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Power steering rack leak

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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SS2115
Posts: 43
Joined: 22 September 2015
Year and Model: 850 SE 1995
Location: Australia

Power steering rack leak

Post by SS2115 »

Is it possible to replace the end seal of a power steering rack while the rack is still in the car?
I have one end with quite a leak, but the other end and the pinion shaft are bone dry, clean and dusty. Its only the drivers end that is filling up the boot and leaking past the big end of the boot.
.
It looks possible and with easy access of the wheel removed, but I don't know exactly what is involved for the Volvo 850 or if special tools are required.
I was hoping there might be some information or advice of someone who has tried it as I saw in a couple of forums it can be done but not how and what was required to have ready on hand.
.
Yes - I can appreciate that its best to remove and replace everything, but for the short life the car has remaining and its low value, it just not worth the expense or hassle of taking the rack out for swap or overhaul.
.
Hope someone can advise.

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Post by matthew1 »

Look through this result set... I remember an in situ approach but I don't recall if it was for P2 Volvos.

search.php?keywords=steering+rack+in+situ
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Chuck W
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Post by Chuck W »

If it's on the driver (or pinion) side, then it's the inner rack seal that's gone. That's not removable without pulling the entire rack out of the housing.

I posted up an old PDF of a RHD steering rack rebuild when I went through redoing the rack in my '97. That'll show you what you need to know.
You can find it HERE
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.

The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6

SS2115
Posts: 43
Joined: 22 September 2015
Year and Model: 850 SE 1995
Location: Australia

Post by SS2115 »

Thanks Chuck W.
Unfortunately, our leak is indeed the drivers side (same side as the steering shaft /pinion). Damn!

SS2115
Posts: 43
Joined: 22 September 2015
Year and Model: 850 SE 1995
Location: Australia

Post by SS2115 »

Hi again Chuck W.
Was hoping I could clear up some items in your instructions if I may. *Great by the way.

2.1: removing the steering gear.
I'm okay down to point 9 where you add information.
I have an engine support beam (between the fenders) so my understanding was to support the engine and release just the rear engine mount and the "end" mount (next to the crankshaft pulley at "front" of the engine), after which undo the front subframe bolts about 15 - 20mm and then lower the rear subframe by jack till it stops and get enough room to manhandle the rack out.
I can pull the bolt on the top engine torque rod as well as release the bottom one if necessary.

But your discussing placing jack under the transmission and using it to lower the entire subframe with engine fully attached I think your saying? Thats a lot of weight on the subframe? Unstable balanced on the jack as well?
Have I misunderstood the instructions perhaps?

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Post by abscate »

I lowered the subframe with the engine and transmission held up with the fender to fender brace. There are a lot more disconnects if you want to lower the engine and transmission too.

You can disconnect the steering column in the car and get the no-longer-available universal joint off the rack if you need to replace it or grease it on your bench, much easier than disconnecting the rusted splines underneath
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Post by Chuck W »

SS2115 wrote: 19 Jun 2025, 22:58 Hi again Chuck W.
Was hoping I could clear up some items in your instructions if I may. *Great by the way.

2.1: removing the steering gear.
I'm okay down to point 9 where you add information.
I have an engine support beam (between the fenders) so my understanding was to support the engine and release just the rear engine mount and the "end" mount (next to the crankshaft pulley at "front" of the engine), after which undo the front subframe bolts about 15 - 20mm and then lower the rear subframe by jack till it stops and get enough room to manhandle the rack out.
I can pull the bolt on the top engine torque rod as well as release the bottom one if necessary.

But your discussing placing jack under the transmission and using it to lower the entire subframe with engine fully attached I think your saying? Thats a lot of weight on the subframe? Unstable balanced on the jack as well?
Have I misunderstood the instructions perhaps?
Those are not my instructions in that PDF. It's an OLD one I've had for a while and can't find the original source. The thread I posted it in covers my removal and rebuild of the steering rack. The PDF was more to help with a breakdown of disassembly, etc.

I left the engine and trans in place, and used a support beam to hold them. I removed the entire subframe, with the rack attached. It's easier to work with. I've removed racks, etc with the subframe supported but dropped a bit, and it's a PITA. Dropping the subframe is just easier for me.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.

The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6

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