Since I purchased this car from a used car dealership, I have been replacing the oil and filter every 3,000 kilometers. I will give that lifter additive a try. I hope it is effective.DennisCA wrote: ↑26 Nov 2024, 05:14 I also use 5W40 full synth oil in my Volvo, also in my Yaris and Saab 900. I do not believe engine oil additives do much unless you already got a problem then maybe it's worth trying. 5W40 seems to be very common in the nordic countries. My Mazda uses 5W30, the odd one out.
I try and avoid having those problems in the first place by replacing filter and oil every 10,000km or every year, whichever comes first.
Ticking Noise! Volvo 850! Help...
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BeerDeer
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Re: Ticking Noise! Volvo 850! Help...
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Clemens
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back in the day people woul add a bit of ATF to the engine oil before an oilchange to clean the lifters, if I remember correctly.
One of my Volvos has sticky lifters in winter if my wife drives it for a few days. After I drive it, the noise is gone. They need rpms!
One of my Volvos has sticky lifters in winter if my wife drives it for a few days. After I drive it, the noise is gone. They need rpms!
Summer: 1996 855 R
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V
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BeerDeer
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For me the sound is the same as always. It doesn't go awayClemens wrote: ↑26 Nov 2024, 15:23 back in the day people woul add a bit of ATF to the engine oil before an oilchange to clean the lifters, if I remember correctly.
One of my Volvos has sticky lifters in winter if my wife drives it for a few days. After I drive it, the noise is gone. They need rpms!
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JimBee
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My ten cents worth (inflation, you know). If it's a ticking (light metallic sound), it's probably worn or gunked up lifters or as others have noted possibly injectors. Almost certainly something up top. It could also be a worn bushing in the steering pump if the tick is cycling with revolutions of the pulley.
A rod knock is a deeper, heavier sound, not a ticking. A wrist pin or piston slap typically sound between a rod knock and a lifter tick. Plus if a rod or main bearing is loose enough to knock your oil pressure light will likely be lit and you wouldn't want to run it for long like that.
A bent connecting rod will sound more distinctively like tinking, as the crankshaft's counter weight grazes the piston skirt on each revolution (I had one, had to replace the rod).
Use a hosophone to track the source better. Keeping CLEAR of moving parts, use a short piece of heater hose held to your ear, the other end placed on top of the engine in various places. I'd first eliminate (or confirm) the power steering pump. Just place the end of the hose on the ps fluid tank. Again, being careful of moving parts! That pump also has a seal which can be replaced, usually by a shop that services pumps.
Then onto the top of the engine with your hose. If it's lifters, you'll hear them distinctly with the hose on top of the cylinder head.
Side notes. PS fluid. Engine off of course, siphon out all the fluid you can from the pump reservoir, then fill part way with Amsoil auto trans fluid, run engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to circulated fluid. Engine off drain all ps pump fluid again and then fill with Amsoil. Use Amsoil to top up as needed. Your rack seals will last longer. I also use Amsoil AT fluid in my manual trans 850's; they have very smooth shifting.
A rod knock is a deeper, heavier sound, not a ticking. A wrist pin or piston slap typically sound between a rod knock and a lifter tick. Plus if a rod or main bearing is loose enough to knock your oil pressure light will likely be lit and you wouldn't want to run it for long like that.
A bent connecting rod will sound more distinctively like tinking, as the crankshaft's counter weight grazes the piston skirt on each revolution (I had one, had to replace the rod).
Use a hosophone to track the source better. Keeping CLEAR of moving parts, use a short piece of heater hose held to your ear, the other end placed on top of the engine in various places. I'd first eliminate (or confirm) the power steering pump. Just place the end of the hose on the ps fluid tank. Again, being careful of moving parts! That pump also has a seal which can be replaced, usually by a shop that services pumps.
Then onto the top of the engine with your hose. If it's lifters, you'll hear them distinctly with the hose on top of the cylinder head.
Side notes. PS fluid. Engine off of course, siphon out all the fluid you can from the pump reservoir, then fill part way with Amsoil auto trans fluid, run engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to circulated fluid. Engine off drain all ps pump fluid again and then fill with Amsoil. Use Amsoil to top up as needed. Your rack seals will last longer. I also use Amsoil AT fluid in my manual trans 850's; they have very smooth shifting.
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