P1332 (Knock Sensor) and P0014 (Cam Timing) – Could This Be ETM Related? [1999 Volvo S70 GLT]

[ericmci]

Hey everyone,

I wanted to see if anyone here has insight into a couple of issues I’m dealing with on my 1999 Volvo S70 GLT.

Background:

Recently, I pulled a P1332 code using my generic Autel MaxiScanner. The scanner identifies it as "Knock Sensor Control Limit Attained – Cylinder 8" — which is a little odd given this is a 5-cylinder engine. Regardless, it’s only popped up a few times so far. I always use the correct or higher octane fuel, and the car had a tune-up within the last couple of years. This is the first time I’ve seen this code.

Related Issue – P0014: I’ve also been getting a recurring P0014 code: “Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1).” This started happening shortly after a timing belt replacement a couple of years ago.

When I brought it back to the mechanic, he admitted it could have been his mistake, but said if it wasn’t, he’d have to charge me to go back in. He suggested it might be a dirty sensor issue. The code went away for a while but has recently returned.

Current Symptoms: Lately, I've been dealing with ETM (Electronic Throttle Module) problems:

Idle hunting

Jerky acceleration, especially when the engine is warm

General throttle responsiveness issues

I’m planning to replace the ETM soon since it’s clearly on its way out.

My Question: Is it possible the knock sensor code (P1332) could be related to the failing ETM?

It feels like the car has trouble downshifting when I brake, and sometimes this seems to trigger a code. I’m wondering if the ETM, by sending bad info or struggling to manage airflow, could be causing issues with the knock sensor trying to maintain proper combustion timing.

Would appreciate any thoughts on:

Whether the knock sensor could be reacting to symptoms caused by the bad ETM

If the camshaft timing issue is likely related to the timing belt job or part of the larger sensor/ETM issue

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer!

[Vova585]

I think we should get back to the basics here. I haven't run across(do not want to say it is impossible) bad knock sensor. I would check the timing marks first and foremost. If they are off I would try to move them back to the proper position(would hold on replacing right away given not all issues are sorted). Then would move to your camshaft sensor and check its condition. If I remember correctly it is on the back of cylinder head on exhaust side(I might be wrong). Oil seepage, dirt, corrosion between sensor mounting and cylinder head, reluctor ring should be inspected cleaned. Remove spark plugs and check compression in all 5. If all looks good-replace spark plugs and try to move ignition coils around(mark prior location). Try to drive like that and see if any code will come back. It would be best to use vida(100 is a cheap investment minus headache to install at least for me) or generic obd side of your scanner. If knock sensor code is back-oh well they are cheap so "partscannon" and put used one and see of anything will be different. If you have money for ETM that would be great, but try to clean it first. If your car is not getting to the limp mode, etm might be still good. I would rather buy smoke machine(vtl was suggesting one in recent posts for 65$) and smoke it. Chances are you have several vacuum leaks which are causing your idle to vary.
Good luck

[ericmci]

Thanks for the check list!

Can you point to a guide on checking the timing marks?
I have taught myself a fair amount of work on this car from replacing full suspension and engine mounts to things like abs modules and vacuum line issues but I have not tackled a timing belt replacement or adjustment.
I know in my mind it isn't more complicated than anything I have already done but I confess some hesitancy being that this is an interference engine.

I did do a homemade smoke test with a pump-cigar, worked surprisingly well and no major leaks anywhere which is great.
I have heard the potentiometer on my year ETM will wear and given the intermittent nature of it I am inclined to think that is it
But- you are right - cleaning can't hurt since I am going to remove it anyway.
I did however find a used updated white label for a turbo at a salvage yard for 50.00 if I need it.
I did a VIN check and it should be able to bolt in without reprogramming, if other posts are to be believed.

[Vova585]

I am not an expert on ECT. I had mine fixed by xemodex(2001 magnetto marelli), but other more educated members suggested that there was a plug and play version without need for vin code programming. If you can get your hands on one of those units for $50 I would be all over that vs xemodex price. I believe there are plenty of great videos on YouTube about timing belt job on 5cyl engine(with exception of newer 2 vvt system ot all should be the same across the board). If you were able to build your own smoke machine-you will have no problems checking marks as per visual guide of youtube.
I like this guy

[ericmci]

Ohh that's a good one thanks!

At one point it was in the shop and the cover was off for something after the belt was done.
The Volvo tech did note that one of the tensioner pulleys was on backwards from the job.
But I imagine he would have also noticed if the marks were off now that I think of it.
Still, can't hurt to check myself.

I think the plan is now to just investigate all three spots - clean everything and see where we're at for function.

Shouldn't be any issues to drive for another week or two right?
If this is just showing up.
Maybe I will pour some techron in and go for a highway drive.

[abscate]

Both of those codes are related to cam timing. Probably whoever did the timing belt didn’t preload it correctly so it’s off. The 99 and 00 are finicky And take time to get right

[scot850]

Then being a 99 LPT engine you also have a CVVT solenoid that can get cranky or dirty with age which may affect your timing as well as your cam position sensor.

The ETM could be cranky but you could also have just a dirty ETM throttle body or a vacuum leak somewhere.

Like the guys have pointed out, I'd have the cam belt/timing belt checked first. Just one tooth out could be causing your issues.

Running long oil change intervals can cause the CVVT solenoid to gum up and throw timing off.

Neil.

[ericmci]

A bit more details for the puzzle. It definitely seems to get worse in warmer weather and on hills. ?
Tach really hunts and surges and takes a heavier foot to keep speed.

I did a tune a couple of years ago plugs- filters etc. So not a ton of miles on those items.
Does that shed any light?

It couldn't hurt to clean everything you listed.

CVVT if real bad would set off a code right?

Man- I wish you were in the states Scot, I would def pay to have you drive the car and make a list for me.

[ericmci]

Also, the Camshaft position sensor code is only triggered when I am usually decelerating. As if the car is getting a bad read from the reluctor rings. My rings are not in perfect shape but - o-k?
I just know that that code will pop up only when I accelerate or decelerate from or to a stop. Highway speeds Never trigger the code.
And it never happened before the timing belt job. But- for the first year after the job only appeared sporadically. Now seems to happen multiple times a week especially with city driving.

[scot850]

There are guys on your side of the border on the east coast who know their stuff.

A simple question. When was your last oil change? If it is near due, I have read multiple times of just an oil change has fixed issues on these engines fitted with the CVVT solenoid(s). Now, I don't think this would fix the issue, but may help to point to a culprit.

Never considered the axle reluctor rings to have an affect on an issue like this. Of course the car speed is determined from the ABS circuit and speed sensor, but not sure if they have a connection to the engine otherwise. They could affect the trans, but not sure of the engine. That is beyond my pay grade!

Neil.