R headlights (from 2006 S60R) fit in 2007 XC70, troubleshooting and diagrams (RESOLVED!) Topic is solved

[tfo]

hey guys, was gonna post in "what'd you do to your volvo today" but i lost the draft and figured that was a sign to make this a standalone post, since i haven't found anything on doing this on non-R or non-xenon P2s post-facelift. there's this ancient site that documents how to drill a hole in a shuntresistor to increase the resistance on the current to fool the CEM, but of course, this was from 2003, so pre-facelift. if you're interested, it's from xenonvalot.com.

so the headlights bolt in perfectly after removing the headlight wipers (which i plan on installing after i find a bumper to match), and since i got the headlight harnesses, they plug into the connector that goes to the CEM too. i did notice the pinout was slightly different, so I checked the 2007 wiring diagram and there is indeed an alternate CEM connection (the dotted lines) for Bi-Xenon equipped cars. this is likely why I get the "Bulb Failure, Low Beam" message on the DIM. attached are pics of Pyxie, a youtube vid of the symptom, and the page out of the wiring diagram i'm referencing.

image_2025-02-23_190944469.png (184.02 KiB) Viewed 4637 times

stuff i did also: i finally disassembled my SAS, since i noticed on the wiring diagram that the active headlights check the steering angle, so I wanted to make sure it worked. got all the way down to the plastic photo pattern wheel, aligned it, and reassembled just the SAS and plugged it in to check if it worked thru VIDA, and it did! it started at 0deg, and correctly displayed whether the wheel was turned left or right. i went to reassemble everything, and i put the wheel on, and then tragically there was no signal from the SAS anymore. stuck at 0deg and hasn't done anything since. i'm worried i permanently fried a chip or damaged a sensor, but at least it went from not working to... not working again. no money lost, at least. but god, that was so anger inducing doing all that work, coming so close, and then having it stripped away from you.

anyway, i'm really happy with how they look! the silver matches the wheels, the roof rails, grille and fake plastic skid plate. my foglights are functioning as my low beams right now, but this was honestly true with my old faded headlights too, they didn't do much in the first place.

my question is whether or not replacing or, more cost-effectively, making my own wiring would allow the new HIDs to work without error. my car also didn't come with a headlight control module, so i'm wondering if that would also bottleneck me here.

[tfo]

hey guys! success!
i got the headlights to work with an LED light that fits the original D2R housing, without need for an electrical resistor, but I ironically ended up using it as a spacer between the LED fan and the spring clip that usually holds down the HID igniter. They are surprisingly snug with this admittedly MacGyver solution. I ordered some ChopDark D2S/R LEDs off of amazon for around $45, with individual wire leads rather than a replacement connector like other products usually have. They plug right into the two-pin (technically 4, but only 2 have leads) connector that goes from the wiring harness into the ballast. I tried to make sure the LEDs matched the halogen (H11) specifications, like 35w and 12v, which probably helped avoid a low beam failure message (but it probably has some built-in error avoidance circuitry too, i don't remember)

And yes, I took the time to adjust them to the best of my ability so they don't blind oncoming drivers. There is some light bleeding above the brightest point, but there's not much you can do with reflector-type housings like this. I'll also note that the specific LEDs i got have the wires coming out at a point that just barely interferes with the metal HID housing, so they go in at a verrrrrry slight diagonal. This probably affects the reflection behavior too. I don't have the tools, but I'd take some clippers strong enough to cut through the aluminum to give the wires some room.

My only problem now is that since i disassembled one of the housings and irreparably damaged the sprung components that allow the reflectors to move into the hi-beam location, only one of my hi-beams work. However, it is totally important to note that this motorized hi-beam system is entirely plug-and-play with halogen models, at least my 2007 is. No high beam bulb failure errors, no nothing. I'll assume this is true for all 2004+ facelift models.

The DRLs do not work- the 9006xs bulbs that are placed closer to the grille don't turn on in any position or with any configuration in VIDA (unless my research hasn't been thorough enough). I'm either going to find a way to turn those into my high beams again, or buy auxillary light pods and use those instead. I do have to have functional hi-beams to pass VT state inspection, but I've gotten away with not getting my car inspected for this long, so a little longer won't hurt, right?

[tfo]

more updates: i've made a (mostly) comprehensive wiring diagram that depicts what everything goes to, especially for my situation; fitting Bi-Xenons on a car originally with halogens to allow for functional use of the low beams, hi beams, parking lights and turn indicators. The Active Bending Lights (ABL) will not function with an originally-halogen CEM/HCM. My original Halogen harness curiously has the same connector that goes to an empty "connector" on the headlight housing. Vestigial!

i also wired up some auxillary hi-beams that i mounted on a license-plate bracket. not the sturdiest, but it points the pods in the right direction. they work way better than the original motorized system, I've only heard bad things about it and anecdotally I agree.

i found i needed to do some "translation" of volvo's EWD, since it didn't help until I drew it out (pictured below. please excuse the sword). In wiring group 54/22 and 54/23 (left and right headlights, respectively), the connector named 10/2A has component names and pin-numbers. For example, the main ground is on pin 10 of the 12-pin connector (either 54/23 or 54/22), and is referred to as 10/2A:4.

to do this mod, I cut the Red wire (pin #7 on both halo. and xenon harnesses; couldnt figure out which 10/2A number it was) and the Black ( pin #10) ground wire that goes to the ABL motor (unused here) which feeds back to the main ground.

in case the picture doesn't render for people or gets lost in twenty years, I'll write out each component's wiring here too.

turn signal + parking light dual filament bulb: pin 2 black, pin 9 orange, and pin 10 brown (splits from main black ground)
ABL motor connector: pin #10 black, pin #1 pink, pin 6 brown
main beams (high, low, drl): pin #10 black = ground, pin #5 light blue = ?, pin #4 yellow = ?, pin #3 gray = low beam, pin #1 pink = DRL (probably)

[abscate]

I’m going to overlook your horrible wiring diagram faux pas because you used M&ms to code, Pyxie!