Timing Belt Sync 2005 Volvo S60 Turbo AWD Topic is solved

jotoya · Post by **jotoya** » 14 Jul 2025, 21:49

I know there are a kabillion post/videos regarding timing belt installation and whatnot. But it seems that I can never find information specifically for a 2005 S60. All of this to say that I have R&R my timing belt....BUT, I am scared out of my mind to fire up the car because I simply cannot tell where it aligns in the crankshaft. I've viewed the FCPeuro video and that's an 04 S60. What Jay says in the video, it simply does not exist in my 05.

Now, I have turned the motor a few times and then aligned my top cam notches. From there, I turned the crankshaft twice (full rotation I believe) and after those 2 turns, the cam marks align again.

All should be aligned now correct? Any guidance is appreciated.

Many thanks,
Jose

Reneartell · Post by **Reneartell** » 15 Jul 2025, 08:53

jotoya wrote: ↑14 Jul 2025, 21:49 I know there are a kabillion post/videos regarding timing belt installation and whatnot. But it seems that I can never find information specifically for a 2005 S60. All of this to say that I have R&R my timing belt....BUT, I am scared out of my mind to fire up the car because I simply cannot tell where it aligns in the crankshaft. I've viewed the FCPeuro video and that's an 04 S60. What Jay says in the video, it simply does not exist in my 05.

Now, I have turned the motor a few times and then aligned my top cam notches. From there, I turned the crankshaft twice (full rotation I believe) and after those 2 turns, the cam marks align again.

All should be aligned now correct? Any guidance is appreciated.

Many thanks,
Jose

Yes, if after two crankshaft revolutions the cam marks are still aligned, the valve train is properly aligned. You can safely start the car, as long as there are no signs of impact or resistance when cranking.

jotoya · Post by **jotoya** » 15 Jul 2025, 09:02

Many, many thanks Rene. I am not at place to test, but as soon as I do, I will follow up on this post to confirm.

jotoya · Post by **jotoya** » 15 Jul 2025, 19:06

Well. No cigar.

It cranked but the engine was not firing up. I thought it may have been fuel pressure not built up but that didn't seem to be the answer either. I didn't hear any "nasty" sounds so I'm hoping I haven't killed my engine. No codes that I could find but then again I don't own a professional level scanner.

Thanks again, Rene.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jul 2025, 04:20

Back to basics.

A shot of ether will quickly tell you if it’s a spark or a fuel delivery problem. With coil on plug cars, it’s more likely fuel pump relay/PEM/fuel pump, but diagnostics save time/money

Post by **chrism** » 16 Jul 2025, 19:43

I find it helpful to Sharpie-mark alignment marks on the sprocket and a spot on the adjacent engine casing before removing the old belt- at least on the crank sprocket. You can usually see the cam sprocket’s factory marks OK.
An interesting method I read about to replace the belt is to cut the old belt down its center line all the way around the entire belt and slip just the outer half off of the sprockets. Then slip the new belt as far as you can. Cut and remove the remaining half of the old belt from the sprockets and slide the new belt the rest of the way on. I’ve never tried that method but it sounded interesting.

jotoya · Post by **jotoya** » 16 Jul 2025, 19:49

Chrism and Abscate,

Many thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated!

I decided to throw in the towel and took it to a shop. I will post whatever it is they found out.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jul 2025, 11:19

An interesting method I read about to replace the belt is to cut the old belt down its center line all the way around the entire belt and slip just the outer half off of the sprockets. Then slip the new belt as far as you can. Cut and remove the remaining half of the old belt from the sprockets and slide the new belt the rest of the way on. I’ve never tried that method but it sounded interesting

That is intriguing.

I bet you can glue the two halves back together, too.

Post by **chrism** » 17 Jul 2025, 12:37

I’d have to assume that method is for the person that doesn’t want to replace the tensioner and idler or check for play in the water pump. Just a quick and dirty belt replacement.

Post by **jonesg** » 17 Jul 2025, 15:47

I had an older volvo 740 before my "modern" 2004 V70.
Theres a neat cam gear locking tool for the front end of the cams of the older red block engines.
It can be made to jam the cam gears by only engaging 3 of the 4 pins.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... wE#fitment