Studder/hesitation when accelerating...new MAF?

hu5ker555 · Post by **hu5ker555** » 05 Apr 2025, 12:14

2008 S60 2.5T 244k

Been dealing with this for quite some time. Car idles fine, runs smooth as silk, but sometimes when accelerating at highway speeds it studders a bit. No codes. I cleaned the MAF and also disconnected the battery for 30 mins. We'll see if anything improves.

If not, I'm leaning towards buying a new MAF. RockAuto has a BOSCH 0280218335 for $88. Says it replaces OEM. Thoughts, other options?

Post by **jonesg** » 05 Apr 2025, 17:30

Did you look at the maf, is it dirty ?

Have you monitored fuel pressure whilst running, during hesitation.?
A $12 ELM 327 for your smartphone will give FP readings if your car has a PEM, I think it does.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Apr 2025, 17:44

How old are coils and plugs?

hu5ker555 · Post by **hu5ker555** » 05 Apr 2025, 19:50

I replaced one coil and plug about a month ago due to P0303. The other coils and plugs are probably old.
I cleaned the MAF thoroughly several days ago.
I'm now getting a P0101.
Would it be better use of $$$ to change the other coils and plugs than to try buying a new MAF? I think I paid about $42 for 1 bosch coil pack and 1 bosch plug. So about $160 for the 4 other coils and plugs. New MAF appears to be about $90 for bosch. All prices on RockAuto.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 05 Apr 2025, 20:13

I think at those miles you are dealing with "aging ". And you are due for investments into this ride. From experience-if one coil failed, the rest are not far behind. MAF is likely all good since no codes and you cleaned it. Start with basics with plugs and coils-this way you will have lesser chance to get stranded somewhere or melt your catalytic if forced to drive with misfire. Can put a bottle of royal purple fuel cleaner in tank(might help a little). You can remove injectors and send them for professional cleaning or buy a set of new ones(in case you have spare money and eager to wrench a little), replace fuel filter(if equipped, which is a part of normal maintenance, but doubt will improve your issue). The rest of the stuff requires a decent level scanner and knowledge to better diagnose. Might be cheaper to pay 1 hour dealer diagnostic to look into this issue if becomes more bothersome.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Apr 2025, 08:03

No on the MAF, especially a RA MAF. It will spit codes if it isn’t metering right

Pull a couple of plugs and look at the gap. If it’s over 030 they are worn out and you may have a funky misfiring plug at load. New set of Coppers, under $25

Post by **chrism** » 06 Apr 2025, 19:28

abscate wrote: ↑06 Apr 2025, 08:03
Pull a couple of plugs and look at the gap. If it’s over 030 they are worn out and you may have a funky misfiring plug at load. New set of Coppers, under $25

Agree….. These work great in the 5 cylinder Volvos. I typically get about 90,000 miles out of them:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ngk,6 ... +plug,7212

Post by **Krons** » 06 Apr 2025, 21:18

Also check for fuel pressure codes if it cuts out during acceleration. Could be fuel pressure sensor.

hu5ker555 · Post by **hu5ker555** » 07 Apr 2025, 11:56

Going to replace the plugs this week. Hope that takes care of this.

hu5ker555 · Post by **hu5ker555** » 15 Apr 2025, 19:41

Well friends, I have a major problem on my hands. When removing plug #2, it was seized in there and, although I could turn it slowly with a breaker bar, I eventually snapped it below the spark plug socket. So the metal threads and porcelain are still seized in there. Took it to my mechanic. Several attempts with easy outs, heat, lubricant, etc. Can't get it out. They will try an extractor tool tomorrow. If that fails, my beloved vehicle may be toast.