Volvo 850 1996 / Tranmission or PNP or what? Topic is solved

Post by **Clemens** » 10 Dec 2024, 00:49

Yes, you can run with the tube disconnected. The biggest problem is that you might get oil all over the motor, so you want to check for oil around the open hole and wipe it away frequently.

BeerDeer · Post by **BeerDeer** » 10 Dec 2024, 08:58

Clemens wrote: 10 Dec 2024, 00:49 Yes, you can run with the tube disconnected. The biggest problem is that you might get oil all over the motor, so you want to check for oil around the open hole and wipe it away frequently.

Thank you for your help. It seems I may have ordered the wrong PCV kit—it’s for a non-turbo engine with an EGR. I’m not sure if my car has an EGR system. How can I confirm this? I tried to locate an EGR module but couldn’t find anything obvious under the hood.

Could you guide me on how to check if my car has an EGR system? I’d appreciate any tips or details on what to look for.

Post by **erikv11** » 10 Dec 2024, 13:48

BeerDeer wrote: 10 Dec 2024, 00:29
Thank you. Also running with the main pcv tube disconnected at the top is not bad right? (Temporarily) so I don't get any other blown seals.

This is okay yes, it just may be messy. Probably the top of the cam cover will get oily. Temporarily is fine but if you left it for long time then the coils could get damaged by accumulated oil.

Oops I did not see the replay from Clemens, I agree with his post.

To determine if there is EGR, the best way is to look for the EGR valve under the intake manifold. This video from Robert shows it pretty well it is right in the center of the opening pic (it is a little out of focus):

Also this old thread looks pretty useful: viewtopic.php?t=19549

DennisCA · Post by **DennisCA** » 10 Dec 2024, 23:57

I believe if you have an SAS (Secondary Air System) pump you do not have an EGR. The SAS pump would have a hose from the air intake box going down the front and under the battery where the air pump is.

BeerDeer · Post by **BeerDeer** » 11 Dec 2024, 09:41

Another issue popped up today. When I tried starting the car, it didn’t crank or move at all (see attached for reference). Oddly enough, about an hour later, it started perfectly fine. To be proactive, I went ahead and bought a new battery, as the old one was 5 years old.

It’s funny how everything seems to break at once—what luck!

Now I’m researching how to test the starter and alternator to rule out any other issues.

For the alternator, is the proper method to start the car and measure the voltage at the battery? If the voltage keeps dropping, it would indicate an alternator issue, right? Alternatively, should I turn on high-load items like the AC, radio, lights, and fans to see if the voltage drops too low? What’s the ideal voltage range—13V to 14V?

As for the starter, I’ve seen methods where you test for voltage by placing one pin on the red starter cable and the other pin on a ground. Is that correct? Should I be looking for a 14V reading from the battery to the starter?

Thanks again for your help! I’m determined to keep my Volvo going

BeerDeer · Post by **BeerDeer** » 12 Dec 2024, 14:40

DennisCA wrote: 10 Dec 2024, 23:57 I believe if you have an SAS (Secondary Air System) pump you do not have an EGR. The SAS pump would have a hose from the air intake box going down the front and under the battery where the air pump is.

Do you know how to measure alternator or starter?

DennisCA · Post by **DennisCA** » 13 Dec 2024, 00:04

I believe you can just measure voltage at the battery. How to measure amperage though, I believe you need a special tool for that.

BeerDeer · Post by **BeerDeer** » 13 Dec 2024, 02:38

DennisCA wrote: 13 Dec 2024, 00:04 I believe you can just measure voltage at the battery. How to measure amperage though, I believe you need a special tool for that.

Thank you for your help! I have another question about the starter. How can I determine if the starter is functioning properly? Is there a way to test or measure the cables connecting the alternator and starter to the battery? I’ve read that these cables can degrade over time and cause issues like the ones I experienced.

For now, I’ve replaced the battery with a model recommended by Motonet (MTX), and I haven’t had any problems since. However, I’d like to rule out any potential issues with the starter or cables to avoid future trouble.

Thanks again for your guidance!

DennisCA · Post by **DennisCA** » 13 Dec 2024, 02:59

I haven't needed to check the cabling so I don't really know. I would assume you would have to find and trace the cables and visually inspect them for damage.

You originally suspected the PNP switch, have you ruled that one out? I think this advice here might be relevant for you:
viewtopic.php?p=346587#p346587

BeerDeer · Post by **BeerDeer** » 13 Dec 2024, 03:32

DennisCA wrote: 13 Dec 2024, 02:59 I haven't needed to check the cabling so I don't really know. I would assume you would have to find and trace the cables and visually inspect them for damage.

You originally suspected the PNP switch, have you ruled that one out? I think this advice here might be relevant for you:
viewtopic.php?p=346587#p346587

Not yet—I’m finding it a bit challenging to troubleshoot on my own. I don’t have any friends nearby, and my family is in another city. So, it’s just me trying to fix my Volvo in a public parking lot!

As for the PNP issue, the reverse lights randomly stopped working. I’ve checked the bulbs at the back, and they’re fine—they just don’t light up when I shift into reverse. There’s no warning arrow or error showing on the dashboard, so I’m not sure what’s causing the problem.