Can using No-ox-it cause slow starting?

Post by **scot850** » 20 May 2025, 14:46

I have removed all the main engine grounds in the engine bay of a C30 T5 I'm working on for the owner. I used No-Ox-it on all the contacts and relay contacts for the fuses, relays and removable connectors on the main fuse box in the engine bay and completely removed and cleaned the CEM as well.

Now after doing the grounds and engine main fuse box, the car started I would say normally. I have just re-installed the CEM after cleaning.

In both cases I used the ignition switch in Pos II as per Volvo recommendation. I don't like doing that here on Canadian cars as we have DRL's so you get quite a spark as mentioned elsewhere. Anyway did that as per Volvo.

When I tried to start the car (battery has been disconnected during work and was charged shortly before moving to allow the passenger door to open), the engine turned over slowly. Battery is at 12.35V and holding steady and it has a huge battery (970 CA/790 CCA).

Could the use of No-Ox-it and all the terminals caused this. I will recheck the battery ground connection on the battery as I cleaned and used No-Ox-it on the terminals as well.

Appreciate any input/thoughts.

Neil.

Post by **vtl** » 20 May 2025, 15:07

Yeah, you likely added resistance between the battery and the starter.

Post by **scot850** » 20 May 2025, 16:22

So, although they recommend using it on terminals, I think you are likely correct. I will get the terminals off again and re-clean the terminals and see if it improves.

Appreciate the help!

Neil.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 20 May 2025, 19:42

I would question that. NO-OX-Id is specially formulated to conduct electricity. It is not a dielectric grease. I have it on all my volvo fleet at the batery terminals and main engine grounds. My local Ford dealer used it when they installed batery on my F150 recently as well(without me asking, it is standard procedure for them). I doubt you used it as my 4 year old uses Nutella on a crape, so there could be unwanted cross contacts between relays etc.

Post by **vtl** » 21 May 2025, 09:39

Vova585 wrote: ↑20 May 2025, 19:42 I would question that. NO-OX-Id is specially formulated to conduct electricity.

Sure, the question is: does it conduct electricity better than shiny metal clamped tight to shiny metal?

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 21 May 2025, 09:57

vtl wrote: ↑21 May 2025, 09:39
Vova585 wrote: ↑20 May 2025, 19:42 I would question that. NO-OX-Id is specially formulated to conduct electricity.
Sure, the question is: does it conduct electricity better than shiny metal clamped tight to shiny metal?

Excellent question. Prior to me buying that stuff and using on my own cars, I was trying to research it outsode of manufacturers " we are the next best thing behind chocolate chip cookies and sliced bread" adds. I found many clips where lots of toy(please dont be strict here) locomotive enthusiasts are using it in their projects as well as electricians for common household use and marine mechanics. Never co ducted personal test in conductivity with and without, but driving in salt brine 5 month per year it sure protects contacts(personal result, so can be considered anecdotal evidence)

Post by **vtl** » 21 May 2025, 10:09

Yeah, we have more salt than snow, too. I prefer no greasy stuff around my electric contacts, especially high current ones. If it needs a sandpaper then here goes the sandpaper.

Post by **BlackBart** » 21 May 2025, 11:23

Bust out the brass toothbrushes!

Post by **scot850** » 21 May 2025, 17:26

So following on from all the guidance and suggestions above, I went back to the scene of the crime after having the battery on charge for the last 24 hours again.

I disconnected the battery (after putting the key to Pos II!). Disconnected the -ve terminal (as you should first!) and after ensuring it could not jump back and spark on the terminal, cleaned all the (well actually did not seem like a lot) stuff off the terminal with contact cleaner so now it should be clean of an chemicals on that or the battery lead connector.

Next onto the +ve terminal. Now this is what the terminal looked like before starting on the car:

: Before cleaning originally

I cleaned both the terminal and the battery lead clamp previously using one of those tools with the wire brush internal ring for the post and a round wire brush for the cable end connector. Both looked clean.

When I removed it this time I immediately noticed a copper colored high point on the post. Sorry, did not get a picture of it. However, looking into the lead clamp I saw this:

: Battery lead clamp

Yikes! So I think the battery when it was over heated has caused a lot more corrosion to the clamp internal face on the bottom which I had not noticed. This has caused a high spot possibly which I have made worse by perhaps not having the clamp in it's exact original position. Therefor the terminal may only have been contacting the +ve lead over a small portion. with all that nice insulation of oxide and then the layer of No-Ox-ID, it will likely have caused a poor connection which would mirror what my ears were telling me it felt like. I will now have to try to carefully clean that off and hope it has not compromised the contact footprint of the terminal.

So provided the clamp is not compromised, I will try the No=Ox-ID again and confirm if the issue is better or not.

Neil

Post by **scot850** » 27 May 2025, 20:45

Well I cleaned all the dirt and corrosion off the battery clamp and it looked terrible. It has been eaten away by battery acid.

I did a mega junkyard visit last Saturday and the one and only P1 (a 2011 S40 T5) had the same shorty battery clamp so it came home for a few dollars. This is what the original looked like part way through cleaning:

: Corroded P1 +ve battery terminal

It looked even worse after further cleaning to remove the copper oxide. So a replacement as mentioned was substituted after cleaning both terminals and the -ve clamp as well again including terminal cleaner. Decided to try not to use No-Ox-ID on any surfaces as never have up until now to see how it went. Car started immediately and quickly no issues. Much better!

I still plan to protect the battery clamps externally with a terminal grease material (can't remember what it is called).

No issues at all with any of the other systems with the No-Ox-ID on the relays or fuses.

Now on to other things to fix on this car. I'm moving stuff back to the P1 thread and linking this and my other thread to there.

Thanks for the help guys!

Neil.