DIY AC Clutch Replacement In Place

Post by **velorider** » 25 Apr 2026, 21:18

Today I installed the IPD aftermarket AC clutch without evacuating the refrigerant. The IPD clutch is significantly cheaper then the Volvo and has the advantage of not needing a puller to remove the clutch which is very useful when figuring out the correct shin stack. Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures but below are the steps. The steps assume some basic familiarity with the removal of certain components. If you are unfamiliar with the removal of certain component, there are plenty of tutorials online. Two 3D printed parts are needed to press on the new pulley.

I have 2005 T5 which has the same air intake as the R, which is different then the standard air intake. The removal of the air box may not be required to remove the radiator fan for cars with the standard air intake.

1. Remove the serpentine belt

2. Remove the turbo intercooler tube and rubber hose going into the intercooler.

3. Remove the air box.

4. Remove the radiator fan. Discount the fan electrical connector and the two bolts on each side of the fan to remove.

5. Tape a piece of cardboard over the radiator to protect the fins,

6. Unplug the AC coil electrical connector on the side of the AC unit.

7. Loosen the upper alternative bolt a few turn. The bolt is located just left of the power steering pulley at about 7 o'clock if looking from the passenger side at the power steering pulley.

8. Loosen and remove the 4 bolts holding on to the AC compressor.

9. You can now position the AC compressor so the pulley is facing up between the radiator and engine block.

10. Use an impact to remove the AC clutch bolt.

11. Install a AC clutch puller using 3 M5x40 bolt. You can rent these at the most auto part stores. Depending on the puller you might need to install the AC clutch bolt about 3 or 4 turn for the AC clutch puller having something to push against. Use an impact to tighten puller an extract the clutch.

: ac_clutch_puller.png (117.68 KiB) Viewed 347 times

12. Remove the c-clip holding on the AC pulley.

13. Use a 6" 2 arm puller to remove the AC pulley, about $23 on Amazon. Again tighten using an impact.

: puller.png (156.31 KiB) Viewed 347 times

14. Unscrew the 3 Philips holding the coil on.

15. Install the new coil

16. Using a large c-clamp and the 3d print "AC Pulley Press Part 1". Press the pulley until it bottoms out on the press. Then flip the press and continue pressing until the pulley bottoms out on the press. Then using "AC Pulley Press Part 2" press the pulley fully on. Technically you can use just Part 2, but using Part 1 helps ensure the pressing is square.

17. Install the c-clip to secure the pulley.

18. Shim and install the AC Clutch. Using feeler gauge to ensure the clutch is shimmed between 0.3mm and 0.6mm. The IPD clutch does not require a puller so just tighten the AC clutch bolt measure then loosen and re-shim.

18. Reinstall everything in reverse.

Here are the two STL files used for pressing on the new pulley. Print with 100% infill. Material probably doesn't matter, I used ASA because that what was loaded.

AC_Clutch_Press_Part_1.stl: (56.33 KiB) Downloaded 27 times

AC_Clutch_Press_Part_2.stl: (56.33 KiB) Downloaded 27 times

Good luck!!!

Post by **scot850** » 26 Apr 2026, 10:28

Awesome write up and thank you for taking the time to write this up and share! I guess the only thing to ask is did it all work? If it works as it should it is good to know that the IPD unit is a more affordable option.

Neil.

Post by **velorider** » 26 Apr 2026, 14:42

Please delete, duplicate post.

Post by **velorider** » 26 Apr 2026, 14:43

Too soon to tell long term durability but initial test are positive. Much more stable idle when clutch engages and AC blows cold like before. I'll report back in a few months regarding long term durability.

I also thought of an improvement to part 2 to not requiring to flip part 1 and makes centering part 2 easy. I'll update the design and update the STL

Post by **cn90** » 26 Apr 2026, 16:17

You probably have close to 180K or 200K miles...
This is the mileage when the pulley bearing goes out and who knows how long the compressor lasts.

I agree that you only fix what is broken.

However, if one has > 200K miles, it is probably better to get a new compressor (Nissens $280 vs Valeo which is NLA)...