What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[volvolugnut]

I don't see that anyone suggested using a 'Left Hand' drill bit which will help to reverse the broken stud when the bit cuts. These are generally available where broken bolt extractors are sold.
volvolugnut

[scot850]

Very good point. If you are lucky it might shock the remains enough to turn themselves out. It is only a M6 bolt.

Neil.

[abscate]

If that’s the rotor locator bolt I would just skip it entirely. Just use the lug bolts to hold the rotor.

Horsepower adds speed in the straightaways, but deleting a m6 bolt adds speed everywhere

[manovlov]

If that’s the rotor locator bolt I would just skip it entirely. Just use the lug bolts to hold the rotor.

Horsepower adds speed in the straightaways, but deleting a m6 bolt adds speed everywhere

Salut Abscate,

I understand. But when i brake, i feel a very little shock coming from the fact the disk "moves". However, i've controlled the way all the front brakes are fixed, everything is allright... That's why i would try to recover the fix point...

[scot850]

If you have the rotor with the broken bolt with the hole over it and you should not feel vibration. If you do the face of the hub or the back of the disc are corroded and not sitting flat to each other. That or the rotor is warped. Once the lug bolts are tight the rotor should not move. I appreciate having as it was created though!

Neil.

[manovlov]

If you have the rotor with the broken bolt with the hole over it and you should not feel vibration. If you do the face of the hub or the back of the disc are corroded and not sitting flat to each other. That or the rotor is warped. Once the lug bolts are tight the rotor should not move. I appreciate having as it was created though!

Neil.

Thanks Neil. I think you're right. I will change brake disks first. Pads are ok. It should solve the issue.

[DennisCA]

I welded up a new rear exhaust




I filled up the groove under the window with sikaflex instead of putting in a new trim piece in. This is supposed to work better at keeping crap out and no metal inside the trim to rust.


But today when it had cured it was full of blisters At least sikaflex can be glued onto so I'll get a black piece of trim with glue backing and cover it over.



I also replaced the left side hand brake cable. Whatever original screw attachment was here was long gone so I replaced it with an M6 screw


And I had nothing to hold the new parking brake to the rear axle so I made my own from stainless shim stock and some shears, deburred the insides so it shouldn't dig into the cable.


And what did I find at the bottom of the floor, under the mats and insulation when I was removing the old parking brake cable? An old finnish 5-mark coin, equivalent of maybe 90 euro cents.

[Sveedy]

I've found (and left) many a coin in projects with the date matching the manufacture. But I haven't seen it in a car before. Way cool !

[abscate]

]I finished the deck while Robert did Timeserts on my cover.

I took Elizabeth for a spin and opened up the 16T.

She’s Back

[ZionXIX]

...

I fight with an old 850 issue, if i do remember well what Abscate told me once. What kind of tungsten carbide metal drill bit could someone recommend to me to get out of this issue ? My metals drills break the ones after the others. And as the fuel system is open near, i can't heat the hub.
Screw.png

I dont know if you're still working on this, but have you considered removing the wheel bearing entirely so you can get away from the fuel tank and work on this at a bench?