P1332 is not a knock sensor code. You have to be careful with code readers and any code thst is manufacturer specific, the text is usually incorrect.
The manufacturer specific codes are formatted P0XXX , text descritions for any code P1XXX or P2XXX are suspect
The cam flank error code presents on startup, after the code is set. It can take several cycles of driving to set the code , so coming and going is a matter of drive cycles , not the fault coming and going.
Probably, your belt is off by a tooth. It has to be in one place on a 1999, unlike the earlier cars that can take a tooth or two off and run ok.
Lots of stiff on cam flank angle here from my Odyssey journey of 2020
viewtopic.php?t=93792&hilit=Cam+flank+angle
P1332 (Knock Sensor) and P0014 (Cam Timing) – Could This Be ETM Related? [1999 Volvo S70 GLT]
- abscate
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Re: P1332 (Knock Sensor) and P0014 (Cam Timing) – Could This Be ETM Related? [1999 Volvo S70 GLT]
Empty Nester
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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- wizechatmgr
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I remember this... viewtopic.php?t=93792&hilit=Cam+flank+angle
Wisdom requires knowledge as a prerequisite, but knowledge can be developed due to a lack of wisdom.
In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles
In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles
- wizechatmgr
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I also believe we did confirm that LPT and HPT use different reference points.
Wisdom requires knowledge as a prerequisite, but knowledge can be developed due to a lack of wisdom.
In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles
In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles
- ericmci
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Thanks for helping me talk it out!
I think the solenoid is pretty straight forward on this car in terms of removal- testing/cleaning and reassembly.
Also not terrible to replace with an oem.
The original mechanic who did the timing belt insisted this was the issue although he never looked at the marks.
Let's hope he was just kind of a jerk and not bad at what he did. ;-
This is my plan of attack:
(ChatGpt is handy for organization)
Timing Verification
Remove upper timing belt cover to access the camshaft pulleys.
Identify the timing marks on both:
Camshaft pulleys (align with timing cover notches).
Crankshaft pulley (align with mark on engine block or oil pump housing).
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise by hand:
Complete two full revolutions.
Confirm that all marks realign properly.
If they do, timing is likely correct.
Oil Pressure Test
Rent an oil pressure gauge from AutoZone.
Locate and remove the oil pressure switch, near the oil filter housing.
Install the test gauge, then start the engine and measure:
Cold idle: 15–30 psi
Hot idle: 10–20+ psi
2,000–3,000 RPM: 40–70 psi
After testing, reinstall the oil pressure switch securely.
CVVT Solenoid Maintenance
Remove the CVVT solenoid (front of the cylinder head).
Clean the screen and oil passages using brake cleaner or solvent.
Reinstall the solenoid using a new gasket if needed, and hand-tighten bolts snugly (10 Nm).
Throttle Body & Intake Hose Service
Remove and inspect the intake hose for cracks or leaks — repair or replace as needed.
Clean the throttle body plate and bore with throttle body cleaner and a soft cloth.
Reinstall the intake hose and clamps, tightening until snug but not overtightened.
I think the solenoid is pretty straight forward on this car in terms of removal- testing/cleaning and reassembly.
Also not terrible to replace with an oem.
The original mechanic who did the timing belt insisted this was the issue although he never looked at the marks.
Let's hope he was just kind of a jerk and not bad at what he did. ;-
This is my plan of attack:
(ChatGpt is handy for organization)
Remove upper timing belt cover to access the camshaft pulleys.
Identify the timing marks on both:
Camshaft pulleys (align with timing cover notches).
Crankshaft pulley (align with mark on engine block or oil pump housing).
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise by hand:
Complete two full revolutions.
Confirm that all marks realign properly.
If they do, timing is likely correct.
Rent an oil pressure gauge from AutoZone.
Locate and remove the oil pressure switch, near the oil filter housing.
Install the test gauge, then start the engine and measure:
Cold idle: 15–30 psi
Hot idle: 10–20+ psi
2,000–3,000 RPM: 40–70 psi
After testing, reinstall the oil pressure switch securely.
Remove the CVVT solenoid (front of the cylinder head).
Clean the screen and oil passages using brake cleaner or solvent.
Reinstall the solenoid using a new gasket if needed, and hand-tighten bolts snugly (10 Nm).
Remove and inspect the intake hose for cracks or leaks — repair or replace as needed.
Clean the throttle body plate and bore with throttle body cleaner and a soft cloth.
Reinstall the intake hose and clamps, tightening until snug but not overtightened.
- ericmci
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abscate wrote: ↑13 May 2025, 01:13 P1332 is not a knock sensor code. You have to be careful with code readers and any code thst is manufacturer specific, the text is usually incorrect.
The manufacturer specific codes are formatted P0XXX , text descritions for any code P1XXX or P2XXX are suspect
The cam flank error code presents on startup, after the code is set. It can take several cycles of driving to set the code , so coming and going is a matter of drive cycles , not the fault coming and going.
Probably, your belt is off by a tooth. It has to be in one place on a 1999, unlike the earlier cars that can take a tooth or two off and run ok.
Lots of stiff on cam flank angle here from my Odyssey journey of 2020
viewtopic.php?t=93792&hilit=Cam+flank+angle
The thing is it has been two years since the timing belt job and while the P0014 code has been a semi common thing the P1332 Only showed up in the last two weeks and twice. Just for fun I filled up wiht 93 and so far it hasn't come back in two weeks since. ??
I appreciate the clarification of that code. I am not always happy with generic scanners- my autel with a genuine Volvo database was stolen in the fall at an Ikea of all places!
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So just to clarify ( I'm now also getting the P0014 code ), I need to retard the timing by one tooth. I read the link re flack angle, and in the end both cam sprockets were turned ccw by one tooth. For some reason I thought you'd just retard the exhaust sprocket by one.
And in either case, the preload must be maintained.
And in either case, the preload must be maintained.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
- ericmci
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Hey everyone,
So I finally got a chance to check the timing marks.
I just wanted to make sure that I have located corrct marks.
It look like someone had marked the cog and I believe that silver nub is the mark on the engine?
I will say that I turned the engine over twice and the top marks are just a bit past 12 but both pulleys are the same degree past 12.
(I was turning and a friend called it out late as I was approaching tdc so I skidded just past tdc but- both intake and exhaust are in alignment with their movement
So I would expect the crank to be the same? But this photo *seems* to be a bit before 'noon'
Here is a pict:
Thoughts?
So I finally got a chance to check the timing marks.
I just wanted to make sure that I have located corrct marks.
It look like someone had marked the cog and I believe that silver nub is the mark on the engine?
I will say that I turned the engine over twice and the top marks are just a bit past 12 but both pulleys are the same degree past 12.
(I was turning and a friend called it out late as I was approaching tdc so I skidded just past tdc but- both intake and exhaust are in alignment with their movement
So I would expect the crank to be the same? But this photo *seems* to be a bit before 'noon'
Here is a pict:
Thoughts?
- ericmci
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Some more diagnostic work.
There are some different opinions on what Camshaft position sensor my car should use.
Is it the puck or what I think is in this shot right on the upper engine mount. Also-
I am about ready to try and clean the throttle plate.
1. Do I need to remove the fan for access?
2. Should I remove the ETM entirely, or can I get a decent enough cleaning to work with some spray and a brush moving the plate by hand.
Thanks everyone, I hope I'm not spamming here and hopefully your Memorial Day weekend is going great.
There are some different opinions on what Camshaft position sensor my car should use.
Is it the puck or what I think is in this shot right on the upper engine mount. Also-
I am about ready to try and clean the throttle plate.
1. Do I need to remove the fan for access?
2. Should I remove the ETM entirely, or can I get a decent enough cleaning to work with some spray and a brush moving the plate by hand.
Thanks everyone, I hope I'm not spamming here and hopefully your Memorial Day weekend is going great.
- abscate
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It’s really hard to get access to the throttle body on a turbo 99-00, it sits under the manifold with poor access. You will definitely want the fan out. After you have sworn up a storm removing the four rusty bolts for the fan with vice grips , replace with cheap silver cheese screws ftom Lowes
Parts documented in this thread
viewtopic.php?t=79387&hilit=Radiator+sh ... s&start=20
Parts documented in this thread
viewtopic.php?t=79387&hilit=Radiator+sh ... s&start=20
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- ericmci
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Thanks for that.
It does seem like that will need to be removed. Thanks for the guide with parts list!
I assume you are also advocating for etm removal to clean the the throttle?
I think that will need to be a project for next weekend while I track down a new gasket.
Yeah the fan was o-k not fun to remove when I did the front engine mount a couple of years ago.
Good suggestion to get some new hardware.
It was mostly just fiddly for the tight space when I did it-being careful of wiring and plastics etc.
Any thoughts on the timing marks and if I successfully located the Camshaft Position Sensor>?
Maybe those are two items I can at least cross off the to-do list this weekend.
Thanks again!
-Henrietta will be back to her smooth running self soon.
It does seem like that will need to be removed. Thanks for the guide with parts list!
I assume you are also advocating for etm removal to clean the the throttle?
I think that will need to be a project for next weekend while I track down a new gasket.
Yeah the fan was o-k not fun to remove when I did the front engine mount a couple of years ago.
Good suggestion to get some new hardware.
It was mostly just fiddly for the tight space when I did it-being careful of wiring and plastics etc.
Any thoughts on the timing marks and if I successfully located the Camshaft Position Sensor>?
Maybe those are two items I can at least cross off the to-do list this weekend.
Thanks again!
-Henrietta will be back to her smooth running self soon.
-
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