1990s 940 Station Wagon - Buying Advice Topic is solved

[callumalden]

Hello serious Volvo people, I drove a 240 for years and I loved it and hated every other car I have been made to drive. Obviously.

I am currently in Spain trying to buy a car. Nearby I found a 1994 940, 2.3 16V advertised for sale. Teal. No mention of trim, it appears to read ST_W on the tailgate. New belts, just serviced, new tyres. Importantly... comes from Salt free roads. Anyway, by Spanish standards it could be a reasonable enough price after a little haggle. Where's the catch?

I have spent three months searching for cars here, it is a long story. Basically we either need a really cheap car that will allow us to get from A-B (and eventually to Germany where I would buy a decent car in time) or something for the long run, a AWD would be preferable... but I'd settle for something as safe and solid and reliable as a 900 series if the price is right.

I really enjoyed keeping my 240 up to date, it grew into my hobby. Happy to do the same on a car that I am capable of understanding.

Any specific knowledge about 1994 940´s that a layman should know about?

The only outstanding issue the seller explains: the overdrive sometimes seems to give resistance, hard to engage. I see from another forum some solid suggestions which I will raise with the seller, find out what he has tried first.

Here's my list of questions so far.

General Questions:
- Why are you selling the car?
- How many years have you owned this car?
- Do the speedometer and odometer work correctly?
- Do you have a maintenance history or repair invoices?

Maintenance & Engine:
- When was the last maintenance? Have the oil and filters been changed recently? In KM and Months.
- When was the timing belt last changed?
- Does the car burn through engine oil?
- When were the spark plugs last changed?
- Has the mass air flow sensor (MAF) been cleaned, maintained, or recently replaced?
- When was the fuel filter last changed?
- Has the thermostat ever been replaced?
- Has the engine ever been overhauled or rebuilt? If yes, when?
- Are there any known oil or coolant leaks?
- Does the engine overheat or has it ever shown signs of overheating?
- Does the car pass emissions testing with no issues?

Steering & Suspension:
- Any issues with power steering?
- Has the power steering fluid ever been renewed?
- Has any maintenance been done to the suspension? (If yes, specify what parts were replaced)
- Is the rear suspension self-levelling? Is it original?
- Are there any unusual noises or vibrations when driving, especially when turning or going over bumps?

Brakes & Transmission:
- Does the car have ABS?
- Has the brake fluid ever been renewed?
- Has the gearbox oil ever been renewed?
- Are there any issues with braking performance (e.g., squeaking, pulsation, or vibrations)?
- When were the brake pads and rotors last replaced?
- Are the brakes in good condition, or do they need replacement soon?

Interior & Extras:
- Does the car have air conditioning? If yes, does it work properly?
- Any issues with the heater core? (e.g., heating not working, leaks, or odd smells?)
- Are the seats in good condition? Any tears or wear?
- Does the car have the original radio and audio system?
- Does the car come with the original manuals and keys?
- Are all interior electronics working (e.g., lights, windows, switches)?
- Does the dashboard have any cracks or signs of wear?

Rust Inspection:
- Are the wheel arches rust-free?
- Are the hinges on the doors and boot rust-free?
- Is the area above the rear bumper, inside the cargo space, rust-free?
- Has the car been re-treated for rust prevention or undercoating?
- Is there any rust underneath the car, particularly on the floor pans or chassis?
- Damp carpets?

Additional Questions:
- When was the timing belt tensioner, idler pulley, and water pump, been inspected or replaced recently? (Important for the interference engine). In KM and Months.
- Has the car ever been repainted or had bodywork done? If so, when?
- Are there any signs of leaks from the exhaust system?
- Is there a spare wheel and all original tools included? Wheel nut lock?

[callumalden]

...so this ´94 940 ended up being an early 1992 model!! I told you things were never straight forward over here. Can't say it is in lovely shape. However, beggars can't be choosers!

Start with the good news. No notable rust detected, wheel arches were clean, around rear suspension and tail was really good. Amazing. Everything else about the body was meh. Missing a few bits of chrome trim. Wobbly skirts. Bashes bumps, scrapes, scratches, gouges. But fine. It'll never be a museum piece.

Engine was okay, but a slight whine (accessory belts too tight?). ABS Brakes are not feeling wonderful on visual inspection callipers, disks look okay but a soft and slow feel. Steering rack was nice and dry but wheel alignment is shot, after replacing tyres the steering is apparently off to the side. Air Con broken and disconnected. Ancient oil build up on the engine protection plate... of unknown provenance.

Window rubbers and seals all a bit worn and a repair has been made to one seal with what I think was bathroom silicone. Yikes. Rear window washer (spray) not producing (one of those silicone T junction jobbies perhaps?). A fog light is not functioning (corroded contact, maybe?). The radio antenna is snapped out.

The exhaust is hanging in there. No odd excretions.

No evidence of leak or corrosion from the rain or AC / Coolant in the footwells. Inside all the plastic was just all a bit knackered. The radio is embarrassing, all glowing and... eugh, new. The central console is in bad shape, held together with twigs and moss. On my 240 I used sweat and tears to better effect. Seats were cosy enough, although again, my 240´s springs were in better condition. Possibly because the pedantic prior custodians and I were the sort of people who would have shouted and anyone who tried to kneel with one knee on the seat. "Have some respect for the old lady". Floors were dry and free of notable corrosion, full of dog hairs. Comes with spare wheel.

Suspension on visual inspection looked okay. I do not think the original nivomats are there at the rear. The springs looked new all round. At least they fooled me. I have a feeling it has been lowered a tad, as it seems I couldn't easily wriggle underneath the car as I was accustomed to doing with my 240... although I have been eating rather well these past months which could also explain this discrepancy too. I will make a measurement next time (of the wheel central to fender?). Anyone with helpful numbers?

I was disappointed that it was two years older, no airbags... BUT I win the easy possibly (of retrofitting cruise control)? I think I read somewhere there is a difference with the diagnostic tool(?). Cannot recall if that is a good thing?

Seller had it for two years and just completed an apparent engine overhaul*. He was selling because he bought it to commute to work (!) then realised it was quite a thirsty old car, as a last hoorah he took it on a road trip around Spain last summer and loved it... after a recent ITV (legally enforced annual test) he was made to change a good few things and realised he couldn't keep this and another classic afloat. Clearly.

I was not utterly impressed. I had travelled 3 hours to get there. I have spent three months looking at classic Volos in terrible condition sold by scumbags. This seller was not a bad guy, a bit naive, that's all... so I started discounting in my head. Then I went off to make some notes and surprisingly the seller then came out with a COMPLETE service history. I did not expect that.

Nevertheless, I made an offer 1000 EUR under the asking price and it was accepted. Eek.

... well I have rolled into the club then? Where to start, wheel alignment I think? Get this done on the drive home tomorrow. Then on to "Stage Zeroing" this crusty old beauty. Some additional notes below.

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=============================

*Here's a recap of what has already been done. Pinch of salt. Described by the seller as engine overhaul...

•New (second hand) MAF
•Cleaned Flame-trap
•New Sparks
•New Thermostat
•Coolant Flush
•Engine Oil Renewed
•New Oil Filter
•New Air Filter(s)
•Timing Belt Renewed (1K km / 600 miles ago)
•Accessory Belts Renewed

Add to that, two years ago:
•Yearly Services
•Break Fluid Renewed (16K km / 10K miles ago)
•Power Steering Fluid Renewed (16K km / 10K miles ago)

[matthew1]

Outstanding. Post a photo please.

Go down the list of Stage 0 items.

[callumalden]

1992 940, 2.3 N/A

ourstanding-volvo-940.png (1.04 MiB) Viewed 2350 times

Here's one of me, once described as outstanding in my field... I was planting potatoes at the time.

Go down the list of Stage 0 items.

@matthew1 Q. has anyone penned a gold master "Stage 0" guide regarding the 940 series?

All the best, thanks for any one taking the time to follow this. The process of buying a car in Spain has tested my endurance and patience to the limit (and my patience was once described, and this is not a joke, by a bishop as "saintly"). True story... same bishop introduced me to a priest who had an Alfa Romeo, which was the first car I ever learned to drive in.

[volvolugnut]

Looks good. What could possibly go wrong?
volvolugnut

[matthew1]

That's a pretty 940!

I don't recall a Stage 0 for a 940 here...

[scot850]

I had a 92 940 2.0 HPT in silver. One of the best and most comfortable cars I have ever owned. I have been tempted to buy another wagon as a couple of nice 940's and a 960 came up for sale recently are reasonable mileages and money.

Usual process for stage zero - Plugs, points (if they have them still), distributor cap and leads. Oil and filter, fuel filter, check all suspension and bushes. replace the diff oil and check the breather is clear.

Give the brakes a going over, checking the rear calipers in particular as they don't work too hard and can seize.

Timing belt swap as well, and check the water pump bearing while in there and any rotating bearings for noise.

Watch out for the spindles in the wiper drive. They can get dry. Not too easy to lube.

Then just go and enjoy!

Neil.

[callumalden]

@scot850 thank you so much. I will most certainly make my way through the list.

I will, for posterity, upload some photos of what I found in the engine bay. Perhaps I best start a new thread looking for advice on anything glaringly out of place.

In general a pleasing layer of crud everywhere, what my father refers to as "part of the insurance policy". I had been warned on my 240 by my father (mechanic of 40 years experience) NOT to clean out the engine bay to make it sparkle. Ignored his advice one incredibly sunny week when I had very little to do, car looked great for six months in dry Spain before returning to Scotland and salt and two years later... oh my, what have I done!

1992 Volvo 940, B234F

The previous owner, a very young enthusiastic car tinkerer took the freaking cover off the timing belt when he changed it... and then didn't put it back on... for aesthetics?!

Detailed image of the oily mess inside (what should be) the timing belt casing. Was assured it doesn't go through a drop of oil, since the timing belt change, gasket replacement... but he may have been full of it. Why wouldn't you clean the thing out entirely when doing the job?

1992 Volvo 940, B234F Timing Belt Detail

I do have the case, in bits. Found it in the boot. Minus the bolts I think I will need to reattach it. I will diagnose where that wee leak is coming from, if it is active. Camshaft seal is quite common, is it not? Before buying the bolts I need to reattach the cover. Any ideas?

I hope this isn't too awfully boring a post. I am keen to document the crusty old ladies´recovery. If this is using up valuable bandwidth, please let me know.


One more absolutely filthy image for you total freaks. Note: car was not sitting quite level at the time.

1992 Volvo 940, B234F Underside

Some work to do!

[scot850]

Yes, but a very good looking position to start from. I always want an 'honest' car if such a thing exists any longer. Ideally with a service history, even if done by the owner. Where we live, I am more concerned if it has had any maintenance by local repair shops as often they don't know or care what they do. I bought one 850 that had s bunch of work done it by the previous owner's local shop. When I went through and compared the notes with reality, they charged him for work that had never been done!! This then added to my repair costs which I was not amused by.

It has been 20 years since I last worked on a RWD Volvo I owned. It was a 89 Volvo 740 Turbo, so similar to the engine you have. It was a good car that the engine had been rebuilt on. Car had been 'clocked'. Engine was rebuilt by a former Rolls Royce mechanic who ran a Volvo specialist repair ship. His young mechanics were amazed the process he went through with plasti-gauge and all. Car ran beautifully once done. I sold it when a wagon became a need and it was not being used.

There should be no major surprises that I recall doing a timing belt was not terrible that I recall. Make sure the breather system is clear or it will cause oil leaks like cam seals, especially at the rear.

Good luck and hopefully you get some time to keep us updated! I look forward to that if you do!

Neil.

[volvolugnut]

I have changed a couple timing belts and a cam seal on 240 red blocks. They are easier than timing belt on white block (5 cylinder) Volvos. The hardest part is removing the fan for access.
I would want to replace the oily timing belt on that engine.
volvolugnut