Dipstick pops out

[scot850]

My understanding is many manual trans cars have a safety neutral switch to preventing starting a car in gear. You have to press the clutch down to over ride the neutral switch before the car will start. Still not sure like you, how that would work on a manual car other than putting in gear and slipping the clutch with the parking brake on. I would not recommend it.

The rubber O'ring's do shrink with age and become oil soaked. I had a P80 that would blow the dip-stick out even aver the 2nd rebuild of the PCV system and double checking that there were no blockages. Replacing the dipstick o-ring cured the issue. The caution here is. Check the system thoroughly for possible blockages even if the o-ring fixes it. A dealer has a system that pressure checks the crankcase pressure fully. It may be worth have a 1 hour diagnostic done on it or ask them how much they would charge. That way you know for sure. Just a suggestion!

Neil.

[imaV70Rdriver]

I wasn’t convinced that I had a proper seal yesterday, so today I redid the glove test and I definitely did get a good seal today. I started the car from cold. The glove inflated almost immediately, but then deflated almost as quickly as it inflated. And then it started to suck into the hole (at high idle before the revs dropped). I hadn’t done anything but start the car at this point. Then I brought it up to about 2500 rpms. The glove stayed sucked in while revving the engine, and remained sucked in when I let off the gas and let the engine drop to idle. The glove also remained under vacuum after the engine was shut off.

The glove was still under vacuum the second time I started the engine, and this time I let the engine revs drop to about 800 rpm on their own before revving.
The glove didn’t inflate on the second start as much as the first time, but filled about “half” pressure right away (it didn’t stand straight up, it was just laying sideways but it did have air in it). By the time the revs dropped, the glove was sucked in pretty good, and it only inflated a little bit when I hit the gas, but pretty quickly started to suck in as I brought the revs up to 2500 rpm. I let off the gas and the glove remained under vacuum as the revs dropped to idle, and stayed that way at idle. The glove also remained sucked in after shutting down the engine.

Any thoughts? My video’s are too large to upload but I have described accurately what happened the two times I started the engine. Let me know if I need to clarify anything. Thanks again.

[vtl]

Without car thinking it's ready to move, ECM does not command boost. You still may be testing no-boost part of the PCV. Do you have DiCE/VIDA to confirm you actually have boost under test?

Oil filler is located directly above camshaft lobes of the third cylinder. There's air swirls and oil splashes as well, the glove will move somewhat because of that. You can see it clearly in my video viewtopic.php?p=664437#p664437

[imaV70Rdriver]

Today I started the engine from cold. The glove 3/4 inflated right away but then deflated just as quickly. At high idle the glove was only partially sucked into the hole, and fully sucked in when the revs dropped to idle.

I had the car on my very short sloped driveway (facing uphill), and drove off. The glove fully inflated and deflated when I crested the hump at the road. I drove slowly towards the hill on the road (again facing uphill) and the glove was not inflated during this 30 foot drive. I stopped at the bottom of the hill to let the camera man walk up the hill a bit, then accelerated up the hill. Upon applying the gas, the glove inflated fully and stayed inflated as I drove up the hill.

That’s a fail, right?

Does it indicate a specific location in the system that is blocked?

The video can be viewed on YT. (Sorry, I don’t know how to imbed it here.)

[jonesg]

fail

[vtl]

Try to replace the banjo bolt first. Need to remove PS pump and alternator.

[jonesg]

I use a cheap turbo/vac gauge mounted on the A pillar ( IPD $70.)
It shows exactly when the turbo is boosting and immediate vacuum when I ease off the gas pedal.
That shows everything is functioning at a glance, TCV, wastegate etc.
If a glove still inflates or pushes seals out under load then the plumbing under the intake would be blocked.
It helps to know some history of the car, when was it last done.
If you don't know then, same as the timing belt, considering the symptoms and age ...its due.

[imaV70Rdriver]

@jonesg,
I’ve the car for 11 years. I bought it at 109,000 miles and the timing belt was done as a condition of sale. Currently the car has about 186,000 miles. I don’t believe the PCV system has ever had any work done on it.

Did you use this kit? https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4674/IP ... -for-Volvo
Or did you mount it elsewhere? And would you mount it somewhere different if you were to do it again?

[vtl]

You can go ahead and plan a day or two for overhauling the PCV. May need to drop the oil pan and clean the passage. And replace all the O-rings in pan.

My 2005 had two full PCV replacements, and I'm thinking I need to do it again soon, just to be safe. That long heated hose clogs up quick, and I broke and patched it while working on engine rebuild anyways.

[imaV70Rdriver]

@vti,
Earlier you mentioned that the banjo bolt has a valve that gets gummed up. I saw a video that showed this tube also gets gummed up: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... o-30731007
Some people have just replaced that part of the hose. I realize that it might be very difficult to make the crimp clamp connections to the “long expensive hose” (you mentioned earlier) without removing it, so were you thinking to just change the banjo bolt itself, then redo the glove test? If I already need to remove the PS pump and alternator, and the hose above turns out to be plugged, would it be time better spent to just do the whole system and be done with it? Sure it would be great to just fix the culprit, but it does seem like I could spend a lot of time chasing it down.
Since it is a fairly high mileage engine, would it make sense to do a compression test and/or leak down test to see if there is a major engine issue (bad ring seal, or out-of-round cylinders)? There’s not much point getting a Genuine Volvo kit for over $500 and putting it on a bad engine.