1990s 940 Station Wagon - Buying Advice Topic is solved

[callumalden]

Thank you everyone. Since driving the crusty old dame back to my garage I have mainly been documenting what bits and pieces are missing or broken. I've also taken loads of photos of the engine bay, specifically the region around the timing belt (still sans cover). These will help remind myself how it was before I started meddling. I have also introduced myself to the flame trap, nice and accessible on a 940 N/A! It was quite mucky around the "oil trap" box. I totally cleaned out the flame trap, the large and small hose. PS. Have you seen inside a volvo oil trap yet?

Great news- since cleaning out the muck and junk from the timing belt cover I haven't noticed a recurrence of any leak, I had initially suspected the crankshaft seal... which I believe are given to popping due to insufficient maintenance on the flame trap etc. I have yet to tackle the flame trap as waiting on the PCV washer and a new white nozzle thingy.

Remember I mentioned that the timing belt cover had been removed by previous owner - actually I realised later part of it was missing (p/n 3531270). I have ordered up a used part (from a very handy dutch site: klassiekevolvo.nl ) and made contact with my local Volvo dealership... who bizarrely, used to regularly service this very car in a previous life.

Excuse alert: as I am many, many hundreds of miles from my tool kit and we are pushed for time (supposed to be moving in the next fortnight) I have asked the Volvo garage to reinstall the timing belt covers (replace the timing belt) and replace the camshaft seal. Awaiting a final quote. PS. I saw this wonderful forum post about changing timing belts.

I am also planning to use the opportunity to replace all the important screws under that timing belt cover (used for pulleys and tensioners and the oil pump) with super duper heavy duty items. I found the excellent Volvo product catalog online and from the part numbers therein and a few hours of googling I think I have deduced all of the correct items, without having to undo anything in the car.

B234F Screws, Bolts, Hardware Upgrade

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For any future Volvo 740/940 owners with the B234F engine I have created a list (below). I have seen it recommended that on your next timing belt change you also take the opportunity to upgrade some of the screws from stock 8.8 grade to 10.9 grade. Apparently screws are graded for their quality and endurance. Volvo will sell you 8.8 grade.

Here are the items you'll want to buy (from a third party):


(40) Crank/Camshaft Pulley Screw
M10x50mm x2
volvo pn: 987002, 955322 or 970952
aka: 4011105001_10

(42) Timing Belt Idle Pulley RH Screw
M8x55mm x1
volvo pn: 982801
aka: 4111805502_10

(26) Balance Pulley RH - Screw
M10x35 - x2
volvo pn: 982818
aka: 4102103501_10

(31) Balance Pulley LH - Screw
M10x55 - x1
volvo pn: 982822
aka: 4011105502_1

(37) Oil Pump - Screw
M10x30mm x1
volvo pn: 1
982817
aka: 4102103001_1

(47) Timing Belt Idle Pulley LH - Screw
M10x70mm x2
volvo pn: 982825
aka: 4111107001_5

I ordered these from tornillos-express.es in Spain, the same (French) company has brands across Europe. The final string of numbers in each section refers to their part number. All 10.9 Grade. Important if you want to make an investment in your interference engine.

One question for any total hardware freak- when dealing with higher grade screws, does the torque requirement change?

I haven't yet found the torque numbers for these items, not sure where that is published. Volvo garage will surely know. I did find this brilliant video of a guy changing the timing belt on a B234F which is nice.

[callumalden]

Wow, Volvo were incredibly unhelpful. Estimated re-attaching the top timing belt covers would take 7 hours. According to the breakdown the initial two hours will be spent removing just the camshaft pulleys, which is necessary... but two hours!? I feel like someone just can't be bothered or isn't skilled enough to give a realistic estimate.

The cherry on top... as I am missing the original screws Volvo will have to order each, which they explain they can only do in packets of 10 and they'd charge me for each packet. Moreover, they insist the timing belt and balance belt must be replaced at the same time... okay, fine... with a markup of 100% on the actual price of these parts. They also told me that they no longer can provide any cam/crankshaft seals for the 7/940s.

In the end, they want more than 1000 EUR/USD for this job. Seems a little OTT. This is the only official Volvo dealer in my region. I suppose I was foolish to think they'd be anything other than reluctant to deal with a 30+ year old car, even though it does appear to have a big Volvo badge on it!

I am proceeding to purchase all the required screws myself (20 EUR), also picking up a new continental timing belt (p/n CT831 - 40 EUR) and balance belt (Gates 5243XS - 20 EUR) I will attempt to locate a helpful, hardworking local mechanic... failing that, I will be buying some tools and brewing some very strong cups of tea and do this myself although it is a little out of my comfort zone.

[volvolugnut]

I am also planning to use the opportunity to replace all the important screws under that timing belt cover (used for pulleys and tensioners and the oil pump) with super duper heavy duty items. I found the excellent Volvo product catalog online and from the part numbers therein and a few hours of googling I think I have deduced all of the correct items, without having to undo anything in the car.


One question for any total hardware freak- when dealing with higher grade screws, does the torque requirement change?

In general fastener torque is designed to assure gasket squeeze is enough to prevent leaks, mating parts are not overloaded, and the fasteners remain tight during use. Changing to a higher grade (stronger) fastener should not change these factors and the torque should remain the same.
The benefit of the higher grade fastener may be longer life if standard grade has been known to fail in service.
However, If you are changing the design loads, such as increasing engine horsepower, fastener loads on related fasteners may increase and higher torque may be needed.
volvolugnut

[callumalden]

@volvolugnut thank you for your expertise. That is very interesting and enlightening.

Although I had mentioned earlier since cleaning out the old oily muck from the timing belt cover I hadn't noticed a recurrence of any active leak. I was wrong. After a motorway journey to visit a mechanic a fresh drop of new oil has revealed itself.

I suspect the front crankshaft seal at the pulley side, based on the location of the oil (directly under the crankshaft) and reading guides regarding the B234f engine online. I further suspect that this is due to pressure, due to PCV woes. Understand, I have not yet removed the "oil trap" aka "breather box" aka "PCV box" aka "crankcase breather". The Swedes know it by the term Vevhusventilation, either which way it is Volvo P/N 1326252.

Working along from the throttle body on the intake manifold... along to the MAF... along to the air filter box (air filter housing) I found traces of oil in and around the MAF and the air filter box and all the hoses along the way. The air filter... which appears not to have been replaced in a shamefully long time was disgusting. A bit of oil at the bottom of this housing. Rather disappointing as the seller had proudly advertised the engine was totally overhauled only 600 miles ago. Seems he forgot some basic stuff, and upon reassembling has forgotten to hang harnesses on various hooks and generally made a bit of a mess.

One thing at a time. Oil trap.

If you are finding this post in the future, I would highly recommend this introduction to vacuum leaks on FCP Euro, notes are based on working with a B234F engine. How lucky!

I have decided I must completely remove and clean the "oil trap". I hadn't done this earlier, when dealing with the flame trap because it didn't seem obvious at the time whether it could be removed (safely) without removing the intake manifold.

B234f Oil Trap Diagram

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On the B234f the "oil trap" (1) has the quirk of having a long solid pipe connected to the base. This cannot (or should not) be removed, obviously (see a very amusing/confusing forum thread here).

Mentioned on that thread is the fact it is possible to remove the oil box without first moving the intake manifold, which is great if true. They mention moving the transmission dispstick to gain access, so I infer these are Americans talking about their automatic transmission version of the B234f. My 940 is a manual (M46).

Can it be done? Can the oil trap be removed from a Volvo 940, M46, B234f engine without the need to detach the intake manifold?. Perhaps the difference between what lies beneath the manifold, manual vs automatic is more to the point... is there much of a difference?

Perhaps on Sunday I will find out. Below is "before", hopefully a much cleaner image to follow showing "after". Wish me luck.

B234f Oil Trap on Volvo 940, M46

... in other news replacement of the timing belt, balance shaft belt and inner timing belt cover is to handled by our local garage, who seemed au fait with the crusty old lady. The hefe excitedly came out of the office to tell his young mechanics; "now this is a REAL Volvo!"... in contrast the Volvo dealership stopped returning my messages. Charming! If I cannot clear the leak from crankshaft seal I will be giving them the seal to replace, Volvo P/N 1276425. Bit tricky to work out which aftermarket version to buy, 8, 10, 10.9mm all offered. Volvo said they can't help. Then there's material. I assume I don't want silicone. So NBR or "Polyacrylic rubber".

I've ordered one: AJUSA 15026200, 10mm thickness, "Polyacrylic rubber".
And one: BGA OS4369, 10mm thickness, NBR (nitrile butadiene rubber).

I was offered the "original" part for a Penta engine from a boat engine company in Brittany, but it would have been over 30 EUR/USD including delivery and they couldn't guarantee it was actually from Volvo. It may have been OEM, they couldn't confirm.

Finally, I don't think I explained that I am a long way from home... a long way from my own tools, we were only supposed to be passing through the city where we have been marooned and car-less since early Jan. Here in Spain things have their own... certain... pace. I really appreciate everyone who has taken the time to read and make sense of my questions and offer advice. Usually I would be fearless (to my detriment) and press on with repairs. However, we have a long journey ahead and plans to move in the coming months. There's not a lot of breathing space. It means a lot that this forum is full of such helpful people, pat on the back for all of you. Thanks.

ps.
future troubleshooting: seems there is the presence of moisture on the power steering hose (the one that goes from the pump down to the rack,). Not a leak exactly... I see no evidence of fluid loss or any corrosion. Just before the hose disappears around the engine protection plate, I notice a cable tie has been added to whether metal meets rubber... requires further investigation.

pps.
I realise the previous owner has "dropped" the suspension. I have lost two inches against the factory setup, which I understand to be... centre of wheel to wheel arch 380mm or 15 Inches. Currently I have approximately 330mm or 13 Inches. That explains why I can't just about wriggle under there.

[callumalden]

B234f Clean Oil Trap on Volvo 940, M46

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I can confirm it is possible to remove the oil trap from a manual B234f engine without the need to remove the intake manifold. It is not easy. First you must unscrew the bolt that holds the engine dipstick, located just below the distributor cap. This gives you almost enough space to wriggle the thing out. You must convince the oil trap out. It is far from straightforward. You will very much risk breaking the long pipe which is part of the bottom of the oil trap itself if your part is old and brittle and you'll have a very poor view of the seals, which if they are all dried up may fall directly into the oil pan.

Here's an image of my Volvo 940 birthing an oil trap...

B234f Removing Oil Trap

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I was lucky, you might not be. I could not recommend this method. Someone else in a volvo forum far away explained it as straightforward.

Good news / bad news: my oil trap was in fine shape - very clean. How annoying! I took the opportunity to reseat the wire loom that runs under the inlet manifold, which someone had previously reinstalled in the wrong order (under the heater core supply hose... it seems it should be OVER the hose). I also reconnected the ground braided cable back to the engine cover, which some idiot had left dangling around. I tightened up some other hoses related to the PCV system and generally fiddled around. The result is that when revving the engine I get a slight puff puff but also a bit of a vacuum (testing using a sheet of tissue over the open dipstick pipe. Not very scientific, but a 15% improvement I would say. Hah! I will continue to investigate other parts of the vacuum system. Return to that FCP Euro article.

End of update.

[callumalden]

Left the car with a mechanic (who came highly recommended by a family member who owns a classic Volvo) a week ago. Gave so called mechanic comprehensive instructions on how to remove the pulleys, replace timing belt inner/outer covers, torque everything to spec. New seals. Gave him all the parts and associated hardware, spare the custom Volvo crank holder tool. Gave them relevant excerpts from the volvo service manual and a link to the entire thing albeit in English. Gave them diagrams of the parts to install. Translated everything to Spanish best I could.

Straightforward he said. Had a look he did. Forced him to read my notes while I stood by and pointed at important things... oil pump pulley, tensioner etc. All understood? They were to call us "mañana" when the job was to be ready. They were going to rush it though as we had already spend almost a week waiting on a quote. Aside: an English-Spanish dictionary will have you confused as the word "Mañana" seems to translate as "tomorrow", but this is a slippery concept here in Spain and has no relation to the day after tomorrow. It better translates as "when I can be bothered... sometime in the future, maybe in a month or six, don't stress me out... it is after all, almost lunch time". To be honest mechanics where I am from are no better. 9/10 told me to buy a new car when I showed up with my, then, immaculate `240.

Called the so called mechanic every day for an update. Insisted should they need further parts, clarification or in fact help... I would help them best I could or seek advice elsewhere.

A week later the useless folks at Kezka Auto (Pais Vasco) admitted, in a round about way, that they hadn't done anything with my car and in fact, could not do anything. They were not joking. They weren't really sorry either. I immediately jumped on a bus, and unbelievably, en route the mechanic phoned me to say I couldn't collect my car as he had just started to put the accessory belts on.... and did I know it was quite complex... and would take him over 4 hours to complete this part of the job(!!!!!). He had decided that he would do the simplest task, they only one he was clearly capable of handling and charge us several times over for the work involved. No, no way.

I was livid. Obviously. Told him I would come and fit my own belts thank you very much. Had him return the car exactly to how I had given it to him, later I stormed into his garage. Grabbed my documentation and key out of his little (and very clean) hands and drove off.

We drove her 400 miles back to where we live, yes without the timing belt cover on, but I was feeling quite hopeless. It has been a month waiting on others to do this for me. What a faff.

Anyway, now I am back to my tools, though I am without garage. Where there is a will etc. etc.

Excellent news: I achieved 37 miles per (UK) gallon. That's 31 US MPG or 7.6 Litres per 100 km. Which - for me - is a 25% gain compared to my B200E in the 1990 ´240. What a nice surprise. This was on a very long, sustained motorway journey of several hours at a steady 60mph (100km/h).