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My S60 wouldn’t start again

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Firied1993
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Joined: 4 March 2025
Year and Model: 2019
Location: USA

My S60 wouldn’t start again

Post by Firied1993 »

My S60 started then turned off and wouldn’t start again. Turned over, wouldn’t fire.Towed to shop. The repair bill states: tested fuel and ignition system, no fuel pressure. Tested fuel pump circuits, poor pin fit at fuel pump connection. Repaired pins, vehicle starts.

Brought it home, wouldn’t start, towed to shop, it started every day for 5 days. Brought to another shop. Ignition and plugs OK. It’s starting.

How do I know it’s safe to drive my car? Should I replace the original fuel pump? Does anyone have a suggestion on what else to check? My car is in good shape with 170,000 miles.

I appreciate any suggestions you may have.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Intermittent no-starts are tough. Once the condition returns, go right to the fuel pressure measurement and see if fuel delivery is still problematic. Take a picture of the repair so we can get an idea of the workmanship. Not every garage can really repair stuff nowadays, most are just parts swappers
Empty Nester
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Look into PEM issue (search forum for info).
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

without the tools and knowledge you're going to have to keep towing it back until the problem can be traced.
If it persists I would consider taking it someplace else and explain what has been done so far.

I would order an ELM 327 code reader, it pairs with your android phone and can tell you if there is no fuel pressure when you get a no start condition.
.
Costs less than $13, I leave mine connected 24/7 , it will not drain your battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Launchh-Professi ... 250&sr=8-7

dikidera
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Post by dikidera »

He should get a non-chinese clone version, a real ELM chip, with that there are certain ways to send commands VIDA would send and get back nice input, commands you can store in say Car Scanner.

yanga001
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Post by yanga001 »

Was running into this issue in the cold and tried a new cam position sensor, added an aux ground, and then it got to warm to verify if the issue is still present. What is your battery voltage when this happens? Do you have a dancing speedometer when trying to start the car. Does the immobilizer activate after a certain number of times?

What parameters are consistent during the no start? For us it was cold snaps where the night would be very cold followed by a warmer morning. I was able to get my car to start if i put a jump pack on it after it first struggled to start and was at a good battery voltage. Once i get passed the first cold start then i would be fine for the day.

Have you changed the fuel filter?
1998 S70 N/A Auto (Parts car)(planned to be harvested)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar :( )
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)

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Krons
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Post by Krons »

Not sure if this will help but my 08 S60 2.5T had a bad fuel pressure sensor. Engine would cut out on the highway, I actually thought I had a torque converter slip in the transmission. But - it never had issues starting that I recall. Easy to change part right on the end of the fuel rail.

I would recommend changing the fuel filter too.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
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05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The fuel pressure sensors on the fuel rail do seem to be 100k life parts. My P2 went, but it nicely coded and led me straight to a good diagnosis. PEM and pump did not code. You need to verify with a gauge
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Vova585
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Post by Vova585 »

I think the first question would be what year this car is. Is it a turbo or not. Is it awd or not. Different years had different fuel delivery systems and thus process of diagnostic approach should be different. Also area where you are located also helps since maybe some members are near by and bored and want to help.

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