Is it possible to replace the end seal of a power steering rack while the rack is still in the car?
I have one end with quite a leak, but the other end and the pinion shaft are bone dry, clean and dusty. Its only the drivers end that is filling up the boot and leaking past the big end of the boot.
.
It looks possible and with easy access of the wheel removed, but I don't know exactly what is involved for the Volvo 850 or if special tools are required.
I was hoping there might be some information or advice of someone who has tried it as I saw in a couple of forums it can be done but not how and what was required to have ready on hand.
.
Yes - I can appreciate that its best to remove and replace everything, but for the short life the car has remaining and its low value, it just not worth the expense or hassle of taking the rack out for swap or overhaul.
.
Hope someone can advise.
Power steering rack leak
- matthew1
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Look through this result set... I remember an in situ approach but I don't recall if it was for P2 Volvos.
search.php?keywords=steering+rack+in+situ
search.php?keywords=steering+rack+in+situ
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
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- Chuck W
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If it's on the driver (or pinion) side, then it's the inner rack seal that's gone. That's not removable without pulling the entire rack out of the housing.
I posted up an old PDF of a RHD steering rack rebuild when I went through redoing the rack in my '97. That'll show you what you need to know.
You can find it HERE
I posted up an old PDF of a RHD steering rack rebuild when I went through redoing the rack in my '97. That'll show you what you need to know.
You can find it HERE
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
Hi again Chuck W.
Was hoping I could clear up some items in your instructions if I may. *Great by the way.
2.1: removing the steering gear.
I'm okay down to point 9 where you add information.
I have an engine support beam (between the fenders) so my understanding was to support the engine and release just the rear engine mount and the "end" mount (next to the crankshaft pulley at "front" of the engine), after which undo the front subframe bolts about 15 - 20mm and then lower the rear subframe by jack till it stops and get enough room to manhandle the rack out.
I can pull the bolt on the top engine torque rod as well as release the bottom one if necessary.
But your discussing placing jack under the transmission and using it to lower the entire subframe with engine fully attached I think your saying? Thats a lot of weight on the subframe? Unstable balanced on the jack as well?
Have I misunderstood the instructions perhaps?
Was hoping I could clear up some items in your instructions if I may. *Great by the way.
2.1: removing the steering gear.
I'm okay down to point 9 where you add information.
I have an engine support beam (between the fenders) so my understanding was to support the engine and release just the rear engine mount and the "end" mount (next to the crankshaft pulley at "front" of the engine), after which undo the front subframe bolts about 15 - 20mm and then lower the rear subframe by jack till it stops and get enough room to manhandle the rack out.
I can pull the bolt on the top engine torque rod as well as release the bottom one if necessary.
But your discussing placing jack under the transmission and using it to lower the entire subframe with engine fully attached I think your saying? Thats a lot of weight on the subframe? Unstable balanced on the jack as well?
Have I misunderstood the instructions perhaps?
- abscate
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I lowered the subframe with the engine and transmission held up with the fender to fender brace. There are a lot more disconnects if you want to lower the engine and transmission too.
You can disconnect the steering column in the car and get the no-longer-available universal joint off the rack if you need to replace it or grease it on your bench, much easier than disconnecting the rusted splines underneath
You can disconnect the steering column in the car and get the no-longer-available universal joint off the rack if you need to replace it or grease it on your bench, much easier than disconnecting the rusted splines underneath
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- Chuck W
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Those are not my instructions in that PDF. It's an OLD one I've had for a while and can't find the original source. The thread I posted it in covers my removal and rebuild of the steering rack. The PDF was more to help with a breakdown of disassembly, etc.SS2115 wrote: ↑19 Jun 2025, 22:58 Hi again Chuck W.
Was hoping I could clear up some items in your instructions if I may. *Great by the way.
2.1: removing the steering gear.
I'm okay down to point 9 where you add information.
I have an engine support beam (between the fenders) so my understanding was to support the engine and release just the rear engine mount and the "end" mount (next to the crankshaft pulley at "front" of the engine), after which undo the front subframe bolts about 15 - 20mm and then lower the rear subframe by jack till it stops and get enough room to manhandle the rack out.
I can pull the bolt on the top engine torque rod as well as release the bottom one if necessary.
But your discussing placing jack under the transmission and using it to lower the entire subframe with engine fully attached I think your saying? Thats a lot of weight on the subframe? Unstable balanced on the jack as well?
Have I misunderstood the instructions perhaps?
I left the engine and trans in place, and used a support beam to hold them. I removed the entire subframe, with the rack attached. It's easier to work with. I've removed racks, etc with the subframe supported but dropped a bit, and it's a PITA. Dropping the subframe is just easier for me.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
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