Sudden Hesitation and Stalling 1999 V70R

[claymanshu]

Hi all,

I have recently acquired a 1999 V70R with 216000 miles. The car has been running great for about 200 miles since replacing a leaking radiator.

After driving the car a few nights ago, I parked and realized I had lost all electric power. The battery had jumped out of the tray (in need of new suspension leading to harsh bottom-outs), and the negative lead had come off of its post. Upon seeing this, I just clamped the lead back on and all was okay for about a mile of driving. The car then began to hesitate under acceleration. Initially it was idling fine, but throttle input was met with hesitation/sputtering. I turned the car off to check if the battery was still connected, didn't see any issue there. I had the gas tank about 1/3 full at this time; I ran to the gas station to drop two more gallons of fuel in the tank, as the previous owner stated that the car has trouble starting with low fuel. I then did a proper battery lead removal; touched the leads together for 30 minutes, and clamped down positive first negative second, with ignition at position II. I tried to start her up again, this time the car was unable to idle; started right up but stalls out almost immediately after sputtering. I left the car on the side of the road and got a ride home.

I came back to the car today to look for vacuum leaks, I don't see/hear anything immediately obvious. Unplugged the MAF sensor, same start but immediate stall condition. Upon further research (thanks to this website) I removed the fuel pump relay and put a jumper wire (see below) in its place between slot 15 and 87. Same start/sputtering/stall condition persists.

No codes on my OBD II scanner.

I am stumped here, would the car still continually start with a bad fuel pump? I am hesitant to jump to a bad fuel pump being the conclusion, considering the issue only began after the negative battery lead became disconnected while driving. I am also not looking forward to the complex procedure of replacing the pump due to the AWD components (would prefer not to cut a hole in the body). Up until this point, I have always heard the pump prime with the key in position II, I am having trouble hearing it now as the car sits on a traffic heavy road.

[abscate]

That battery may well be damaged beyond repair by bouncing around. The 1999- cars need a solid good battery or they wont run well.

Test the fuel delivery system by measuring fuel pressure at the rail - you can 'rent and return' a fuel pressure gauge at Autozone or the like. A pencil type tire pressure gauge will also work, but its a one time use.

[scot850]

+1 with Abscate on this. Check battery not only gives 12.6+V but also that the cranking amps are good. I have had batteries that show a good charge but have a bad cell that does not deliver the current needed.

The battery is held in by a simple plastic clip when the correct type with the lower extensions are used. It is Item#5 on the attached link:

https://www.volvocarstorontoparts.ca/a/ ... 74540.html

Fuel pressure for your car assuming you have an ETM and coil on plugs, should be 50+ psi.

Let us know how you get on and we can help further.

Good Luck!

Neil.

[jmartin919]

What's up with the price on the battery tray? Holy cow!

[scot850]

It seems that Volvo now has a $500+ price on anything larger than a bolt. I spoke to a Toyota dealer recently and they said their minimum charge for a part is now $10 CDN for each part. I needed 4 plastic push pins that I could not find elsewhere. They cost me $40 CDN + Tax.
When will manufacturers and dealers start to realize if they sold parts for more reasonable prices, people might actually take their cars to dealers and they can use up old parts sitting in warehouses for older models.

Neil.

[Vova585]

I think that you need a good scanner or vida dice and some time to work through those issues. Question if the spike in current or disconnected terminal created short circuit somewhere in electronic system. Incorporating some advice from above:
1. Move car to the area where you can work on it.
2. Remove battery and take it to the local parts store to test. If it is still showing some remaining life-charge it and it will likely be ok fir now. Can always buy new one when issue resolved.
3. Rent fuel pressure kit and test fuel pressure at the port located at the fuel rail. Plug you jumper wire and look at the pressure. Should see around 3-3.5bar(40-50psi) of such is present you should be able to start the car and likely your issue is not fuel pump. After your disconnect the jumper wire check the pressure after 20min or so. It should not be 0. The resting pressure should be around 0.5-1 bar(don't quote me on that) so when you prime the pump it almost immediately go to 3.3bar or so. If such is present you are good.
4. Have the helper to start the car and look what happens to pressure when the car is trying to start. If it drops to 0 and car stops, possibly your issue is fuel delivery. Try to do the same but with jumper cable installed. If the pressure remains present, but car stalls-look elsewhere.
4. Here I would invest Into scanner tool, or ask around craiglist or here maybe some local volvo nut car loan you icarsoft, or vida dice tool so you can see the inputs for air temp, coolant temp, map.
5. I believe 98 was the last year of 1 ignition coil design and in 99 it was switched to 1 coil per cylinder. So I doubt that 5 coils died, plus the car starts.
6. You can check the timing marks, but likely they would be ok since the engine still turns. But it is a good test to do and make sure your belt is not skipped.
7. Look for major air leak. Usually Intercooler lines or the cracked rubber connector on top of turbocharger.
8. Since the car drove fine prior, I doubt that your exhaust system is plugged and creats restriction.
9. Try the new battery trick and hope it will work
10. Through vida or other capable tool check cam and crank sensor inputs.
11. Of all above is ok you can check the compression and leak down test on the cylinders(still doubt it is an issue).
12. Given year it might be still original throtle body which were Magnetro Marelli and were prone to failure around 120k or earlier. However you should have some check engine code for that and limp mode.
13. If no time or desire or place to work, bring to dealer and pay for 1 hour diagnostic and hopefully you will get lucky and they will be normal guys and help you with your issue.
14. Might try different key. Possibly immobilizer is acting up. But you can get on Amazon induction rind that can tell you if anthena is ok.
Good luck and keep us posted. Let us know of your location and maybe someone local can help with tools, scanner

[claymanshu]

Hi all, I haven't had time to get back to the car yet. I'll be sure to keep this thread updated as things change. Thank you very much for the information and detailed procedure. I am in the downtown LA area, and the car is stranded up in Pasadena. I am debating whether to AAA tow the car to my home or to a shop. I've called a shop close to it to see if they can take a look, but they won't be able to see it until next Monday. The road it's on has a wide shoulder, so I'll go up there with a multimeter and pressure gauge and check voltage and fuel pressure at key position II and upon starting.

To clear up a detail, yes the car is individual coil on plug.

[Vova585]

Another possibility: I think volvo still offers free towing for up to 25 miles to the dealer. In case that helps with bottom line and you want dealer to look at it. In my neck of the woods people sometimes posted on craigslist asking for help with vida dice and I always was a willing person to help people. Might possibly work for you

[claymanshu]

I think that you need a good scanner or vida dice and some time to work through those issues. Question if the spike in current or disconnected terminal created short circuit somewhere in electronic system. Incorporating some advice from above:
1. Move car to the area where you can work on it.
2. Remove battery and take it to the local parts store to test. If it is still showing some remaining life-charge it and it will likely be ok fir now. Can always buy new one when issue resolved.
3. Rent fuel pressure kit and test fuel pressure at the port located at the fuel rail. Plug you jumper wire and look at the pressure. Should see around 3-3.5bar(40-50psi) of such is present you should be able to start the car and likely your issue is not fuel pump. After your disconnect the jumper wire check the pressure after 20min or so. It should not be 0. The resting pressure should be around 0.5-1 bar(don't quote me on that) so when you prime the pump it almost immediately go to 3.3bar or so. If such is present you are good.
4. Have the helper to start the car and look what happens to pressure when the car is trying to start. If it drops to 0 and car stops, possibly your issue is fuel delivery. Try to do the same but with jumper cable installed. If the pressure remains present, but car stalls-look elsewhere.
4. Here I would invest Into scanner tool, or ask around craiglist or here maybe some local volvo nut car loan you icarsoft, or vida dice tool so you can see the inputs for air temp, coolant temp, map.
5. I believe 98 was the last year of 1 ignition coil design and in 99 it was switched to 1 coil per cylinder. So I doubt that 5 coils died, plus the car starts.
6. You can check the timing marks, but likely they would be ok since the engine still turns. But it is a good test to do and make sure your belt is not skipped.
7. Look for major air leak. Usually Intercooler lines or the cracked rubber connector on top of turbocharger.
8. Since the car drove fine prior, I doubt that your exhaust system is plugged and creats restriction.
9. Try the new battery trick and hope it will work
10. Through vida or other capable tool check cam and crank sensor inputs.
11. Of all above is ok you can check the compression and leak down test on the cylinders(still doubt it is an issue).
12. Given year it might be still original throtle body which were Magnetro Marelli and were prone to failure around 120k or earlier. However you should have some check engine code for that and limp mode.
13. If no time or desire or place to work, bring to dealer and pay for 1 hour diagnostic and hopefully you will get lucky and they will be normal guys and help you with your issue.
14. Might try different key. Possibly immobilizer is acting up. But you can get on Amazon induction rind that can tell you if anthena is ok.
Good luck and keep us posted. Let us know of your location and maybe someone local can help with tools, scanner

I finally have an update for you all. I had the car towed to a shop on 3/10. They found low pressure at the rail, but refused to diagnose beyond that, as it was stated the car is too modified to work on. Fair enough, the previous owners (many) had swapped in an M56 and 20t turbo, along with a mystery tune. After the shop refusal, I had the car towed back to my house.

The battery was dead after starting the car so many times, I had it evaluated and charged at Autozone. Passed there, came back charged to 12.59v. After plugging the battery and jumper wire back in, I connected my fuel pressure gauge to the rail, and cycled the key to position II a couple of times. 0 pressure at the rail. I checked continuity to the fuel pump harness near the rear seats with key in position II. Pump is getting 11.95v:

Additionally, after cycling the key about 10 times, the battery is down to 12.4v, is it normal to lose capacity so quickly?

At this point I am suspecting a failed fuel pump. I cannot hear the pump running at all, and as I stated there is no pressure. Could there be something else preventing my pump from turning on?

My procedure to test continuity to the fuel pump followed this article: viewtopic.php?t=52252 by @cn90 , and the end of this article on pelican parts: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... esting.htm

[Sveedy]

I don't believe that 12.5 volts is enough. You should be seeing 13.8 - 14.2 or so before you hit the key.
I'd start with a different battery.