1985 Volvo 240 - No Fuel

xenoxus · Post by **xenoxus** » 12 May 2010, 00:14

This is going to be a long one.

A couple of weeks ago my friend's father decided to get rid of his 85' 244 DL. He gave it to me in exchange for loading it on my trailer and hauling it away. It was left parked in a field for 6 years after it left my buddy stranded 100 miles from home. He had the bright idea of running the car on straight ethanol. He did so for about 6 weeks before problems started popping up all over the place. The car is in terrible shape in every way possible. Needless to say the engine didn't fire, no matter how many fingers I crossed. There was plenty of spark and zero fuel pressure. So, I started my repairs with the fuel pumps, neither of which were running. I pulled both pumps and the fuel level sending unit. The transfer pump and the sending unit were completely covered in extremely heavy corrosion. They looked as if they had been sitting on the ocean floor for six years. All rubber hoses were deteriorated or even disintegrated. I replaced the sending unit, transfer pump, main pump, strainer, fuel filter and all hoses. I was sure the engine would fire, but to my surprise it didn't. Neither of the new pumps were turning. I discovered that neither of the pumps were getting any current. I swapped the #4 and #6 fuses and replaced the LH system fuse and fuse holder. Still nothing. There is continuity between the pump connectors and the fuse panel. There is continuity between the fuse panel and the relay. The relay is getting 12 volts. With relay terminals 87/2 and 30 jumped, the pump connectors get zero volts, but when I crank the engine I get 1.5 mV on the multimeter. I've tested the ECU and it checks out, as does the relay. All ground points are relatively free of corrosion. I can't imagine the fuse panel is the problem as it's the most simplistic panel I've ever seen from an 80's vehicle. I'm not only stumped, I'm downright confused.

I'm afraid to even look at the injectors or the fuel pressure regulator.

Post by **billofdurham** » 12 May 2010, 15:05

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

Have you checked the EFI relay and fuse #13 which supplies its power. The attached shows the location of the EFI relay:

'85 EFI and FP relays.pdf: (256.15 KiB) Downloaded 1107 times

Bill.

xenoxus · Post by **xenoxus** » 12 May 2010, 15:29

This 85' 240DL has got an LH 2.2 EFI system, not a 2.0 as some other 85's did. There is only one relay for the the EFI system and both pumps. Actually, it is two relays housed in one unit. As far as I know, the EFI system is not fused on the main panel. The fuse for the main pump is #6 and the fuse for the transfer pump is #4 on the panel. There is a separate fuse holder for the EFI system on the left strut tower, next the ignition coil and power steering reservoir. I am not near the car at the moment but, if I recall correctly, fuse #13 is a tail light or fog light fuse.

However, this still does not explain why the pumps do not spin up when the relay terminals are jumped. Also, why is there there a small jump in voltage when the engine is cranking? Thanks for the quick response and please let me know if I am mistaken about any of this.

Post by **billofdurham** » 13 May 2010, 11:16

13 Instruments, Seat belt warning lights, Turn signals, Fuel injection system(relay), Constant Idle Speed (Turbo), Boost pressure gauge (Turbo), El. radiator cooling fan 8A

The above is from the '85 owner's manual and my other books say the same. #4 and #6 control the pumps but not the relay.

Bill.

xenoxus · Post by **xenoxus** » 13 May 2010, 15:04

Fuse #13 is fine. After going through the wiring diagrams I see that fuses #13 and #14 are bridged from #12. This originates at the ignition switch. I will check that as soon as I get home.

Are all older Volvo wiring diagrams this awful? Almost reminds of Lucas diagrams. The diagram for my 2003 S40 has a much better layout.

superbob · Post by **superbob** » 25 Mar 2011, 14:52

billofdurham wrote:
13 Instruments, Seat belt warning lights, Turn signals, Fuel injection system(relay), Constant Idle Speed (Turbo), Boost pressure gauge (Turbo), El. radiator cooling fan 8A
The above is from the '85 owner's manual and my other books say the same. #4 and #6 control the pumps but not the relay.

Bill.

So how do I check the pumps and the relay by bridging the contacts at the fuse panel? I am working on a 1985 244dl w/LH 2.2 FI and I've been searching the forum, but cannot find any specifics, and I'm weak on electrical. I don't want to hurt the ECU or anything. I too have working pumps and nothing at the fuel rail. When I reinstalled the pumps after checking them I had fuel and the car was running, but once it warmed up it bogged and died, and hasn't starrted since, and I am back to the no-fuel condition. I'm thinking it's the relay but I don't want to go probing around without info. Thanks.

Post by **billofdurham** » 26 Mar 2011, 13:14

I think you have misunderstood the "bridging" reference. Several of the fuses on your car are powered by a shared lead to reduce the number of wires entering the fuse box. Fuses 11, 12 and 13 are powered by one white/red lead.

Carefully check fuse 13 to see that it is working. If in doubt test it with an ohmmeter. Also check the contacts the fuse sits in as they are prone to oxidation.

If fuse 13 is OK you can run an easy test on the relay by putting your finger on top of it as you switch on the ignition and then turn the key to the crank position. Either when the key is moved to the "on" position or when the starter engages your fingers should feel a click. If not, remove the relay and inspect the connections. If corroded or overheated repair and reassemble with a new relay to recheck the operation, if the system is still not functioning properly proceed to next step.

Connect a test light or multi meter to earth (ground), usually a black lead. Turn the ignition key to the ''on' position, but leaving the engine off, and remove the relay. Using the other probe from the test light or meter test all terminal sockets in the relay connector, two out of the four should have power. If power only exists at one terminal or no power exists re-check related system fuses. If all related fuses are ok and you still have no power a wiring diagram from a car repair manual is needed to trace the wiring back to the power source to be repaired. If ok proceed to next step.

With the ignition key in the "off" position take a small piece of wire (14 to 20 gauge) and strip it on either end. Insert each end of the wire into the 87 and 30 relay block terminals and turn the ignition key to the "on" position. The relay is now bypassed so you should hear the pumps working.

You can find which of the terminals are 87 and 30 by looking at the underside of the relay or at the diagram printed on its side.

If the pump doesn't work when you bypass the relay post back for further tests before assuming the pumps are the culprits.

Bill.

superbob · Post by **superbob** » 27 Mar 2011, 16:45

Bill:

Thank you for your advice. I polished up the contacts on fuses 4, 6 and 13, and wound up putting in a new fuse on 13. 12V at all three fuses. There are only two components inside the relay itself, wound components, the capacitors I guess. The contact on the one closes while the key is in the start position and closes on the other during cranking. Everything about this Volvo relay looks shiny and new. There were two live terminal sockets in the relay connector, opposed to one another, with the key on, and one stays live at 12V with it off. I bridged terminals 87 and 30 and both pumps sounded like they were running, but when I disconnected the fuel line after the rail and pressure regulator - pumps still running - it was dry as a bone. This was where fuel came gushing out the only time I had the car running, which was after I cleaned up and reinstalled the sending unit and both pumps. Then, after idling like a sewing machine for about two minutes, and revving like a champ, it bogged down and died and the line has remained dry as a bone since.

Thank you again for your help, it is invaluable in our situation. Our girl got t-boned in her old car and needs a Volvo.

superbob · Post by **superbob** » 07 Apr 2011, 19:18

Well, gave up on that.

Mdfish97 · Post by **Mdfish97** » 15 Apr 2026, 15:09

Hello,
I am having the same problem. I bypassed the fuel pump relay and both pumps work and I get fuel but when I turn ignition off the pumps still run. I put in a brand new relay but have the same problem. Prior to this problem the car was running fine other than the mass airflow sensor went bad and I unplugged it. (Didn’t run perfect but got me home) drove it like that a couple days then this fuel pump problem came up. Replaced fuses 4 and 6. Will replace 13 after reading this forum but I did check all the fuses and they all looked fine. Any suggestions? I unplugged the battery thinking maybe the ecu started acting up because I unplugged the mass airflow senso but I’m just going off common sense and guesses.