Studder/hesitation when accelerating...new MAF?

[MoVolvos]

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Common problem with Ford. Is your mechanic using this tool?
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[MoVolvos]

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Mine was a MAP sensor. Bosch or generic.
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https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Original-E ... B00BL764CY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLV3DV1G/re ... p13NParams

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[abscate]

Well friends, I have a major problem on my hands. When removing plug #2, it was seized in there and, although I could turn it slowly with a breaker bar, I eventually snapped it below the spark plug socket. So the metal threads and porcelain are still seized in there. Took it to my mechanic. Several attempts with easy outs, heat, lubricant, etc. Can't get it out. They will try an extractor tool tomorrow. If that fails, my beloved vehicle may be toast.

If the extractor fails you can either drill it out or remove the cylinder head. You can also remove the fuel injector plug on cylinder 2 and drive a 4 cylinder Volvo around town for 5000-10000 miles until life allows the repair. It will be rough at idle but ok at 2000-3000 rpm if you drive serenely.

[hu5ker555]

Well there is a glimmer of hope. Mechanic was able to get the plug threads out after many attempts. So, I now have new plugs in #1 and #2, old ones in #3,4,5. Gonna test drive it and hope the issue is fixed. Not looking forward to pulling #3,4,5 as they are likely seized also.

[scot850]

I spray I little PB Blaster or likes down the side of the spark plug and let it sit over night. Then try to wind the plug out. If it gets tight, spray a little more penetrant down and wind the plug back in. Keep doing this but do not force it. I have had this issue and it has taken me 45 minutes to get one plug out. Some modern plugs have anti-seize already in their threads, but I have a anti-seize stick that I rub on the threads to try to reduce the chance of it happening again.

I wish you the best of luck!

Neil.

[Vova585]

I think on Fords many mechanics recommend replacing spark plugs on "hot" engine (think even ford issued TSB suggesting fully warm engine) and use quality spark plug soket with impact driver. Good luck.

[hu5ker555]

Great news! My mechanic was finally able to remove the remainder of the plug. Took several hours but I'm back in business. And the studder/hesitation seems to be gone. I have two new plugs in there now, and three older ones. I think I'll just leave well enough alone and not mess with the other three as long as things keep running smoothly. Otherwise, will be super cautious with the other three. If it's not broke...

Thanks so much to everyone on here for the tips/suggestions/moral support. I love this car and really dread the day when I need to replace it.

[hu5ker555]

UPDATE

So in doing all of this work, the spark plug cylinder #1 threads became stripped, to the point that I could not get a new spark plug firmly seated into the hole. Tried many things to seat it there, some of which lasted several weeks, but eventually the plug worked its way out and damaged the coil pack. So, last week I went ahead and cut a new set of threads into the head using a sav-a-thread helicoil insert kit. It actually went in there pretty smoothly and I was super cautious to capture the shavings with grease along the way. So I now have a new spark plug with helicoil insert firmly seated in the hole. Put on a new coil pack. So far so good.

Only thing I couldn't do was use the reamer tool to drive/flare the top of the insert into the newly tapped hole. Because when I used the new spark plug to seat the insert into the hole, as I backed out the spark plug the insert came out with it. Ended up putting some red locktite on the outside of the insert and cranking it down pretty firmly. Hopefully that holds. And hopeful that I never need to touch this spark plug again since I'm sitting at 250k miles.