Replacing Haldex 3 Pump and Filter, 2007 XC70.

[Blacklab467]

Around this time of year all there are many posts on Volvo forums querying why their AWD is not working or how to diagnose or change a Haldex pump. A non functioning AWD system can go unnoticed throughout the summer months and then become blatantly obvious come first snowfall.
I should mention that there are many components that can fail causing a loss of AWD and that thorough troubleshooting should be done prior to diagnosing a failure of the Haldex pump as mine had. Angle gear, collar sleeve and DEM failures can also cause the AWD system to not work properly. Haldex pumps are a fairly common failure on P2's so I elected to do a step by step tutorial on how to change it as I just finished the job today. If you suspect a bad Haldex pump, you can disconnect the pigtail and put 12 volts to the pump and hear for sound of it operating.

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I ordered the Haldex Service Kit from FCP which includes a new pump, filter, filter cover, and one litre of Haldex Fluid. These parts can also be ordered separately. Note: the pump comes with a new 24mm flange nut with thread lock on the threads. Do not reuse your old flange nut!

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Raise the car on a lift or jack stands on all four corners, lift it at least 6 inches off the ground to give yourself lots of working space.
I like to "drop" the exhaust to give myself more room to work. I remove the 3 rubber exhaust hangers aft of the rear axle and lower the exhaust to the floor and as far toward the driver's side as it will go.

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Next, remove the six 8mm hex bolts connecting the propshaft to the Haldex flange, I disconnect the battery for this job because you'll need the car in drive or neutral for a while to rotate the shaft to get at all the bolts. You can now remove the propshaft centre support (4 10mm bolts) and lower it on top of the lowered exhaust. You do not have to remove the propshaft from the front at the Angle Gear if you're only changing the pump and filter.

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You'll probably find that the rear propshaft CV will not come out of the Haldex flange easily at this point. Often they get bound by rust and can be easily separated with penetrating fluid and it will probably be necessary to tap it loose from behind the flange. For this purpose there are 4 non threaded holes that I used a bolt and punch to tap the propshaft from behind. The bolt was 35mm long and I had ground the threads off of it, put it in the hole and gave it a few taps with a hammer and drift, rotated the flange and repeated on the other holes until it came loose. Mark the orientation of the shaft to flange with a paint pen.
Now you can remove the rear of the propshaft from the flange by angleing the propshaft at the centre U-joint to gain enough clearance.

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The flange nut is 24mm and is torqued to 150Nm. I used an electric impact wrench to remove this nut and then marked the orientation with a white paint pen. The flange will come loose with some light tapping from behind with a hammer and brass punch and a small amount of fluid should come out upon removal of the flange. I also bought a new seal for the flange but elected not to change it as there were no leaks.

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Now you have good access to the filter cover and pump, both of which are held on by 4mm Allen bolts. It doesn't matter which one you remove first but collect the fluid in a clean container to inspect for cleanliness and particles when you remove these components. Let it drain for a half hour or so. Installation of the new pump is the reverse of removal and straightforward, connect the pump electric pigtail till you hear a solid "click".

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Reinstall the flange and nut and torque to 150Nm. You'll probably need something to keep the flange from rotating like a chain or nylon strap with a 3/8 drive (like an oil filter strap wrench).
Put the propshaft end into the flange, do not start the bolts yet though, instead reattach the centre support bolts. Then you can re-orient the shaft to the flange with your paint marks and start and tighten the 6 Allen bolts to 25 Nm. Reattach the exhaust system with the 3 rubber donuts.
The fill plug is a 13 mm bolt on the driver's side of the Haldex unit, about 8 inches behind the pump and high up on the Haldex unit.

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I used a small hose and syringe to fill about 450ml till it spilled out, then put the plug in and hooked the battery up and started the car. I ran it in drive for awhile then reverse, making sure the rear wheels now turned........success! Go back underneath and refill the Haldex till it spills out. Remove an additional 100ml and tighten the plug to 15 Nm. There seems to be some debate about removing 60 or 100 ml after the fluid spills out, it seems that most people neglect this step. Clarification would be appreciated if someone has VIDA available.
This is a pretty easy job that should take 3-4 hours working leisurely with hand tools. I had wanted to do a more thorough job as I've done in the past involving removing the whole propshaft to clean and relubricate the CV's, it also makes sense to remove the Angle gear and change the fluid and inspect the collar sleeve and AG input splines, then you have a clean view to inspect the underside of the turbocharger for leaks etc. I'll have to get back under the car in the summer to inspect the other items due to time constraints.

Parts: I have used a Dorman brand pump in the past.....it lasted 6 months. I now use only Volvo Blue box parts.
Haldex service kit. Pn: 503621 $ 547.41.
Pump. Pn: 30783079 $ 426.99.
Filter Kit. Pn 30787687. $ 77.41.
Flange Seal. Pn:8675238. $ 17.72.

[BlackBart]

Outstanding, thanks for this!

[vtl]

Depending on your luck, you may need to at least partially unbolt the front CV, or you the rear one will not clear the flange.

FCP does not supply the seal in the kit. Makes sense to go ahead and replace it at this time, since it is so available.

My old flange developed a leak via splines. I got a replacement for manual gearbox, it is twice cheaper and does not come with vibration dumper. 20 years old one was falling apart anyways, don't think I made it any worse

Also used PTFE spline grease on the outer part of the flange's splines to stop similar leaks in the future.

BorgWarner acquired Haldex Traction a few years ago. BW pumps and filters are OE quality. Price-wise it's not that cheaper than blue box, but still a bit cheaper.

So, I was looking at the pump last days via my dash display, and the pump was not working until oil heats up to around 60F. First start in the morning - the pump works for a minute and then stops. The second start, with oil already warm, it works again. Haven't seen any outrageous pump currents either. Apparently this can't be detected in summer, because it genuinely works 100% of time in hot weather.

[Blacklab467]

So, I was looking at the pump last days via my dash display, and the pump was not working until oil heats up to around 60F. First start in the morning - the pump works for a minute and then stops. The second start, with oil already warm, it works again. Haven't seen any outrageous pump currents either. Apparently this can't be detected in summer, because it genuinely works 100% of time in hot weather.

Interesting point, I noticed my pump not working a couple months ago during our first cold snap, tested it on car with 12V and it still didn't work, removed the pump yesterday on the bench and it seemed to work fine with no fluid to push. I suppose they get weak and don't work and/or don't work under a load or when cold.

[vtl]

I suppose they get weak and don't work and/or don't work under a load or when cold.

Yep. Haldex fluid has a wax in it that condenses in cold. Old pump does not have juice to overcome viscosity of wax, electronics look at low pressure for a bit and declares a failure, stopping pump altogether.

I tried Febi-Bilstein fluid this time. It smells differently than Volvo AOC fluid I used for 1.5 decades. But that could be Haldex changing formula, since wax is killing these pumps in cold weather.

[Blacklab467]

This is from the bottle of Haldex fluid I bought about 6 years ago, there was about 200ml left in the bottle. My garage is heated to about 12 degrees Celsius. It's a good thing I had a new bottle yesterday! These were definitely waxy chunks, Im thinking they get heavier when the fluid gets cold.

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[BlackBart]

What is the reason for removing some oil after topping it up? And what happens if you just fill it to dribbling out?

[vtl]

What is the reason for removing some oil after topping it up? And what happens if you just fill it to dribbling out?

The excess will leak out through seal.