Sway Bar End Link Removal (2004 V70)

Post by **Blacklab467** » 03 Feb 2025, 17:45

Another good reason to replace these with with OEM Volvo ones, they come with a hex in the middle of the ball shaft so you can hold it from turning and will last about three times longer than the aftermarket ones.

Post by **cn90** » 03 Feb 2025, 18:56

Actually, I found the 16-mm easier to work with bc the Torx/Allen is usually not enough to counter hold the rusty nuts in salted area. In the BMW photo above, the end link is Lemforder brand, so it is OEM.

PS: the nut is usually Stover type, so it is tough to turn.

Also, if you have no access to local bicycle shops, the eBay has these 16-mm wrench for $8-$10...

Post by **jonesg** » 04 Feb 2025, 01:00

xHeart wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 07:53
cn90 wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 07:30

I use an open end wrench from Harbor Freight - PITTSBURGH; it has the right depth. It slides over the counter hold with slight resistance against the rubber boot - fits. Clean and spray with lubricant first -- it always works!
this, or a prybar to brace the rear side and hit it witjh the impact, or just chop it off with an angle grinder.

Post by **BobbyC777** » 04 Feb 2025, 06:31

cn90 wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 15:52 This is a photo from my 1998 BMW 528i end link....you can see the thin 16-mm wrench there...

Screenshot_20250203-165057.png

I ordered a super thin 16x18 mm open end (Duratech) from Amazon for < $8.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G6HQW7L?re ... title&th=1

Post by **BobbyC777** » 04 Feb 2025, 08:04

Blacklab467 wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 17:45 Another good reason to replace these with with OEM Volvo ones, they come with a hex in the middle of the ball shaft so you can hold it from turning and will last about three times longer than the aftermarket ones.

I plan to order the Lemförder (OE) end links. FCP sells the pair for $57. The Gen-u-INE Volvo units go for $188.

Post by **scot850** » 04 Feb 2025, 08:25

I recommend not using an impact on these nuts unless you have a wrench on the rear. I could not understand why mine failed so regularly. It turns out when the car used to go to the dealer for front end work, they used impacts and just kept them spinning until they came loose. This melts the nylon cup and makes the joint loose! Personally I prefer the nut version on the back as the Torx ends are useless after a couple of years in the winter salt.

Neil.

Post by **BobbyC777** » 05 Feb 2025, 22:16

I purchased a thin open end wrench to help hold the inner nut to allow me to remove the sway bar end link (aftermarket). My standard wrench was about 9 mm at the head while the new was is 3 mm. I purchased the thin wrench (chrome) from Amazon for $8. Bicycle "cone" wrenches are another thin wrench option. Fingers crossed!

Comparison of standard & thin wrenches

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 06 Feb 2025, 09:11

BobbyC777 wrote: 05 Feb 2025, 22:16 I purchased a thin open end wrench to help hold the inner nut to allow me to remove the sway bar end link (aftermarket). My standard wrench was about 9 mm at the head while the new was is 3 mm. I purchased the thin wrench (chrome) from Amazon for $8. Bicycle "cone" wrenches are another thin wrench option. Fingers crossed!

Keep in mind if you're replacing the links with new ones you can get more medieval with the removal method, vice grips for counter hold and impact wrench or angle grinder to cut of the old ones as erikv11 mentioned. Nice to have the thin wrench on hand but if the nut and threads are in bad shape the thin wrenches don't always hold.

Post by **jonesg** » 06 Feb 2025, 20:20

I've taken a grinder to a cheapo wrench, custom tools is my style.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Feb 2025, 03:25

Once I have the grinder out, and a nasty northeast rusty bolt in sight, I can’t resist …..