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Should I continue with the Volvo 850? Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Vulva15853
Posts: 3
Joined: 19 June 2025
Year and Model: 1997 850 GLT
Location: Ridgway, PA

Should I continue with the Volvo 850?

Post by Vulva15853 »

I picked her up for $500. She has 120,000 miles on the odometer, interior is pretty minty, all power options work (except for A/C) No signs of rust anywhere on the exterior even underneath. The glove test failed, so I did the PCV cleaning/upgrade and found that the PO recently had done these (he had died, I wasn't able to confirm this until I dug into it). I'm still getting excessive pressure from the dipstick and oil filler. Should I keep digging and fix her or cut my losses and send her to the junk yard?

Vulva15853
Posts: 3
Joined: 19 June 2025
Year and Model: 1997 850 GLT
Location: Ridgway, PA

Post by Vulva15853 »

I've also replaced all the vacuum lines and one-way valves.

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Sveedy
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Post by Sveedy »

Keep it. Particularly if it's rust free. If you toss it, you'll just end up looking back and thinking " What if I'd done this ...?"
If the car has been sitting awhile the rings might be a bit stuck. At least keep digging and do a compression test etc. 120,00 is pretty low for its age.
At a $500 starting point, you have a bit of room to play.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.


1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT

454cid
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Post by 454cid »

Junk yard? That seems extreme.
1996 850
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)

2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
1969 Buick LeSabre Custom 400

Vova585
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Post by Vova585 »

In some instances the oil pan needs to be dropped to properly clear all passages. Engine overall is pretty simple without much electronics, one can possibly justify to throw a new set of piston rings as minimal investment.(minus time dedication)

wheelsup
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Post by wheelsup »

If you want a cheap easy fix, just pull the oil dipstick out and attach radiator hose or similar to the tube and route it underneath the engine bay. This will alleviate the pressure in the crankcase and preserve the RMS.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles

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DennisCA
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Post by DennisCA »

An 850 is definitely worth it. Any late 90s car in good working condition and without rust issues, particularly a Volvo, is worth a lot.

Consider the development of cars since 2000 and the state we're in 2025. Having an old reliable car in the future is just getting harder and harder.

These cars will become worth more simply because of this as the new reality and cost of cars starts sinking in with people . I'm already seeing the beginning rumblings and things will grow worse IMO. Imagine being say the 3rd or 4th owner of a 15 year old wet belt engine car and no parts have existed for it for 5 years, yeah that's the future.

5underpressure
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Post by 5underpressure »

For most any vehicle not rusty, the junkyard is a terrible place for it to go.

Vulva15853
Posts: 3
Joined: 19 June 2025
Year and Model: 1997 850 GLT
Location: Ridgway, PA

Post by Vulva15853 »

wheelsup wrote: 23 Jun 2025, 22:25 If you want a cheap easy fix, just pull the oil dipstick out and attach radiator hose or similar to the tube and route it underneath the engine bay. This will alleviate the pressure in the crankcase and preserve the RMS.
How long can you run these with this "fix"?

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

5underpressure wrote: 24 Jun 2025, 12:01 For most any vehicle not rusty, the junkyard is a terrible place for it to go.
When they do go they should look like this….
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Empty Nester
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