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Bottom Side Worklist XC70

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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BlackBart
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Bottom Side Worklist XC70

Post by BlackBart »

(2004 XC70)

I really need to replace my front subframe bushings. I have new ones plus new bolts and the fat O-rings that go in between. It seems like a really serious job, but Blacklab's excellent write-up and advice has me planning on jumping in. My wife is making noises about a spontaneous trip to Colorado, which to me means "not spontaneous at ALL," the car needs work! I'm uncomfortable heading out through the middle of nowhere with strange noises and problems underneath.

I also have other parts that only make sense to replace with the subframe loose and one-time bolts to replace. Subframe bushings, motor mounts, Ipd sway bars, end links, an axle, drain and fill ATF, oil change.

So I'm thinking out loud here to figure out logical steps -

• Lift front / jack stands / wheels off

Lower rear half of subframe, support engine with jack.
Remove cross-brace above engine.
End links off, wrestle sway bar out, new back in, new mounts. (how much exhaust and plumbing is in the way?)
Replace rear motor mount.
Drill, remove and replace (2) subframe bushings. (add O-rings above subframe)
Raise rear subframe, attach motor mount.
While I'm in here, remove and replace the RF axle shaft which has broken boots.
Move jackstands / lower front edge subframe / support engine with jack.
Remove and replace front motor mount.
Drill, remove and replace (2) subframe bushings. (add O-rings above subframe)
Support engine sump at timing belt end.
Remove crank pully motor mount.
Raise subframe, attach crank and front motor mounts.
Replace end links (the ones on there are almost new, I must have ordered twice).
I believe I've replaced the upper engine mount at the crossbrace, as well as the drag-link underneath.
ATF drain and fill. Oil change.
New Ipd skidplate installed.

• Rear Suspension

Lift rear / jackstands. Wheels off.
End links off.
Loosen exhaust, lower rear. (silicone spray on hanger rubber)
Remove sway bar bushing brackets.
Remove one strut / spring.
Wrestle sway bar out the side. (I don't think this is easy)
Change Haldex filter and oil.
Wrestle new swaybar in / line up new bushings and mounts. (grease bushings)
Verify alignment / tighten down mounts.
Connect end links.
Exhaust back up, tighten everything.
Strut back in and tightened down.

WHew..... can I do this in a weekend?


I have a replacement fog light and windshield washer pump - that can be a separate job, bumper off.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

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DavidE7
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Post by DavidE7 »

That is a lot for one weekend! You will also need a four wheel alignment after it is all done. That last step at an outside shop always slows down my plans.

A Harbor Freight engine support makes the engine mounts easier but a piece of wood under the oil pan also works.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-c ... 96524.html
Getting the bolt for the rear mount is easier with extra clearance from the subframe.
David E
2001 Moondust V70 2.4 293,000 miles
2001 Nautic Blue V70 2.4 224,000 miles
2004 Nautic Blue XC70 2.5T 251,000 miles
new: 2004 Black Saphire V70R 193,000 miles
2007 Titanium S60 2.5T 275,000 miles
2007 Magic Blue S60 2.5T 233,000 miles
2007 Silver V70 2.4 200,000 miles
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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

Yeah, I am probably once again way overestimating what I can get done. And of course nothing will go wrong and nothing will break and I'll have the right tool........
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

What a joke, thinking I could do all that. I'm days into this and running into roadblocks one after another. Good thing we don't commute to work.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

Vova585
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Post by Vova585 »

I would suggest to rent a capable car with good road clearance in case you would like to do Trail Ridge Road or other fun destinations. If you would travel by yourself- yes, take xc70. With wife- in case something will break you will be hearing how you ruined family vocation....
On the other note-if you have a good mechanic with good lift-pay him to do those bushings and alignment. Not a fun job laying on your back

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Getting older I limit my garage stints to 4 hours. That’s enough wrenching and calisthenics for me to put my tools down and relax, and go at it another day.

When I did my clutch on my P2 I planned it over 2 weekends , 4 hours per day and I learned it was much nicer on me.

That was 10 years ago, and despite my painting in the attic, I have still aged
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Post by xHeart »

abscate wrote: 07 Jul 2025, 04:11 Getting older I limit my garage stints to 4 hours. That’s enough wrenching and calisthenics for me to put my tools down and relax, and go at it another day.
+1
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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

Yeah, it's like lifting weights for 9 hours, not enough water, all bent up underneath there. No wonder you're sore all over.

If I knew what I was doing, it would have been done long ago.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

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Post by vtl »

I limit it to just one complete Volvo overhaul per life.

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I was reading your post on the steering coupler troubles. I think you may have things separated too far. You shouldn't have to have the subframe dropped in the front or back more that an inch and a half or 2 inches to get the bushings changed or the rear motor mount to change them, same with the front, also it is not necessary to remove the steering coupler although some recommend it. I know you're probably frustrated but I think if it wasn't dropped so much and the engine lifted up so much you may have an easier time.
The rear subframe bushing picture where the bolt is being used to suck the bushing in would line up better and go in straight if you were to use a prybar to orient the subframe more in line with the unibody, then the bolt would be straighter and the bushing would go in straight. Just trying to give advice from the pictures you posted.
Progress report so far?
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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