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99' S70, 5-speed, Immobilizer Problem. End of the road for Matilda?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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scot850
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Re: 99' S70, 5-speed, Immobilizer Problem. End of the road for Matilda?

Post by scot850 »

Wurth also makes a really good product, but whilst they let me make an account with them, as a non-industrial user they won't sell it to me in Canada. Fortunately I have a buddy in the automotive trade where they can order it. That is what our local dealer used on my P80 TCU/ECU.

Neil.
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Post by foggydogg »

abscate wrote: 21 Mar 2025, 00:37 Ok, here are the two codes we unload from Mathilda, I want o dig I and understand if these are ECM faults or DIM faults
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Post by abscate »

We have our next step in mind

Pull Mathilde ECu and try it in a known good DENSO 99 s70, see if we can talk to it through a good CDM and wiring
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Post by scot850 »

That should work. My car was not happy about it, but that was because I used a 4 speed auto trans CEM on a 5 speed auto. It did however start and run but threw codes. With a similar trans it should work and drive.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
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Post by abscate »

Dirk, from another thread

viewtopic.php?p=649708#p649708

Can you get Mrs Dirk to twist the key while you see if the main engine relay clicks ? Need good battery of course

That relay is closed by grounding at pin b38 on the ECM so thst will tell us if we have any ECM activity or if it’s dead.

It’s one of the three square relays in this picture, the rectangular one is the AC relay

I think it’s the J marked relay
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Post by abscate »

Nope, it’s this relay…
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Post by 850 LPT »

Thanks, Steve
I actually found that out when I looked at it. Got a good audible click on that relay, so that's probably good news.

Also, I took the ECU out to clean the contacts with DeoxIT, and I messed up royally. When we were doing the continuity test I used a tiny pin in the female part of the connector to establish a good connection. Apparently I forgot to take that out before re- installing the ECU and that matching pin got bent and was touching the pin next to it.
I bent the pin back and you would never know, but I don't know if things got damaged inside the ECU. It behaves exactly the same, but who knows.
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Post by jmartin919 »

Just because a relay clicks does not necessarily mean it's working. You know the contacts are closing but the contacts may be coroded or pitted and not passing current.
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Post by abscate »

850 LPT wrote: 16 Apr 2025, 14:49 Thanks, Steve
I actually found that out when I looked at it. Got a good audible click on that relay, so that's probably good news.

Also, I took the ECU out to clean the contacts with DeoxIT, and I messed up royally. When we were doing the continuity test I used a tiny pin in the female part of the connector to establish a good connection. Apparently I forgot to take that out before re- installing the ECU and that matching pin got bent and was touching the pin next to it.
I bent the pin back and you would never know, but I don't know if things got damaged inside the ECU. It behaves exactly the same, but who knows.
That's why morons like me should never work on electronics :oops:

That pin will be fine. Thst does mean the ECU is trying to do some of its work
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Post by wizechatmgr »

This is going to sound strange, but have you checked the cigarette lighter fuse?
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