ABS resistance checks out, module repaired, still have codes

[abscate]

For as well engineered as the 96-98 cars were I never understood why the front abs wires were part of the actual harness without a plug-in to replace them. They did it from 99 on though.

1999 is for people who get nice things….

I must have resoldered by rear 1999 brake abs sensor wire 6x before finally breaking down and buying the $40 ATE part. Those small wires are hard to solder and keep from breaking in flex

[Brickbox8398]

Update. So i'm having ABS issues with the RF sensor again. All was good for a couple hundred miles until I removed the module to "final" seal it, since I had only taped it up until I knew it was fixed. Go figure it breaks again after i seal it up! Anyway, I replaced the sensor just to rule that out and it did not fix it. So i removed the module for the 7th time and checked resistance at the RF sensor joints on the board (18+3). Found that the resistance went back down to the kOhm range. This confirms I again have a bad connection on the board since the LF sensor which works, reads in the MOhm range (for those just seeing this thread, see my first post). It took MANY cycles of reheating, attempting to remove solder (the solder popper only does so much), checking resistance, reheating, adding a little solder, to get these pins back into the MOhm range. I put it back together and it worked for a mile then it was bad again.

I believe there is something beyond my knowledge going on here. Possibly related to compatibility of the OEM solder, and the Amazon stuff I am using? Almost like the joint is rejecting solder maybe? I am fairly certain I am getting the joints hot enough, my iron claims 60W and I had it dialed all the way up. I am going to try a different solder wire that has lead in it because I believe it makes a better joint from what i've heard. And apparently the solder that these boards are made with is lead-free so it is hard and brittle. Just a theory that I am fighting something on that regard. I will also try getting some of that solder wicking material so I can clean up the joint a little better.

If I still can't get it then i will probably cave and send it off to MattyMoo.

[scot850]

I would start with Matty Moo. However, check with him as he may not be keen on working on a unit that has been worked on previously. Also check with him if he has any 'ugly' units for sale. These (if he has one suitable for your car), are typically cheaper to clear them out. They work perfectly but may be visually compromised as units others worked on previously he has been able to repair.

Neil.

[Clemens]

+1 on sending it to MattyMoo.
I don't know how many times I resoldered the module on my 96 R, but after a few months or a year the light would be back on. Finally I decided that I wanted to get it done right, and I never looked back.