We always appreciate when members take the time to close out the issue as it is a great help for others trying to diagnose these issues.
Thanks,
Neil.
Brand new battery indicating to ‘replace’ 2 days, Car goes haywire when trying to crank. 1998 C70.
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scot850
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Re: Brand new battery indicating to ‘replace’ 2 days, Car goes haywire when trying to crank. 1998 C70.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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volvolugnut
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Note to future people who find this thread: Simple check to voltage at battery while engine running will often indicate if you have a bad charging system. You need to have about 13.5- 14 volts if charging.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
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abscate
- MVS Moderator
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Usually this battery drain is caused by diodes in the alternator that have shorted to low ohms, the battery just runs current through them until they are dead. You can diagnose this but playing with unfused , high current stuff isn’t electrical 101 - you can start a fire and/or hurt yourself doing this
You can safely symptom diagnose by removing the hot cable from the alternator amd seeing if that stops the drain.
That means…
Charge battery
Disconnect negative terminal
Disconnect positive at alternator. Cover with heavy rag and tape
Reconnect negative
Leave overnight.
If you are battery drain stops, voila.
You can safely symptom diagnose by removing the hot cable from the alternator amd seeing if that stops the drain.
That means…
Charge battery
Disconnect negative terminal
Disconnect positive at alternator. Cover with heavy rag and tape
Reconnect negative
Leave overnight.
If you are battery drain stops, voila.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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Hoser99
- Posts: 4
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- Year and Model: 2000 c70
- Location: vancouver
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Touch with your finger - the positive battery post where it connects to the red plastic sheaved cable leading to the starter.
If its hotter than everything else around it the copper wire has gone bad where it joins the positive battery cable. This is causing high resistance and the cable will get hot. - this can also cause some oddball faults too. - when cranking the ( uses lots of power ) voltage drops so low that many of the other sensors are below their reference voltage and they main computer thinks they’ve all gone off-line at the same time. “ car goes haywire while cranking “
you can fix temporarily - remove the cable clamp at bottom of battery to create some slack. Cut a few centimetres off the end of the cable until you see bright copper coloured wire and reattach it to a new aftermarket battery post - like one from PICO.
when working properly the post wont be hot, it will be same temp as things around it after a short drive.
Good luck
If its hotter than everything else around it the copper wire has gone bad where it joins the positive battery cable. This is causing high resistance and the cable will get hot. - this can also cause some oddball faults too. - when cranking the ( uses lots of power ) voltage drops so low that many of the other sensors are below their reference voltage and they main computer thinks they’ve all gone off-line at the same time. “ car goes haywire while cranking “
you can fix temporarily - remove the cable clamp at bottom of battery to create some slack. Cut a few centimetres off the end of the cable until you see bright copper coloured wire and reattach it to a new aftermarket battery post - like one from PICO.
when working properly the post wont be hot, it will be same temp as things around it after a short drive.
Good luck
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