it'll naturally suck up the water so you'd be done in about 15 min depending on the outside temperature. Of course, if you want to hurry it up then just rev up the engine.
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cn90
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So,
I just bought a Tekton T40 socket (6" long), PN SHB14440.
It says 6" long but the usable portion is only 5" long as shown.
It is about $6-$10 online (eBay etc.).
In a perfect world, remove the 4 bolts on PS Pump and set it aside, but some may not have the
serpentine belt Torx tool.
So, if you replace it in situ, options are:
1. As I mentioned previously, swap ONLY the Upper housing + Tstat itself + ECT sensor.
This is the easiest way.
2. Now, if you insist on replacing the whole Tstat housing, then undo the Rad Hose + and Smaller Hose.
Then you can get access to the upper and lower bolts.
Best is to remove the Upper Housing, then it is much easier.
To install the bolts without dropping them, use tiny piece of paper towel to wedge the T40 bit into the head
of the bolt (an old trick taught to me years ago). Practice it outside of the car and you will see.
Anyway, pic of the tool in case you want to buy it...
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I just bought a Tekton T40 socket (6" long), PN SHB14440.
It says 6" long but the usable portion is only 5" long as shown.
It is about $6-$10 online (eBay etc.).
In a perfect world, remove the 4 bolts on PS Pump and set it aside, but some may not have the
serpentine belt Torx tool.
So, if you replace it in situ, options are:
1. As I mentioned previously, swap ONLY the Upper housing + Tstat itself + ECT sensor.
This is the easiest way.
2. Now, if you insist on replacing the whole Tstat housing, then undo the Rad Hose + and Smaller Hose.
Then you can get access to the upper and lower bolts.
Best is to remove the Upper Housing, then it is much easier.
To install the bolts without dropping them, use tiny piece of paper towel to wedge the T40 bit into the head
of the bolt (an old trick taught to me years ago). Practice it outside of the car and you will see.
Anyway, pic of the tool in case you want to buy it...
---
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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cn90
- Posts: 8249
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OK,
The 2006 S60 with 106K miles needs some basic maintenance...
- I combined the tstat job (I use Facet brand this time, made in Italy) with the infamous Banjo bolt replacement.
- Also cleaned the PCV orifice.
1. You must watch the youtube video on P2 S60 alternator by FCPEuro as posted above but:
- No need to d/c the PS hose/line (it is messy), once the PS Pump bolts are removed, you can simply
swing the PS Pump sideways.
- You can remove the Upper Rad hose (7-mm wrench) to make it easier: optional.
- FCPEuro video keeps saying 12-mm bolts, but all the bolts (PS Pump and Alternator) in the 2006 S60
were 10-mm.
- D/c the battery ground cable first.
2. Serpentine belt: T60 + special serp belt tool (Harbor Freight).
3. Remove the oil dipstick and set it aside, cover the dipstick housing with glove to prevent debris
from falling inside.
The large Turbo Cooler hose: remove it (7-mm clamp).
The plastic lid/housing for ECU/TCU...it takes 1 min to remove it...this gives you better access for the ratchet etc.
4. PS Pump: 3 mounting bolts and 1 bolt holding the bracket. All = 10-mm.
5. Alternator: 3 bolts. All = 10-mm. I did not d/c the battery cable, I left it attached bc all I need was a
loose alternator so I can move it around. No need to take it out of engine compartment.
NOTE: I was "lazy" and did not loosen the AC compressor's 2 BOTTOM bolts. During reinstallation of the alternator, I could not get it in that tight space. Took 30 min to find out I needed to loosen (do not remove) the bottom 2 bolts of the AC compressor!
6. The infamous banjo bolt (17-mm) can now be removed.
NOTE the 2 copper washers. You can use new washers.
I simply re-used these washers, just make sure they come back to the same orientation.
The side facing the Banjo bolt will have slight indentation.
7. I used a grass trimmer spool to clean the PCV orifice.
This hard plastic is famous for breaking if you do the PCV the other way (removing the intake manifold).
When you clean the orifice this way (with the I.M. in situ), you minimize the risks of breaking the hard plastic pipe.
---> If you ever break the plastic pipe, no need to panic, search forum for a rubber hose to span the broken ends:
I wrote it up a while ago.
That is it boys and girls, if you combine the thermostat job with the PCV Banjo bolt/cleaning the PCV orifice, you
save a lot of hassles...
---
---
The 2006 S60 with 106K miles needs some basic maintenance...
- I combined the tstat job (I use Facet brand this time, made in Italy) with the infamous Banjo bolt replacement.
- Also cleaned the PCV orifice.
1. You must watch the youtube video on P2 S60 alternator by FCPEuro as posted above but:
- No need to d/c the PS hose/line (it is messy), once the PS Pump bolts are removed, you can simply
swing the PS Pump sideways.
- You can remove the Upper Rad hose (7-mm wrench) to make it easier: optional.
- FCPEuro video keeps saying 12-mm bolts, but all the bolts (PS Pump and Alternator) in the 2006 S60
were 10-mm.
- D/c the battery ground cable first.
2. Serpentine belt: T60 + special serp belt tool (Harbor Freight).
3. Remove the oil dipstick and set it aside, cover the dipstick housing with glove to prevent debris
from falling inside.
The large Turbo Cooler hose: remove it (7-mm clamp).
The plastic lid/housing for ECU/TCU...it takes 1 min to remove it...this gives you better access for the ratchet etc.
4. PS Pump: 3 mounting bolts and 1 bolt holding the bracket. All = 10-mm.
5. Alternator: 3 bolts. All = 10-mm. I did not d/c the battery cable, I left it attached bc all I need was a
loose alternator so I can move it around. No need to take it out of engine compartment.
NOTE: I was "lazy" and did not loosen the AC compressor's 2 BOTTOM bolts. During reinstallation of the alternator, I could not get it in that tight space. Took 30 min to find out I needed to loosen (do not remove) the bottom 2 bolts of the AC compressor!
6. The infamous banjo bolt (17-mm) can now be removed.
NOTE the 2 copper washers. You can use new washers.
I simply re-used these washers, just make sure they come back to the same orientation.
The side facing the Banjo bolt will have slight indentation.
7. I used a grass trimmer spool to clean the PCV orifice.
This hard plastic is famous for breaking if you do the PCV the other way (removing the intake manifold).
When you clean the orifice this way (with the I.M. in situ), you minimize the risks of breaking the hard plastic pipe.
---> If you ever break the plastic pipe, no need to panic, search forum for a rubber hose to span the broken ends:
I wrote it up a while ago.
That is it boys and girls, if you combine the thermostat job with the PCV Banjo bolt/cleaning the PCV orifice, you
save a lot of hassles...
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- Volvo-S60-Tstat-01.jpg (127.51 KiB) Viewed 790 times
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- Volvo-S60-Tstat-02.jpg (139.84 KiB) Viewed 790 times
Last edited by cn90 on 02 Nov 2024, 21:20, edited 1 time in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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br0dy519
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All the power to those who want to try this. But from a guy that has replaced 2 stats, 4 alternators, and multi PS hoses. Remove the damn serp belt and ps pulley. It takes 20 min and saves hours of aggravation. Attenpting This method had me losing my mind on the 2.5T
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
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