2007 S60 2.5T Serpentine Belt & Tensioner Topic is solved

[cn90]

Conti is OE.
Exactly the same as factory.

[MoVolvos]

- This is why every 110K miles, I replace the TB + its pulleys x 2, but also:
- Drive belt (Conti only) + the pulley posted above.
- The tensioner (with its torsion spring inside) lasts "forever", maybe 300K miles. This device rotates back and forth a tiny bit (about 1 mm etc) to accommodate the engine crank rotational speed and acceleration/deceleration changes.

PS: the old belt + pulley go to the trunk as spare, just in case.

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Wow, 300K miles on the OE tensioner? Let's see if the Torx for the pulley can come off. Both will be in the trunk for now.
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[abscate]

My idler pulley on my RN engine failed after 30k miles and wiped out my new valve job. INA one, too.

[vtl]

My idler pulley on my RN engine failed after 30k miles and wiped out my new valve job. INA one, too.

INA is unbelievably flimsy recently. I'm running an old stubby idler now. Not sure it is the factory one, but still better than what you can get these days. Idler on B5254T12 was a complete catastrophe, replaced 3 of them within 49k miles and never felt alright.

[volvolugnut]

After a couple round trips on tensioners using improvised tools, I bought the Harbor Freight belt tensioner tool. Current model comes with 3 sockets and 3 crows foot wrenches. It has both 3/8 and 1/2 inch male socket connections and two piece adjustable angle lever. Handy for several jobs.
volvolugnut

[cn90]

- I used to mess around with home- made tool, but the serpentine belt tool is clearly superior, it makes the job 10 x easier. And it is only $18-$20.

- Re pulleys, gone are the days you can trust factory INA "made in Germany" thingy. It used to easily last some 100K miles.
After 100K miles, the grease dries out and makes noise. But that is normal for any pulleys.

Currently per FCP website for Pulley 8627994...
* INA (Germany)...~ $8
* Febi (China)...~ $16
* Gates (China)...~ $28

Given what is going on in this world, and to prevent catastrophic engine damage, I'd check the pulley every 30K by removing the belt, spin the pulley and check for play.
It is a 5-10 min job.
Better than fixing engine valve.

*** Whatever you do, during reinstallation of the belt, use a flash light to check to be sure it sits properly on all pulleys!

We are lucky the TB kit (Conti) still has good QC...

[cn90]

Actually, the grease dries out even after 30K miles!
I wrote the info on how to grease the pulleys for my 1998 BMW 528i here...I did that in 2011, and 15 years later, the pulleys are still OK.

These pulleys are small and spins so fast with little grease.
So it makes sense to grease it every 30-40K, but who does it?

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/diy- ... ys.555526/

[MoVolvos]

My idler pulley on my RN engine failed after 30k miles and wiped out my new valve job. INA one, too.

INA is unbelievably flimsy recently. I'm running an old stubby idler now. Not sure it is the factory one, but still better than what you can get these days. Idler on B5254T12 was a complete catastrophe, replaced 3 of them within 49k miles and never felt alright.

.
What is a stubby idler pulley? Link or photo?
.

- I used to mess around with home- made tool, but the serpentine belt tool is clearly superior, it makes the job 10 x easier. And it is only $18-$20.

- Re pulleys, gone are the days you can trust factory INA "made in Germany" thingy. It used to easily last some 100K miles.
After 100K miles, the grease dries out and makes noise. But that is normal for any pulleys.

Currently per FCP website for Pulley 8627994...
* INA (Germany)...~ $8
* Febi (China)...~ $16
* Gates (China)...~ $28

Given what is going on in this world, and to prevent catastrophic engine damage, I'd check the pulley every 30K by removing the belt, spin the pulley and check for play.
It is a 5-10 min job.
Better than fixing engine valve.

*** Whatever you do, during reinstallation of the belt, use a flash light to check to be sure it sits properly on all pulleys!

We are lucky the TB kit (Conti) still has good QC...

.
I didn't even check FCP's pricing but it's reasonable.
.

After a couple round trips on tensioners using improvised tools, I bought the Harbor Freight belt tensioner tool. Current model comes with 3 sockets and 3 crows foot wrenches. It has both 3/8 and 1/2 inch male socket connections and two piece adjustable angle lever. Handy for several jobs.
volvolugnut

.
Do mean alternator or tensioner pulley tool? The tensioner pulley is T50 while the tension adjustment is T60 or H3/8 Hex. The alternator pulley take two tools to removes.
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/altern ... t-cta-8089
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... vo-9512849
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[vtl]

What is a stubby idler pulley? Link or photo?

Ye olde Volvo idler. Factory or the one replaced more than ~10 years ago, when the replacement was still good. I just change pulley these days. May start just regreasing the bearing preventative when I retire and have time for that

[MoVolvos]

Actually, the grease dries out even after 30K miles!
I wrote the info on how to grease the pulleys for my 1998 BMW 528i here...I did that in 2011, and 15 years later, the pulleys are still OK.

These pulleys are small and spins so fast with little grease.
So it makes sense to grease it every 30-40K, but who does it?

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/diy- ... ys.555526/

.
I pulled the cover on the new pulley and the grease is opaque like silicone grease. Going to open it again and remove that before re-greasing it with the Lucas Red Tacky. The Red Tacky kept the 03 Odyssey's serpentine pulley going for 2 years. Started making a fuss 2 years prior to the Red Tacky and just used anything I had available.
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https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10005- ... 802&sr=8-2
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