1998 240Dl lopes or shudders

dannym · Post by **dannym** » 19 Sep 2008, 13:03

Yeah I reviewed thge Haynes manual and some instructions here & at Brickyard.
Seems pretty straight forward.

I'm going to have some questions like do you really need to remove the crankshaft pully? Can't you remove the timing belt by loosening the tensioner?

Also what special tools if any do you think this job needs?

Thanks

Danny

Post by **billofdurham** » 20 Sep 2008, 11:47

If you are only doing the cylinder head gasket yoy can get away without removing the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt - if you are careful.

These attachments are from a Volvo publication and explain how to do it. It should not be necessary to remove the camshaft sprocket so you should not need the tool mentioned.

The inspection of the head is vital. Any good machine shop should be able to check it properly for you if you are wary of doing this yourself.

You will need a torque wrench when replacing the head. If there is any doubt about the integrity of the head bolts, change them. I would not re-use them.

If you have any more questions, ask.

Bill.

dannym · Post by **dannym** » 20 Sep 2008, 23:33

Thanks, Pulling the crankshaft pulley just didn't make sense.
I didn't know the head bolts come out different than they go in either.

I want to remove the timing belt to change it. I'll probably replace the tensioner too.
And while I'm at it I want to check the valve lash and get any shims I may need and position them while the camshaft is out.

It looks like valve seals come in the kit. will a spring compressor rental from AutoZone work?

I'll probably replace the water pump. Clean the throttle body, The flame trap will be easy to get to with everything out.

Sounds like a nice project. I just hope it doesn't become a money pit.

Post by **billofdurham** » 21 Sep 2008, 11:05

The guide from the Volvo book is for changing the head gasket without changing the timing belt. To change the belt you need to remove the crankshaft pulley as it is the only way to remove the belt cover.

An Autozone valve spring compressor should work.

Your project is growing. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Bill.

dannym · Post by **dannym** » 24 Sep 2008, 08:00

Do you have any tips on removing the crankshaft pulley?
It's not reverse threaded is it?

I'm going to get this puller to get it off:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=37824

Is there just the one big bolt in the center?
Do you have to protect the crankshaft threads?

I've never taken one of these off before so any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Post by **billofdurham** » 24 Sep 2008, 12:16

The crankshaft bolt is not reverse threaded.

That puller looks effective and reasonably priced but your main problem, getting the crankshaft bolt loosened, will not be solved by it.

Volvo has a special tool which holds the pulley whilst the bolt is removed.

Here are two links to help with your problem:

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/ ... nsioner_PM

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/ ... der%20Tool

The second one shows how a tool can be made.

Also look at: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... hp?t=16354

to read how markvt solved the problem with a little ingenuity.

Also note wojeepsters' comments.

Bill.

dannym · Post by **dannym** » 24 Sep 2008, 13:16

Bill-

The Hayne's manual says to remove the torque converter access panel and jam a screwdriver or pry bar in there so it doesn't move.
If that doesn't work I'll try jamming the socket wrench and bumping the starter.
And if that doesn't work I'll try to make a holding tool.

Is removing the starter and jamming the gears only good for tightening the pulley or can you do that to loosen it?

Stay tuned

Post by **billofdurham** » 24 Sep 2008, 15:11

I'm not sure of what the US Haynes says but the UK version suggests removing the starter motor and jamming the flywheel with a screwdriver. That was how I did it on the 240, 740 and 940 - all the same engine type.

It can be used for both loosening and tightening the bolt but you do need an assistant to hold the screwdriver so the car has to be jacked up and on axle stands for safety.

Bill.

wojeepster · Post by **wojeepster** » 24 Sep 2008, 20:25

If it is an automatic it is the vacuum modulator diaphram is ruptured. Does the puffy white smoke smell like atf?

dannym · Post by **dannym** » 25 Sep 2008, 08:09

Vacuum Modulator Diaghram??
I'll have to look into that.

The smell was definitely anti-freeze. You can't mistake that smell. Also spark plug #3 was coated in a white/brown coating.

I took the head off last night. The metal seal around cylinders 2 &3 were worn and totally gone in some places. I'll try to take pictures but it will have to wait till Tuesday.

I got the bolt off but I couldn't get the crank pulley off! The pulley doesn't have bolt holes in it. How do you use the puller if you can't bolt it to the pulley?
Are you supposed to get behind it somehow?